Ernest W. Baker Men’s Spring 2023
Moody, rainy and dark, the Ernest W. Baker collection is reflecting on the troubled state of the world this season, influenced by their work with Ukrainian director and photographer Vladimir Kaminetsky, who helmed the brand’s fashion week film. With a beating rain outside, models walk in a succession of well-cut suits, leather overalls, sleeveless jackets and bright bomber-and-shorts sets, both overwhelmed by the elements and separated from them.
The collection is like rummaging through your grandfather’s closet, picking out a pin-striped blazer here and a knit polo there. That’s the goal of design duo Reid Baker and Ines Amorim, who draw influence from Milan’s stylish senior citizens for the classic pieces they update in more generous proportions. Influences of the 1970s are clear in their best-selling flared trouser, and the nod to the decade runs even deeper this season with an added colorway of rust and gold. Mafioso references also seep through, particularly in gold chains and chunky pinky rings.
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Pink check was another addition, and crocheted floral accents infuse a sense of lightness, deepening the idea of a child playing dress-up in grown-ups’ clothing.
They produce everything within a few miles of their base in Porto, Portugal, and work with a small team of local artisans to create their knitwear. It’s a dying art, they note, and all of the women workers are over 60, using techniques passed down through the generations.
“We’re building on the strong, steady foundation of the brand,” said Baker of the small-batch, slow-fashion ethos. “We’re hands-on collaborating with [the artisans], and it allows us to control everything and really focus on all the details.” The old-school, handcrafted feel is a hit with celebrities (Harry Styles and Justin Bieber are fans) and will resonate with buyers.
Launch Gallery: Ernest W. Baker Men's Spring 2023
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