The cruise destination Australians have been keeping to themselves
A writhing torrent of white water frothed and fizzed as we edged towards the gently shelving sides of Montgomery Reef, the 150-square-mile spectacle David Attenborough described as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”. The nose of the Zodiac nudged closer, our guide pumping the throttle to keep steady against a rush of whirling eddies and cascading waterfalls that emerged seemingly from nowhere as soon as the tide began to turn.
Like King Canute proving that no man is a match for the power of the sea, nothing can stand up to the strength of the tides in the remotest reaches of the Kimberley. This northwest Australian region has just become easier to explore, with the new “discovery yacht” Scenic Eclipse II spending its maiden season plying this rugged, red-rock coastline.
The difference between high and low tides here can be as much as 10 metres – it’s been likened to someone pulling the plug on the ocean, such is the drama of the rapid drop in water levels – leaving it to rush over the sides of the flat-topped reef like a series of mini-Niagaras surging forth and then being swallowed up by the ocean every morning and afternoon.
After spying the occasional periscope-like surfacing of a turtle’s head in the water or egrets picking out their prey atop the reef – one offering extra suspense by way of a sea snake trapped perilously in its bill – it was time to race the sunset back to the ship. The fading light cast a warm pink glow over its sleek superyacht curves as the sun dipped behind the reef, We got back on board feeling secretly smug that we’d been out later in the day than other guests – not only seeing the waterfalls at full strength but with a sneaky sunset as a bonus.
That was until later in the ship’s lounge bar, when it became clear that those first out in the Zodiacs were just as convinced they’d had the best of it, seeing the reef – known as Yowjab by the local Dambimangari people – go from being totally submerged to revealing a mass of trickling rivulets as the water level began to fall. Perhaps there’s no such thing as a bad time to experience the might and majesty of nature in the Kimberley.
Now is certainly a good time, however, as this remote region – one of the most sparsely populated in the world – has become the new darling of expedition cruising. The Arctic and Antarctica still reign supreme, but for those who like a sunnier sort of adventure, lines including Australian-owned Scenic, Seabourn and Ponant are sending their newest and most eco-friendly ships to this still-unspoilt corner of the continent. It’s an extreme environment even by expedition standards.
It comes with not only the highest tropical tides in the world, but also the oldest Aboriginal rock art (some at least 17,300 years old), some of the clearest night skies in the southern hemisphere and some of the country’s most abundant seabird species.
“We want to make you feel like tiny specks in this huge, beautiful landscape and connect you to the world’s oldest living culture,” said discovery team leader Alice Forrest on the journey from Darwin in the Northern Territory to Broome in Western Australia.
With nearly 1,200 miles of outback driving separating these two points, cruising is a far more comfortable way to see the Kimberley. Plus, the daily or even twice-daily trips by Zodiac mean getting to explore the coast up close, often along stretches that would be inaccessible by land. Better yet, with a team of marine biologists, geologists, ornithologists and historians leading activities, short hikes and Zodiac cruises become lessons in the area’s flora, fauna and unique cultural heritage, with ‘enrichment’ lectures back on board to add depth and context to the day’s sightings.
Regular cruisers will find plenty that’s familiar on this “all-veranda” ship, which launched last year and holds just 228 passengers at full capacity. There’s the onboard spa, the free-flowing drinks, a well-stocked whisky bar with 135 varieties and an array of restaurants. The sunny yacht club buffet on deck seven is best at breakfast and lunch, with three speciality restaurants (reservations required) and three arrive-and-dine affairs come dinner. Expect Italian, sushi and Asian-fusion, though the seven-course tasting menu at French restaurant Lumière was the winner with most guests.
But despite its glossy, monochrome décor and spacious butler-serviced suites, this is first and foremost an adventure ship – the packing list is more focused on hiking boots and sun-safe outdoor gear than ballgowns and black tie. It even comes equipped with GPS positioning to avoid dropping anchor on the ecologically sensitive seabed, plus two onboard helicopters for those all-important aerial views over Mitchell Falls and the one-of-a-kind Horizontal Falls.
In the latter, the power of the tides is such that rather than cascading down from a height, the water gushes forth through a pair of narrow openings in the sandstone, creating a mesmerising horizontal waterfall effect. With our trusty Zodiacs, we skimmed the whirling waters past the mouth of the falls to witness the surging waters, while a short-eared rock wallaby bounded along the rocks nearby.
While these much-photographed spots grab the glory, the peaceful surroundings in Talbot Bay offered more time to reflect with a glimpse into the very foundations of the Earth. With towering sandstone cliffs dating back more than 1.8 billion years – millennia before multi-cellular life even came into being – and forced to fold in on themselves, leaving concertina-like waves in the near-vertical rock faces that sheer into the waters below, it’s a rare example of the staggering force of nature, something that had become a recurring theme around every corner of the Kimberley.
In fact, it was these quieter moments – the crocodile drifting blithely by in the shallows of mighty King George River, the bright-red fiddler crabs darting behind the mangroves in Porosus Creek or the pair of chestnut-winged brahminy kites circling overhead during a sunrise outing – that really marked this territory out as something to behold.
When Captain Erwan Le Rouzic (a familiar face to fans of the documentary series Maritime Masters) addressed guests for his final farewell, he said: “The Kimberley is a secret Australians have been keeping for themselves, but when we get to travel here, we discover these very special places.” It might have been a secret up to now – but it won’t be for much longer.
Essentials
Scenic (scenic.co.uk) offers an 11-day cruise, Discover the Kimberley Coastline: An Ancient Wilderness, from Darwin to Broome, starting from ￡12,906 per person departing July 21 or August 10, 2025. The price includes flights, butler service, premium drinks and dining, and daily guided excursions.
Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) flies four times a day from Heathrow and, starting from June 22, five times a week from Gatwick to Singapore, with onward connections four times daily to Perth and daily to Darwin. Fares start from ￡1,132.