What’s the Difference Between Squalene and Squalane? Experts Explain
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Fact checked by Anna HarrisReviewed by Julia A. Siegel, MD
Moisture is important for all skin types, even those that are combination or oil-prone. If you have oily skin and have been avoiding using moisturizer, take this as your sign to start slathering. But even if you're a moisturizer devotee, layering your favorite products in cold weather or dry environments can still feel like it isn't enough. That’s why you always need a powerhouse ingredient to deliver hydration and protect your skin. If you're serious about making sure your skin stays moisturized, and are also looking to repair your skin barrier, then squalane– not to be confused with squalene– is the ingredient that should be on your radar. (Yes, there's a difference.)
Read ahead as dermatologist, Jessica Weiser, and plastic surgeon, Paul Nassif, explain what squalane is, the difference between squalane and squalene (it's pretty important), and why squalane is a great skincare ingredient. Plus, some of our favorite skincare products that are packed with squalane.
Meet Our Expert
Dr. Jessica Weiser is a board-certified dermatologist and the Assistant Professor of Dermatology at Columbia University.
Dr. Paul Nassif is a board-certified facial plastic surgeon, and the founder of skincare brand, NassifMD Skincare.
What Is Squalene?
Squalene is a colorless poly-unsaturated hydrocarbon liquid that’s found naturally in many animals and plants, including human sebum. Essentially, it’s one of the many natural lipids your body produces to lubricate and protect your skin.
Squalene is estimated to make up about 10 to 12 percent of your skin’s oil and is incredibly important to your skin. Unfortunately, because of its efficacy, it's often harvested in unethical ways such as from a shark's liver—however, there are other sources. It can be, and is commonly, harvested from plant sources like olives, wheat germ oil, and rice bran. The ingredient comes in two forms: squalene and squalane. They're both equally effective, but squalane has a longer shelf life because it's more stable.
What Is Squalane?
Squalane is a derivative of squalene and is much lighter (and thus a better option for acne-prone skin). It also has a longer shelf life than squalene as it does not go through oxidization, which is why it's more commonly used in skincare.
"Squalene is a fatty molecule produced in sebum (skin oil) in the skin to support the skin barrier function. Squalene is hydrogenated to become squalane which is the active and more stable form found in skincare products," Dr. Weiser explains.
"Squalene isn't very stable on its own and will oxidize when exposed to air which strips it of its natural benefits. That's why it has to go through a saturation process so when it's added to skincare products it becomes squalane, which is a more shelf-stable version," Dr. Nassif says. "It's also important to note that squalane is a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum, making it a biocompatible ingredient that our skin recognizes."
What Does Squalane Do?
Squalane is used in skincare products as a highly-effective emollient and natural antioxidant. Historically, it's been used in the medical field to treat wounds and skin problems. Over time, using squalane in skincare can reduce scars, reverse UV damage, lighten freckles and erase skin pigmentation, all while fighting free radicals. On some people it can even be used as a spot treatment.
Who Should Use Squalane?
"Squalane is primarily useful for skin hydration and helping replete the skin’s protective barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss. This can be especially helpful in people with sensitive skin or eczema tendencies where the skin barrier is often depleted," Dr. Weiser explains.
People who frequently use exfoliants on their skin can also add squalane to their routine. "Squalane is an extremely versatile skincare ingredient that can be used as a component of many skincare products. It has minimal irritation potential and therefore can be layered over other skincare products such as retinol or chemical exfoliants (such as AHA or BHA)," Dr. Weiser adds.
Dr. Nassif says squalane is non-comedogenic, which makes it really good for people of all skin types. Even those who are breakout and irritation-prone.
The Best Products with Squalane
Celebrity facialist Joanna Vargas calls her Rescue Serum ($150) her "red-carpet cornerstone for glowing skin," and after trying it, we get why. It combines all the things you want in a serum—vitamin C, moisturizing squalane, fatty acids, and antioxidants—and none of the stuff you don't, as every product is vegan and cruelty-free. And don't forget about your under eyes– Tatcha's Luminous Deep Hydration Firming Eye Serum ($88) uses squalane, but the real hero of the product is red algae extract—it both restores and hydrates the skin around your eyes, according to the brand, which can feel life-saving after a long night.
Because squalane is such a hydrating ingredient, it makes sense that it would be included in an overnight mask like Youth to the People's Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Mask ($52). Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are meant to help round out the hydrating effects, and a stable form of vitamin C promises to let you wake up with glowing happy-looking skin.
Looking for a body lotion that is non-tacky but still does what it promises? Kiehl's Creme de Corps ($34) has been a top seller since the 1980s, and it's full of hydrating, skin-loving ingredients like squalane, beta-carotene, shea butter, and sesame oil.
There's makeup with squalane in it, too. Like BareMinerals' Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream ($37). Unlike other tinted moisturizers that aren't, well, moisturizing enough—particularly if they have SPF, this one is packed with the perfect mixture of hydration, SPF, and coverage to give your face a natural-looking, even glow. Thanks, squalane!
Frequently Asked Questions
Is squalane sustainable?
Plant-based squalane is sustainable, but squalene is also commonly derived from shark livers (which is cheaper than the plant-based alternative). To find out if a product's squalane is ethically sourced, look for a Shark-Free Seal created by the Shark Allies.
"Squalane was originally sourced from animals (sharks specifically) but has transitioned, largely due to environmental concerns, to plant sources including olives, rice, and sugarcane to name a few," Dr. Weiser adds.
Can you use squalane on your lips?
Yes. Thanks to squalane's moisturizing properties, it works well at treating dry, chapped lips. You can apply squalane oil directly to your lips or use lip products that contain the ingredient.
Is squalane a retinol?
No, squalane is not a retinol. However, squalane works well with retinol and certain products may contain both squalane and retinol. For example, The Ordinary offers products with 0.2 percent, 0.5 percent, and 1 percent retinol in squalane.
Up Next: Squalane Oil Can Be a Valuable Addition to Your Haircare Routine—This Is Why
Read the original article on Byrdie.