Dior’s Spanish Turn, Changes at Zegna, Hair Couture For Sale in Paris
OLé: Dior tapped photographer Laura Sciacovelli to showcase its cruise 2023 collection in a print campaign launching Saturday. Through a hazy light, models pose against the columns and ornately tiled interiors of a Sevillian palace, highlighting Maria Grazia Chiuri’s chosen Andalusian theme for the collection.
“The looks embody the passionate dialogue between the excellence of Dior’s ateliers and the wealth of Andalusian craftsmanship,” the brand stated.
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Looks featuring layers of taffeta and lace are mixed with sportswear and equestrian references that nod to dancer Carmen Amaya, who revolutionized flamenco in the 1950s by performing in men’s clothes. Known as La Capitana, Amaya was a key inspiration for Chiuri’s collection, which was unveiled in Seville in June.
The campaign images showcase Dior classics like the Lady Dior bag and the Bar jacket, seen in ornately embroidered versions, while the Saddle bag features a traditional Andalusian leatherwork technique used in saddlery. Other Spanish symbols include shawls, mantilla veils and gloves, as well as lace fans featuring the brand’s signature.
With art direction for the campaign from Fabien Baron, models Maryel Uchida, Chai Maximus, Yunseo Cho, Freja Rothmann, Greta Bultmann, Miriam Sanchez, Eden Joi and Raynara Negrine were styled by Elin Svahn, with makeup from Peter Philips and hair by Guido. — ALEX WYNNE
ZEGNA CHANGES: Edoardo Zegna, chief marketing, digital and sustainability officer of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, said Thursday that Domenico Galluccio, the group’s public relations and communication director, is exiting the company to pursue a new opportunity. His last day with Zegna will be Friday.
Zegna thanked Galluccio, who contributed to the development of the group’s communication strategy through a pivotal moment of change that included a rebranding and a public listing in New York in December.
Galluccio joined Zegna in June 2019 from Moncler, where he was previously director of worldwide PR and media. During his 11-year tenure, he saw Moncler publicly list in 2013 on the Italian Stock Exchange and launch the Moncler Genius project in 2018.
At Zegna, Galluccio’s former responsibilities will be assigned to Francesca Di Pasquantonio, director of investor relations, who will be in charge of group and corporate communication, and Valentina Abbà. She will join on Oct. 10 and take over as Zegna brand PR and communication director, working directly with Edoardo Zegna.
This is a return to Zegna for Abbà, who joined the menswear brand in 2013 before leaving for a stint at Ferragamo as global PR director last year. — LUISA ZARGANI
HAUTE COIFFURE: For artist Charlie Le Mindu, having 21 of his hair creations go under the hammer at Artcurial in Paris on Oct. 5 is bittersweet.
“In general, I have very mixed emotions, because I’m separating myself from things that I love,” said Le Mindu, at the vernissage of the exhibition of his work that was held at the Right Bank auction house Wednesday night. “But you know, as I’ve said before, it’s good because I need new things, and I have more than 200 archives in my place in Brooklyn. I need to be away from them now.”
Le Mindu had people from Artcurial choose which works would be included in the auction that will take place both in person and online, starting at 5 p.m. CET. But, of course, he helped make the selection, to make sure everything fit together.
Among the key pieces Le Mindu loves that are being auctioned off are two full-body hair sculptures, called “Lion’s Manes,” which were inspired by a mushroom found in the northern hemisphere. They’re estimated to sell for 180,000 euros to 200,000 euros.
“It’s my favorite, because they’ve been in so many things, and I love wearing them myself. It’s the only thing I made that I can wear,” Le Mindu laughed.
Another favorite is the fluorescent, jellyfish-like creation, entitled “Fluorescent Species,” that’s to be worn over someone’s head. The estimate for that ranges from 11,000 euros to 12,000 euros.
In the show catalogue, curator Beno?t Coffin calls Le Mindu, the artist behind the concept of Haute Coiffure, a “visionary.”
“The work of Charlie is in constant motion, and can only be understood through the idea of a trajectory, one which began its travel at the beginning of the 2000s,” Coffin wrote. “From ‘Blonde Lips’ and the costumes worn by Lady Gaga to the famous ‘Lion’s Manes,’ each piece in this event-sale is a masterpiece of virtuosity and creativity.”
Le Mindu, indeed, never stops. Aside from gearing up for the auction, he’s currently working on a ballet in Monaco and the upcoming Vivienne Westwood and Kayne West shows during the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. A bit further down the road are a ballet in Berlin and a cabaret in Miami, Florida. — JENNIFER WEIL
ROKSANDA’S TURN: Art is always at the center of every collection Roksanda Ilin?i? produces.
The brand will be scheduling its spring 2023 collection during Frieze week on Oct. 11 at the Serpentine Gallery in Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park — the same day as the Alexander McQueen show in London, which, according to inside sources, will take place in Greenwich, southeast London with two shows, one slotted at 1 p.m. local time and the other at 5 p.m.
This is Ilin?i?’s first time showing outside of the official London Fashion Week schedule. She called off her London show that was planned for Sept. 19 in respect to the death of Queen Elizabeth II.
“Art has always been an important part of my design process, it is the inspiration that would start and finish all of my collections. This natural affinity has led to many wonderful and very special collaborations with artists such as Eva Rothschild, Rana Begum, Studio Troika to name a few,” Ilin?i? told WWD.
Belgian fashion designer Raf Simons will also be showing his spring 2023 collection at Frieze after canceling his London fashion show debut.
“I also truly believe in creating a platform for young female artists and my Art Narratives, alongside my Mount Street store [are] dedicated to this cause. Showcasing my collection during Frieze Art Fair, although not originally planned, came as a very exciting possibility and I am so humbled to be able to share the calendar,” she said.
Ilin?i? calls the Serpentine a home away from home for her.
“It’s a community where I have discovered so many artists, architects and creators but above all, where I had the pleasure to meet many of my now good friends,” she said. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
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