Easton, Maryland, is a must-visit dining destination just 90 minutes from Delaware

EDITOR'S NOTE: Chef Harley Peet won a James Beard Award on June 10 in Chicago. This story has been updated.

When you don’t want to hop on a plane for a getaway, getting into the car for a summer day or overnight trip can change your attitude.

Better still is discovering a nearby top-notch dining destination.

Food lovers, we have the place for you. Check out Easton, Maryland, a charming, no longer so sleepy Eastern Shore town in Talbot County. This gem is about a 90-minute drive from Wilmington or Rehoboth Beach and about 70 minutes from Dover.

One of its must-visit restaurants (and there are several) is Bas Rouge, a contemporary, European-style, fine dining establishment operating since 2016.

Why go to Bas Rouge?

The restaurant's executive chef Harley Peet on Monday, June 10, won the James Beard Foundation's Award for the best chef in the Mid-Atlantic region.

He was competing at the awards in Chicago against Delaware's Matt Kern, chef/owner of One Coastal in Fenwick Island; Tony Conte of Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana in Darnestown, Maryland; Jesse Ito of Royal Sushi & Izakaya in Philadelphia; and Kevin Tien of Washington, D.C.'s Moon Rabbit.

Peet, a Michigan native and a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, was formerly chef de cuisine at the Tilghman Island Inn and then worked for several years with chef Mark Salter at the upscale The Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels.

Since 2014, Peet has headed the culinary program for Bluepoint Hospitality, a group owned by Paul B. Prager, founder of a privately owned energy and digital infrastructure service provider.

For more than 15 years, Prager, a Brooklyn, New York, native, and a United States Naval Academy graduate, has been buying Easton real estate and buildings. In addition to Bas Rouge, Bluepoint runs a dozen other chic shops, cafes, bars, restaurants, and even a theater in the town.

Prager takes the hospitality industry very seriously. In 2020, he hired Ben Chekroun, the ma?tre d' for 27 years at New York's three-Michelin star French seafood restaurant Le Bernardin, to be Bluepoint's general manager.

What to expect at Bas Rouge?

While I've visited and stayed in the affluent St. Michaels, I've never visited Easton, a lovely historic, red-bricked town founded in 1710 with a population of over 17,000. A statue of civil rights leader Frederick Douglass, who delivered his famous "Self-Made Men" speech in the town's courthouse, has been erected on the lawn of the building on North Washington Street.

The 24-seat Bas Rouge at 19 Federal St. is open for à la carte lunch from 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. on Thursdays and Fridays.

A prix-fixe menu for dinner is offered from 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays. Three courses are $125 and four courses are $150. A seven-course chef's tasting menu is $225 on Friday and Saturday nights. Wine pairings and a Kaluga Grand Cru Caviar supplement are extra.

With its 19th-century crystal chandeliers, stunning flower arrangements, French Bernardaud china, and German and Austrian hunting paintings, Bas Rouge is an Old World restaurant for those who want to indulge in refined elegance.

A solid silver English meat trolley dating back to 1910 is parked outside a back dining room. The dress code is "smart casual" (no ballcaps, T-shirts, or flip-flops here), but it's not as stuffy as it sounds.

Dog lovers will be delighted to know the restaurant's name is a French nickname for the Beauceron, a large herding dog with russet-colored forefeet. Bas Rouge is French for "red stockings."

Prager and his wife Joanne raise and compete Beaucerons at the Westminister Kennel Club and there are sketches of the dogs on the website and the menus. It's endearing and amusing to know this upscale restaurant is named for a dog.

When to go?

A pal and I visited Bas Rouge for lunch in early May on a Thursday and it was a quiet day — there was only one other occupied table during our visit. But I've heard it bustles more for Friday lunch (and I'm sure it will be busier as the summer gets underway). Reservations are a must for dinner.

Jazz plays in the background and as soon as we were seated by the front window, we were brought padded stools for our handbags. Service is elegant and friendly and our server thoughtfully answered all questions and made several suggestions.

What to get?

Dishes are polished adaptations of traditional Viennese and European classics. When a server asks if you want bread, gladly accept the offer. It's housemade, fabulously chewy and crusty, especially the savory cheddar and the sweeter apricot varieties.

Seasonality plays a part in what's on the plate. During our springtime visit, ramps and morels had starring roles in dishes.

The plating on the appetizers of salmon tartare, $20, with feuille de brick (a sheet of pastry), sesame and ginger and trout roe and artichoke agnolotti, $18, with lemon chive-ricotta and warm tomato vinaigrette, are impressive and exquisite. We splurged and added the $15 grand cru Kaluga caviar to the salmon tartare. This is the place for luxury, so why not go for it?

Wagyu carpaccio, $26, hits all the high-end, right notes with crispy capers, chives and ramp mayonnaise.

The house specialty is Wiener Schnitzel, a seldom-seen (at least these days) entrée. The thin, breaded, pan-fried veal cutlet, $43, served with a warm fingerling potato salad and lingonberries, is the national dish of Austria. (It's on the menu because Prager loves Vienna.)

After chatting with our server, we got beer-battered fish and chips, $27, especially after learning that it was a favorite of Chef de Cuisine Phil Lind, who grew up in the United Kingdom. The crust was light and crunchy and the moist, sweet fish was served with pea puree, curry oil and tartar sauce.

A dining buddy went with airy gnocchi, $26, nestled with springtime morel mushrooms, fresh ramps and Parmesan foam.

After learning the ice cream was homemade, we split a double scoop of rich and creamy cherry ice cream.

What to drink?

A splurge lunch calls for some bubbles and you certainly can't go wrong with a crisp glass of Crémant du Jura Stéphane et Bénédicte Tissot Rosé Dosage Zéro. Wines by the glass also are available in 3- and 6-ounce pours. The wine and beverages list is 70 pages long and lists cocktails, mocktails, beers, and plenty of vintage Champagnes along with Californian, Austrian, French, and German wines. The staff is more than accommodating, so ask for suggestions.

Where else to go?

Bas Rouge is easily the crown jewel of Bluepoint Hospitality, but the group offers more boutique dining in the town at lower price points.

Bonheur on Goldsborough Street has housemade pie and ice cream, Friday afternoon tea, and Saturday breakfast. Bumble Bee Juice & Broth on Federal Street offers healthy gourmet juices, artisan honey, smoothies and bone broth.

P. Bordier on Goldsborough Street is the place for takeaway sweet and savory crepes, pastries and drip coffee.

Artisanal soups, customized salads and wraps made with meat, poultry, fish, and New York's stellar Russ & Daughters’ smoked salmon can be found at Sunflowers & Greens on Federal Street. Roma on West Street has to-go Roman-style pizza by the slice or a whole pie.

The Stewart on Federal Street is an intimate bar-and-restaurant focusing on single-malt Scotch whiskeys and vintage Champagne. It offers snacks like bacon and cheddar popcorn or French fries and caviar, along with burgers, soft shell crabs (this is the Eastern Shore, after all), grilled cheese and sticky toffee pudding.

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A Delaware favorite: Harry's Savoy Grill is named as a USA TODAY Restaurant of the Year. What makes it special?

The Wardroom is a Washington Street market, wine shop and a bistro featuring hot corned beef and rare roast beef sandwiches in the day and pasta such as linguine fra diavolo with lobster in the evening. Sunday brunch has omelets, eggs Benedict, breakfast sandwiches and mimosas and bellinis.

How to get to Easton, Maryland

The town is about 83 miles from Wilmington. Take U.S. 301 south to Maryland route 213 south to U.S. 50 east/Ocean Gateway.

You can find Patricia Talorico on Instagram, X and Facebook. Email  [email protected]. Sign up for her  Delaware Eats newsletter.

This article originally appeared on Delaware News Journal: A James Beard dining experience, Bas Rouge is 90 minutes from Delaware