Dior’s Japanese Café, Chanel’s Arts and Crafts, Moncler’s Sustainability Win
DIOR LADY CHEF: Dior has entered a long-term partnership with Anne-Sophie Pic, the most Michelin-starred female chef in the world, starting with a first café in Japan.
“This unique encounter between two realms of excellence, both quintessential celebrations of French art de vivre, will evolve over the seasons, years and projects to come,” the brand said in a statement on Monday.
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Pic will helm a new Monsieur Dior restaurant set to open in Osaka in 2025, Dior said. In the meantime, travelers at Kansai International Airport near Osaka can sample a selection of the chef’s cakes and pastries inspired by the archives of founder Christian Dior.
Decorated in signature motifs such as cannage, houndstooth, leopard motifs and toile de Jouy, the sweet treats went on sale on Friday at the first Café Dior by Anne-Sophie Pic next to the new Dior boutique at Terminal 2.
“Christian Dior is unquestionably the couturier of the feminine ideal. He sublimates women through the curved lines of his unique creations. As a female chef, this sensibility moves me and I am proud to celebrate French elegance and savoir-faire through this alliance,” Pic said in a statement.
It marks the latest restaurant venture for Dior, which has a Monsieur Dior restaurant run by French chef Jean Imbert at its historic flagship in Paris, in addition to Café Dior venues in the U.S. and Asia.
Pic, who holds 10 Michelin stars, has nine restaurants across the world, including the three Michelin-star Restaurant Pic in Valence, France, and La Dame de Pic restaurants in Paris and Megève, France; London; Singapore, and Dubai. — JOELLE DIDERICH
WORKING HANDS: The Victoria Baths in Manchester, an architectural gem adorned with colorful Art Nouveau tiles and stained glass, was alive with the spirit of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel on Friday as guests from the Metiers d’Art show immersed themselves in her universe of art and craft.
Guests gathered at the Baths for a discussion about the challenges facing women writers, and an exhibition of art, design and photography. There was also an interactive display inviting Chanel guests to pick up their needles, sew and embellish fabrics with help from the various craft teams at the brand.
Who knew that so many Chanel clients could wield those needles with such skill? Or sit quietly at a worktable picking out images of the Manchester skyline with hundreds of tiny beads and sequins?
As luxury experiences go, it was unconventional one, but very much in keeping with the spirit of the house’s founder, who was famous for wearing ropes of pearls — and scissors hanging from a ribbon around her neck.
In a nearby room, a lively talk called “The Power of Literature” was taking place with Manchester native and award-winning writer Jeannette Winterson; actress Kristen Stewart, and Charlotte Casiraghi, a Chanel ambassador.
The talk tapped into Coco Chanel’s past as a voracious reader and friend of writers including Jean Cocteau, Colette and Paul Morand.
Stewart talked about directing her first film, “The Chronology of Water,” which is based on the memoir by Lidia Yuknavitch, while Winterson praised the power of language.
Winterson recalled her love of poems, novels and the spoken word as a child growing up in a strict, religious home.
She told the audience that, when she was a teenager, her mother burned the stacks of books she had hidden under her bed. She describes that episode in her novel “Oranges Are Not the Only Fruit,” an extract of which Casiraghi read to the audience.
Winterson said she relied on words, stories she’d memorized, and the power of her own imagination to overcome her traumatic childhood. “Language can sustain us, and take us forward into all sorts of places. Words are my flying carpet,” she said. — SAMANTHA CONTI
FIVE TIMES RUNNING: Moncler Group continues to prove it is serious about its sustainability initiatives, efforts and goals.
For the fifth consecutive year, the group topped the S&P Global Corporate Sustainability Assessment in the “Textile, Apparel & Luxury Goods” sector in the Dow Jones Sustainability Indices World and Europe with the highest score: 89/100.
“Every day, at Moncler and Stone Island, we work to continue integrating sustainability into our business model. We do it with passion, ingenuity, humility and necessary concreteness. We do it with the sense of urgency that environmental and social challenges require,” said the group’s chairman and chief executive officer, Remo Ruffini. “We are on a transformational journey which requires significant changes in the way we work. This collective, transversal path involves those who work within the company as well as those who collaborate with us across the value chain.”
While Ruffini admitted “pride in this achievement, we are aware much remains to be done. We do this out of our firm belief that economic results are important, but so is the way in which they are achieved,” he concluded.
The Dow Jones Sustainability Index ranks the leading sustainability-driven companies based on economic, environmental and social responsibility criteria, which are analyzed by top credit ratings provider S&P Global.
Every year the group reports on its sustainability performances and targets in its consolidated nonfinancial statement. In 2020, Moncler presented its strategic sustainability plan until 2025, “Born to Protect,” which focuses on five strategic drivers: climate action, circular economy, fair sourcing, enhancing diversity and giving back to local communities.
As part of the eco-road map, Moncler is committed to reach net zero emissions by 2050; recycling nylon manufacturing scraps at group sites and across the supply chain; the use in the collections of 50 percent of yarns and fabrics from lower-impact materials by 2025 (recycled, organic or from regenerative agriculture, or certified following specific standards); the traceability of raw materials, and obtaining the Equal Pay certification, among others.
To date, the group lists achievements including the use of around 90 percent of electricity at its directly operated corporate sites worldwide from renewable sources in 2022, estimating to reach 100 percent by the end of 2023; carbon neutrality maintained at its own directly operated corporate sites (production sites, offices, logistic hub and stores) from 2021; 100 percent of nylon scraps from own direct sites recycled; progressive integration in collections of yarns and fabrics from lower-impact materials with the goal of reaching 50 percent by 2025, and almost all single-use virgin plastic eliminated, among others. At the group, 69 percent of employees were women and 51 percent were women in management in 2022. It has also helped protect from the 108,000 people most in need over the last six years, and it estimated it has helped around 140,000 in the 2017 to 2023 period. — LUISA ZARGANI
TOKYO TIME: Jimmy Choo’s oyster-hued shoe boxes have come to life in Tokyo’s Ginza.
The luxury brand has teamed with Harry Nuriev, the founder and creative director of interior architecture and design firm Crosby Studios, to work on Choo’s largest store in Japan and fourth-biggest globally.
The store will opened Saturday and has more than 3,200 square feet and two floors. The interior takes cues from the brand’s pop-up on Avenue Montaigne in Paris, with the open design floor.
The second floor is dedicated to Jimmy Choo’s men’s offerings with a double-height staircase and a denim blue room that’s meant to resemble a secret stock room with a 200-foot sofa that fits the boxed room.
“I am so excited to be working with Harry again, bringing his artistry for invigorating and elevating the unexpected in one of my favorite cities. The space he has created for Ginza is the epitome of the beauty of simplicity. He has an art for distilling the brand essence to its purest form, playing with the utilitarian to create a glamorous and immersive experience,” said Sandra Choi, creative director of the brand.
Nuriev’s approach to the store was to turn the “back of house into a luxury retail store, paying homage to the minimalist design principles of Ginza.”
The Ginza store will also stock women’s shoes, handbags, eyewear, small leather goods, soft accessories, fragrance and a special selection of pieces from the brand’s bridal collection.
To celebrate the store opening, an exclusive capsule has been created featuring the Bon Bon handbags and the Ixia 95 heeled pumps in black satin embellished with gilded orchids.
Jimmy Choo’s made-to-order service will be available at the store, allowing incoming customers to create their own shoe or handbag. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
MIAMI MADE TO ORDER: As Art Basel officially got underway in Miami on Friday, the just-unveiled Hilos Studio footwear platform geared up to launch at the event with a new proposition and a new partnership. According to the company, the 3D printing platform allows anyone from brands to independent designers to offer on-demand shoes, and fashion house Unknown Union signed on with Hilos as the first to take it up.
In a statement, Hilos claimed that it built “the first high-mix, low-volume supply chain for on-demand footwear,” and that allows greater flexibility for a wide selection of smaller runs, so they can adapt to changes in the market. In doing so, the company created a platform that significantly expands its product purview from women’s fashion footwear to anything ranging from technical outdoor to luxury.
Studio launched at Art Basel with a luxury sandal designed by Unknown Union.
“We stand at a turning point in our industry where we have the chance to change the way we make [product],” Elias Stahl, Hilos’ chief executive officer and cofounder, told WWD. “Hilos Studio unleashes the independent brand or designer to make stunning 3D-printed shoes on-demand without inventory or waste.”
Sustainability has always been one of the strongest arguments for 3D printing, because of on-demand manufacturing’s potential to reduce waste. In its statement, Hilos pointed out that 24 billion shoes are produced every year, and one in five of them ends up in landfills. Addressing that issue, however, shouldn’t have to involve compromising the footwear or its artistry. That’s where 3D printing comes in, because it allows for customization — even “intricate and complex designs that traditional methods struggle to achieve,” as the statement put it.
Hilos outlined notable support from influential figures from footwear and fashion’s executive suite.
This year, long-time adviser Jonathan Cheung, the former head of design and innovation at Levi’s, was joined by Eric Sprunk, former Nike chief operating officer and new Hilos board member, as well as Greg Bui, also an ex-Nike executive, and James Carnes, who hails from Adidas. Creative directors bring experience from Rapha, Allbirds and Arcteryx, while the Vanguard Group’s former chief brand officer leads market strategy. — ADRIANA LEE
CHRISTMAS IN CULVER CITY: The Golf le Fleur pop-up has traveled to Culver City, Calif., opening Saturday for 12 days. This time, it’s open to the public.
“The 12 days of Christmas,” said Tyler, the Creator when asked about the timing.
“I wanted to do something in the city,” the rapper and producer continued, of the location. “And everywhere else in the city is kind of dead. And I figured, well, why not try something over here. So, yeah, that’s kind of how it was. It wasn’t as deep a thought or anything. Just, Fairfax, La Brea, Hollywood, everything is just not where I wanted this. So that seemed like the best bet. And like a clean slate. There’s nothing else over there. There’s no one else over there. And I like that.”
The previous pop-up was in Malibu and by invite only, unveiled in 2021. He plans to take it to different cities.
“It’s pretty much the same thing,” he said of the experience. Visitors can expect his latest collections in apparel, footwear, accessories and beauty.
“The public is able to see this and experience this stuff in person,” he added.
Selective about retailers, the brand is found at Mohawk General Store in L.A. and Heath Newsstand in San Francisco — which meet his standards.
“Retail is s–t,” he said. “I probably shouldn’t say that. But, like, everyone knows retail is s–t. Retail is s–t because it’s not the same care that you put into the brand taken there.…It’s just not presented correctly.”
Golf le Fleur is Tyler, the Creator’s third fashion project. He released goods under Odd Future (his music collective before going solo) and Golf Wang (the skate-inspired label launched in 2013). Standing on its own, Golf le Fleur is high-end and has featured collaborations with Lacoste and Schott NYC. His signatures have been round collar short-sleeve button-ups, tailored blazers and trousers, pleated shorts, mohair cardigans and loafers — typically in a pastel colored palette.
There are more collaborations coming, he said: “I collab with the people who make shit that I like and I’m like, able to put my own twist on it.”
The creative — born Tyler Gregory Okonma — has produced short films alongside Golf le Fleur releases. For this new pop-up, his latest film showcases his most recent collection.
“It was a bus accident,” he said of the concept. “And it’s a cop just taking all statements from witnesses. And yeah, all the witnesses that were on the bus.”
Blazers, hoodies and bags are modeled by the witnesses, which include rapper Lil Yachty and business man Maverick Carter.
“I think Yachty’s beautiful,” said Tyler, the Creator. “Like, I think he has a very gorgeous face with gorgeous features. And I like how he dresses, how clothes fit on him. And Maverick is one of the coolest people to me. Like the fact that he even did it meant a lot. I wanted to put him in a whimsical look, because he has a super specific personality so to see him in something that looks like that was just super ill eye candy for me.”
The lineup of looks is a reflection of his taste, he added. “Everyone kind of looks like different versions of me.” He designs for himself. “I’m just selfishly make clothes that I want to wear.”
Asked about growth, he said: “I don’t even have expectations. I hope people that buy it like the s–t. And I hope it continues to get seen by eyes who aren’t in my bubble. That’s just my main thing. I just hope people outside of my bubble get to see the things that are being made.” — RYMA CHIKHOUNE
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