Emily Ratajkowski Went Barefaced on Tory Burch’s Runway
If the spring season is meant to instill an air of freshness, then Tory Burch understood the assignment—even in the pouring rain. Weather be damned, an unsurprisingly sophisticated crowd gathered at the American Museum of Natural History’s Gilder Center for Science, Education, and Innovation on Monday night for the unveiling of the designer’s spring/summer 2024 collection.
Notably, the Gilder Center is situated next to the Hall of Gems and Minerals. It was a stunning locale complete with sculptural architecture and warm lighting. Think: Kim Kardashian’s infamous house tour, except livelier, rife with people and models. The music, though…now that will live in my head the foreseeable future. I can only describe it as old-school hip-hop jams layered with Gregorian chants. Oddly enough, it worked? I will neither confirm nor deny whether I Shazamed it.
Above the customary hush that falls upon the room when the lights go down, one attendee loudly stated, “Ooh, that’s dark!” I suspected the voice came from Tiffany Haddish in the front row, but I can’t say for sure.
Speaking of the FROW, it also included Uma Thurman, Naomi Watts, and Emma Robert, among others. Designer KidSuper was in attendance, as were actresses Suki Waterhouse and Chloe Fineman, singer Leon Bridges, and influencer extraordinaire Alix Earle.
I could call the collection effortless, but Burch says it better in her show notes. “In a chaotic world, we thought about what ‘effortless’ means now. Clothing that frees up space in your mind.” The designer even admitted this particular range is a bit of an evolution for her. This time around, she experimented by leaning into modular tailoring, lightweight textiles, and simplistic layers. This meant a variety of coats, be it structured blazers, collarless peacoats, or even a delightfully unexpected windbreaker.
“This collection is designed to be lived in, to move with you, and to instill a sense of lightness and optimism,” Burch continues. The color palettes heavily featured neutrals, balancing creams and grays with darker tones like navy. There were tunics and coordinated sets. The hemlines were mini, and some pieces came adorned with a hybrid of fringe and tassels all-over…like a shag carpet, but somehow chic. There was a white minidress that’s sure to be on every 2024 bride’s wish list, teeny-tiny polka dots, and a catwalk appearance by Emily Ratajkowski. Incredibly, during a year so saturated with pink—thanks to a particular blockbuster film—Burch managed to make a bubblegum frock that didn’t trigger my flight-or-fight response. It was nice.
As far as accessories went, it was all about silver (sorry, gold). Silver hoop earrings, silver bangles, even silver hardware on the garments. If it wasn’t silver, it was jewelry made of seashells, which I quite liked. No puka shell necklaces, I assure you. The bags were hip-hugging, and one was a transparent green. Models wore sporty sunglasses with yellow lenses, akin to those that have been popular in streetwear as of late.
Interestingly, all the shoes were “constructed entirely of round edges,” per the show notes. I haven’t a clue why, but they looked unique, and I was relieved that they weren’t the pin-thin stilettos I’ve seen teetering down the catwalks this week—I couldn’t stand to watch another near spill. Instead, most of Burch’s featured footwear were flats.
The hairstyles were slicked and often held back by large barrettes. Makeup was kept minimal. Rather, the model’s faces looked naked and dewy. This, combined with the non-intimidating styles, made the entire collection feel clean and polished. Top to bottom—from the cavernous venue to the glossy faces—embodied structure and movement while maintaining approachability. The ensembles are ones that you might actually see in the wild, likely on the coolest girl on any West Village sidewalk.
Personally, I walked out feeling more elegant, almost as if I didn’t inhale a sausage slice off of a paper plate before walking in the door. Call that aspirational dressing, I suppose.
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