How Edeltrud Hofmann's humble blouse became the main attraction
There’s a reason why the images of Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton and Chris von Wangenheim from the 1970s still find themselves pinned up on moodboards to this day. They're a stylistic starting point for so many designers and photoshoots that yearn for the glamour and fearlessness of the era.
A playful mix of colour and print, a slight puff and gather on the shoulder, a pussy-bow tie - these details, alongside big hair, strong eyeshadow and a don’t-care attitude, pulled fashion out of the Sixties hippie vibe and into a decidedly sexier, vampier attitude.
It’s those Guy Bourdin editorial images of Yves Saint Laurent collections that spring to mind as I’m browsing Matchesfashion.com for new spring arrivals, and land upon the latest brand in its roster, Edeltrud Hofmann.
With colourful blouses in bold prints and patterns, like vintage scarves that have been artfully cut to become statement shirts, this is a collection for women who love a bit of pizzazz.
In fact, Edeltrud Hofmann’s founder Masayo Kishi actually created the line of blouses to give her daily outfits some of this pizzazz (my term, not hers). As a stylist, her daily uniform was created for efficiency.
“In the hectic fashion world,” she told me, “I mostly wear trousers and flat shoes [to run around in], so I needed either a silk scarf or a silk blouse to still feel elegant. The shape hides my body complex well, so this was my best solution as [a new] uniform.”
There’s a definite throwback vibe to Kishi’s line, to which she owes the women in her family. “My first collection of pussy-bow blouses is a classic style from the 1940s and 1950s. My grandmother and mother wore them, so it is based on a vintage look that I grew up around.”
“I tried to elevate that blouse to a more modern look using a two-tone combo with fun prints,” she adds. “I love the idea of wearing the blouses with jeans, or a cigarette tapered trouser and flats, or under the item of the season, the jumpsuit.” She’s right - her blouses are an instant pick-me-up and main attraction for any pairing.
What’s key to her brand vision are the fabric choices. “I purchase fabrics at random stores who sell both new and vintage fabrics in Manhattan,” Kishi shares.
“I have few special places to go for high-end archives and dead-stock fabrics from Italy. It's like digging around for rare records at a market. And when I find beautiful fabrics and patterns, I definitely enjoy this precious moment - it’s like falling in love!” Sounds like what we all do once we set eyes upon her pieces.
From ￡670, exclusive to Matchesfashion.com