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WWD

Cormio RTW Spring 2023

Samantha Conti
2 min read

This was one frenetic show, with models accompanying toddlers, and in one case, a sleeping newborn, down the runway; a show space in a bohemian private home with a rabbit’s warren of rooms, and a collection of clothing that was both silly, and spectacular.

Jezabelle Cormio doesn’t take the conventional approach to shows. Her invitation arrived as a Polly Pocket Dollhouse, a toy with a tiny doll that kids in Italy love. She also tapped young children to accompany a diverse cast of adults down the runway, which was accessorized with strollers and carseats, courtesy of Bugaboo.

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The most charming moment in the show, which Cormio described as “an ode to the scattered madness of a modern and diverse family…calm and mayhem,” was when an infant appeared — fast asleep — in a small carseat that dangled from the arm of a model.

So much for the bright lights and big sounds of fashion.

The clothing had to compete hard with the whole mise-en-scène, and the clear winners were the knits, which Cormio, who made her name after being selected by Gucci to take part in GucciFest in 2020, showed on children and adults alike.

Her knits had puff sleeves and embroidery, and came in pastel candy colors such as lavender and primrose. The strapless, striped and star-print tops and dresses had more of a disco mood, and were equally upbeat and fun.

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The collection, which also included loosely corseted dresses, 18th-century-style culottes with ribbons at the knee, and teeny tiny ruffle skirts, were all inspired by fairy-tale dressing and Cormio’s desire to fuse the “pretend with real.”

There was too much going on here, and it was often overwhelming, but at least it didn’t put anyone to sleep, except for the youngest runway model.

Launch Gallery: Cormio RTW Spring 2023

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