How to Color Gray Hair (and Make It Last)
Reviewed by Jeremy TardoFact checked by Michelle Regalado
With age and wisdom comes gray hair. It's a natural process that goes along with the privilege of getting older, but that doesn't mean you have to embrace your silver strands just yet. If you'd rather cover them up, there are plenty of options. Whether you prefer a dye or a powder, or maybe you're looking for something temporary versus permanent, there's a solution that will feel right for you. Can't get to a salon? Not to worry. Covering your grays can be a DIY job, too. We spoke to hair experts Jennifer Sarchet and Bradley Leake to learn more about the best ways to conceal grays and prolong coverage.
Keep reading for their advice on how to dye your gray hair for a natural-looking result.
Meet the Expert
Jennifer Sarchet is a master colorist and educator at Spoke & Weal. She is based out of the salon's Flatiron location in NYC.
Bradley Leake is a celebrity hairstylist and Color Wow ambassador.
Identify Your Commitment Level
If you want to completely cover your gray hair—and not just disguise it temporarily—you'll have to go for permanent color. And that's a commitment, Sarchet says. Permanent color is a lengthy process. It takes time and requires you to lift (or lighten) your color. Your hair could end up with different tones, too; for example, the color at the end of your hair might not be the same as the color in the middle or at the roots. And if you stop the process of permanent color, it can present some issues with color consistency down the road.
If someone doesn't want to deal with the time and commitment of lifting their hair, Sarchet recommends semi-permanent color. "It has no ammonia in it, so it doesn't cover gray but rather blends gray, so it will almost stain the color." Instead of the hair growing out with a noticeable demarcation, a semi-permanent color will subtly fade.
Sarchet explains that balayage or highlights are also great ways to distract the eye from grays because the brightened tones will blend.
Prepare Your Hair for Color
Sarchet says that there are ways that people can prepare their hair to better absorb color. For example, she has started educating her clients on shower filters since hair is easily affected by the minerals in the water.
Water with a high mineral content can slow the bleaching process and cause the color to process incorrectly because it throws off the pH, she explains. Similar to how a Brita filter removes impurities from tap water, a shower filter will help reduce the minerals that get through your shower head.
Byrdie Tip
Apple cider vinegar can help restore the pH level of the scalp without stripping hair.
Choose Your Preferred Product
Permanent boxed dyes can be finicky for a few reasons. It's tough to predict how your hair will take to the formula, and thus, results can vary. It also complicates things for your colorist because salon-quality color is so different, and matching it to boxed dye is often complicated, explains Sarchet. But, since it is the most permanent option, we get it if you want to try it. You'll find more tips for day-of dyeing below.
As for a non-permanent color option, you can choose from application methods such as a touch applicator, spray, or powder. If you prefer a more targeted application, Garnier Express Retouch has a cushion applicator that makes blending easier. More into spraying away your grays? Go for L'Oreal Magic Root Cover-Up. Shake, spray, then brush. Powders are ideal for covering smaller areas. Try Clairol Root Touch-Up Concealing Powder. It's basically like an eye shadow (which will also work if you're in a pinch).
Each product will vary in how long they last. Some may wash out with your next shampoo, while others will stay put through a few washes. It may take some trial and error, but reading the box and instructions can be your best friend in figuring out which one is best for you.
Prep Your Area
Make sure you give yourself access to both natural and artificial light. Open your curtains and turn on the lights, as color can look different in artificial and natural light. Hair dye has the potential to stain surfaces, so cover your counters and floors with newspapers or paper towels for easy cleanup. Wear an old shirt you don't care about ruining, or order a stylist's cape from Amazon to protect your clothes from any bleeding dye. And don't forget to wear gloves when applying color.
Lastly, lay out your tools so you can easily pick them up. Be sure to keep a handheld mirror nearby, too, so you can check your progress in hard-to-see areas like the nape of your neck and the back of your head.
Consider Toner
When we think of gray hair, we often fail to recognize that there are many different shades. According to Leake, toner isn't one size fits all, but when used properly, it can help add dimension. For example, a light pale gray has a limited capacity to reflect light, so it can appear duller and more muted. "A [silver] toner in this scenario would provide a more silver tone with the illusion of many dimensions and a soft finish," he says.
Practice Your Application Technique and Perform a Patch Test
Whether you'll be using a spray or a brush applicator, it's always worth it to perform a test run of the product to see how it will apply. Test out your ability to target your grays on a paper towel first. This is your chance to adjust if the product comes out too drippy, and you'll be able to gauge the opacity of the color.
As Sarchet points out, at-home color results vary more than salon-quality results, so start small. And remember, color is often more visible once it dries, so if you need to start with one layer of product, it could be worth it to wait and check in after 24 hours to see if you have to go back in for round two.
Begin Coloring
According to Leake, there is no need to dye your entire head of hair. Maintain as much natural color as you can and only cover the noticeably gray areas, he says. Touch up your roots and any problem areas, then finish with an all-over gloss to seal.
As for how often you need to color your hair, that depends on your personal style and your hair. "If you're going for complete coverage, I recommend a simple root touch-up every four weeks," says Leake. "On the other hand, if you have more of a blended look with your grays existing among your highlights, then you'll likely be able to stretch the time between appointments."
Byrdie Tip
To ensure you’re getting an even amount of coverage, use a rattail comb to create the most precise part. This will ensure that color is deposited to the root and that it will be distributed evenly throughout your hair.
Blend, Blend, Blend
Leake says the most sustainable way to cover gray hair long term is to consider a blending plan. "When my brunette clients start getting gray around the face, instead of coloring the grays I recommend doing a face frame of highlights," she says. This allows the existing grays to simply blend in, and new grays can grow in more inconspicuously without an immediate trip to the salon.
Practice Good Aftercare
Gray hair is commonly brittle, so choosing the right products is key, especially if you're coloring your grays. Leake recommends combatting wiry grays with moisturizing serums, hydrating shampoo and conditioner, hair masks, and occasional treatments. Since gray hair is also dry, it's best to avoid heat when styling. If you must use hot tools, a good heat protectant is critical.