Emanuel Ungaro RTW Spring 2018

Katya Foreman

Updated Sat, September 30, 2017 at 8:46 PM UTC

There were some nice ideas here, even if the general tone for Marco Colagrossi’s first collection for the house felt too aggressive.

Among the keepers in the dress-centric lineup based on flower shapes and oversized Eighties volumes were the opening gray tailored looks with raw, colored, contrast edges; a short-and-sweet poufy floral mini with a train; and a bustier black mini covered in tiny mirrors.

But as the designer looks to write a fresh chapter for the beleaguered house, the plastic-y finishes and shine, and some of his treatments of house codes, felt a bit gimmicky. Examples included purple tulip skirts with electric blue appliqué dots, accessorized with an equally unpalatable fanny pack crammed with plastic flowers, as well as some of the prints, which, like the line in general, had a little too much going on.

Launch Gallery: Emanuel Ungaro RTW Spring 2018

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Emanuel Ungaro RTW Spring 2018

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