Does Fashion Support LGBTQIA+ Artists More Than the Music Industry They Helped Build?
LGBTQIA+ artists are, undoubtedly, the backbone of the music industry. So why is it slow to give them the recognition they deserve?
In 1981, Queen — led by the legendary Freddie Mercury — made history by shattering concert attendance records at S?o Paulo’s Morumbi Stadium, becoming the first band to perform in South American stadiums.
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Fast-forward to 2012, “American Idol” season eight runner-up Adam Lambert made waves with his album “Trespassing,” which became the first solo album by an openly gay artist to top the Billboard 200 chart.
By 2019, rapper Lil Nas X’s song “Old Town Road” made history of its own, spending 19 weeks at number one on the Billboard Hot 100, marking the longest run at the top in the chart’s history.
Then, in 2022, Elton John’s “Farewell Yellow Brick Road” tour made Billboard Boxscore history becoming the highest-grossing tour of all time, earning more than $817 million across 278 shows — surpassing Ed Sheeran’s “Divide” tour.
And just this year, the “Sweat” tour, headlined by British avant-pop star Charli XCX and Australian heartthrob Troye Sivan, also set records grossing around $28 million and selling more than 97 percent of its tickets — according to Billboard — further solidifying Charli XCX and Sivan as two of 2024’s hottest names in pop music.
However, despite these game-changing achievements, one question remains: Why do icons like John and Sivan not receive the same level of fandom as Taylor Swift’s “Swifties” or Beyoncé’s “Beyhive?”
Well, according to Jimmy Philémond-Montout, general manager at Diversité Artistique Montréal — an organization created to promote the presence of artists and artistic organizations of cultural diversity — it’s not a matter of talent, but a combination of the aforementioned industry forces, public perception and marketability.
“[LGBTQIA+] artists often have to fight against societal expectations, long-standing biases and industry pressures that cisgendered artists don’t face. Even the public itself has often had a different view of queer artists; their careers are frequently framed within the boundaries of representation, rather than seen as universal pop stars,” Philémond-Montout said. “In many ways, these artists are seen as the exception rather than the rule. It’s critical to recognize that queer talent is just as capable of tapping into broad markets as any of their straight counterparts — it’s just that these forces of perception, access and systemic biases haven’t allowed for a true, equal platform.”
These perceptions — shaped by long-standing biases and societal expectations — are also reflected in the way fan cultures form around artists, Philémond-Montout said. One of the most notable of these fan-driven phenomena is stan culture, which thrives on obsessive devotion to a celebrity, often dictating both an artist’s visibility and public image. However, while stan culture can provide immense support, it’s more complicated for LGBTQIA+ artists.
In fact, stan culture typically favors artists with broad, mainstream appeal — like Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj or Ariana Grande — whose fan bases align seamlessly with global markets. In contrast, LGBTQIA+ icons like Sivan or Lil Nas X, despite their chart-topping success, often find their fandoms more niche, primarily within the LGBTQIA+ community. This creates a divide, as Philémond-Montout explains, where the fandoms of LGBTQIA+ artists may lack the expansive reach of their heterosexual counterparts.
“While their fans are passionate and deeply committed, these artists are still often seen by mainstream audiences as ‘niche,’ limiting their broader marketability,” he added. “In an industry where pop icons typically rise on the strength of fan-driven, mass appeal queer artists continue to struggle for the kind of widespread recognition their talent truly deserves.”
One prime example of this phenomenon is Kim Petras, whose artistry and trailblazing role as a trans pop star should have positioned her as a defining figure in the zeitgeist. Yet, she still faces a level of resistance that her counterparts — straight and cisgender — don’t encounter, Philémond-Montout added.
“The hesitance to fully embrace these artists at the same scale as icons like Swift or Beyoncé might come down to the very nature of the industry: Pop culture is often driven by a certain level of risk aversion when it comes to branding and marketability,” he added. “LGBTQIA+ artists, especially those at the forefront of challenging gender norms, face an additional challenge in breaking through that final barrier of global superstardom.”
Although LGBTQIA+ artists haven’t always received full support from the music industry, icons like Mariah Carey, Madonna, Gaga, Beyoncé, Charli XCX and Grande — to name a few — have spent much of their careers advocating for the LGBTQIA+ community. Through their activism, they’ve fostered a sense of belonging and confidence that the industry itself often failed to provide, which explains why many LGBTQIA+ people “stan” these global superstars.
“We’re still waiting for the moment when queer pop stars will be allowed to claim their place in the mainstream not just as representatives of their community, but as globally celebrated megastars on equal footing with icons like Beyoncé, Grande and Swift,” Philémond-Montout said. “Until then, we must keep pushing for more visibility, inclusivity and equality within the music industry.”
While the music industry has been slower to fully embrace the community, fashion has been a more accepting industry, thanks in part to iconic designers like Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Gianni Versace, Marc Jacobs and Christian Siriano.
Fashion’s broader acceptance of LGBTQIA+ individuals is also rooted in its industry-wide representation — spanning CEOs, models, hair and makeup artists and even interns. This inclusivity allows the entire fashion ecosystem to be supportive, whereas in music, LGBTQIA+ representation often relies on standout artists or a few outspoken industry members, rather than being embedded throughout the industry, according to Quynh Mai, chief executive officer and founder of the digitally native creative agency Qulture.
“Fashion has been about embracing creativity, design and the feminine spirit. Early gay designers were well-received in the industry and culture…because they served women who admired their good taste and flair. It was one of the first industries that openly embraced gay men because its customers did.” Mai said. “That connection, through creativity and design, forged a strong connection between the gay community that is still strong today.”
On the brand side, Calvin Klein — whose founder identifies as gay — has long supported the LGBTQIA+ community by featuring a diverse range of LGBTQIA+ artists in its campaigns. The New York-based brand has seamlessly integrated its identity with LGBTQIA+ culture, most notably through its ongoing “This Is Love” campaign, which celebrates the many meaningful connections within the LGBTQIA+ community.
The campaign not only showcases the brand’s latest collections but also offers a reimagined approach to Pride, highlighting the spectrum of love and identity, the brand noted. Featured artists like Sivan, Cara Delevingne and Jeremy Pope are part of a larger narrative that positions Calvin Klein as both a “cultural leader” and an “advocate for queer representation.”
Furthering its commitment to the LGBTQIA+ community, in 2024 alone, the brand has committed more than $240,000 to key LGBTQIA+ organizations, including its hero partners ILGA World and the Transgender Law Center. Beyond financial support, Calvin Klein collaborates with these groups to provide its global teams with the resources and insights needed to be stronger allies and advocates for the LGBTQIA+ community.
However, while these efforts are a positive step, Mai noted that it will take more than a few campaigns to fully embrace LGBTQIA+ culture.
“You cannot be what you cannot see, so the ‘This Is Love’ campaign helps highlight the dimensions of queer love for the masses,” Mai said. “Any brand that wants to stand behind Pride should be applauded, but the real integration comes when it is normalized and standard in brand communications, like racial diversity, in every brand communications platform and not just siloed campaigns or during Pride.”
David Granados, a Latin artist engulfed in both the fashion and music scenes, concurs with Mai’s statement, noting that while LGBTQIA+ individuals have significantly contributed to both the fashion and music industries, fashion often serves as a sanctuary for those who “don’t conform to societal norms.”
“In fashion, we are celebrated for our authentic selves; in music, however, capitalism dictates that we are valued only if our message can sell to the masses. It’s challenging to be told to dilute or tone down your essence to appeal to a broader audience,” Granados, who recently released his latest single “Sativa,” told WWD. “I’ve encountered this more frequently in the music business than in fashion. But, as my mother’s son, I trust my instincts and pursue what feels purposeful, allowing the universe to affirm my path — and it does.”
Although the music industry still has a long way to go, Emily Burnett, cofounder and chief marketing officer of the U.S. branch of Queer Music Agency — a global agency that exclusively represents LGBTQIA+ artists — says the organization is working hard to accelerate this change and make the industry more inclusive.
“While icons like John and Mercury paved the way, queer artists for decades faced a landscape where being ‘out’ could limit their audience, affect their marketability or hinder mainstream success. For many, staying closeted was safer, and as a result, queer representation in music has only recently become more visible,” Burnett said. “However, momentum is building, and artists like Sivan, Petras and Lil Nas X are shifting the landscape. Still, the industry is only just beginning to catch up with the public’s growing acceptance and enthusiasm for queer artistry. With that in mind, we’re on a mission to connect queer talent worldwide and help them build careers that are true to their identities.”
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