Deadheading spent blooms, fall planting and the Goldilocks of the garden

Is deadheading my flowers really necessary? Are there some that should not be deadheaded?

Deadheading annuals in most cases will lead to longer bloom time and encourage growth of the plant. Annuals such as cosmos, petunias, geraniums, marigolds, zinnias, and others benefit greatly from removing the fading blooms. The main reason for this lies in seed production, which tells the plant it has done its job (producing seeds for the next generation) and it can now stop blooming. Removing these blooms before seeds form encourages the plant to produce more flowers and promotes growth in general. Deadheading can be done one or two times a week.

Some perennials such as roses and daylilies also benefit from deadheading for the same reasons. Most perennials, such as coneflowers and daisies, will not produce more flowers but deadheading does encourage growth of the plant. Biennials, such as foxglove and hollyhocks, should not be deadheaded as they need to set seed for the next year. Some plants that produce little to no seed, such as fuschia and salvia, do not need to be deadheaded, except for appearance.

In general, besides allowing for more blooms, deadheading is good to do for appearances, the garden will look a bit tidier. Removing flowers before seeds form can also help slow the spread of some plants, if that is a problem. Deadheading, however, should not be done if you plan to save seed from your plants. Towards the end of the season, letting a few mature into seeds is fine.

Now that my garden is winding down in some areas, what can I plant in August for a fall garden?

There are many things that can be planted now and into September for a fall garden, basically whatever works in spring will also work in the cooling weather of fall. Some things that work well include carrots, spinach, turnips, beets, spinach, peas, broccoli (plants only), endive, Swiss chard, and lettuce. Lettuce is better planted later than the others, since it germinates and grows so quickly. In the earlier part of August, especially with higher temperatures, provide a bit of temporary shade with either a shade structure or by moving containers if possible.

The bottom leaves have been falling off my pepper plants for a couple of weeks, although they are producing peppers. Also, my green beans have been blooming but not producing beans. What is wrong and what can I do?

Peppers are rather picky when it come to temperature changes — rather like Goldilocks, they don't like it too hot or too cold. Providing a bit of shade with a shade cloth or similar structure would help drop the temperature around the plants a bit. If the leaves turn yellow and then drop, there may be low nitrogen in the soil. Adding a nitrogen-containing fertilizer or simply applying used coffee grounds around the plant might help as well.

As for the green beans, they cannot set blooms at higher temperatures, generally anything over 85 degrees will cause the blossoms to drop.

Readers can pose questions or get more information by calling 417-874-2963 and talking to one of the trained volunteers staffing the Mas-ter Gardener Hotline at the University of Missouri Exten-sion Center in Greene County located inside the Botanical Center, 2400 S. Scenic Ave., Springfield, MO 65807.

This article originally appeared on Springfield News-Leader: Ask the Master Gardener: Deadheading, fall gardens and pepper problems