EXCLUSIVE: Tory Burch’s New Fragrance Reflects Her Creative Journey
As Tory Burch’s creative point of view for her company has come into focus, so has her vision for beauty.
In partnership with licensee Shiseido, Burch’s latest fragrance marks a new pillar for the beauty business — and new creative territory for the designer. Called Sublime, the scent will debut at Ulta Beauty and in Tory Burch boutiques, as well as on its website, Monday. Prices range from $35 for a travel spray to $155 for the 90-ml. size.
More from WWD
Burch, her company’s executive chairman and chief creative officer, said her creative processes — for fragrances and for her fashion business — share more similarities than differences. “I think about individuality above everything, and my approach [with fragrance] mirrors my design philosophy,” she said. “It’s reimagining classics with a tension and contrast, building confidence. Those are things I think about when I design a collection as well.”
To that end, Givaudan perfumers Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Christine Hassan layered leather against rose, osmanthus flower, earthy vetiver and mandarin, and the scent also has notes of ivy, patchouli and magnolia.
“I was in Antigua, and I had this old leather bag,” Burch said of the fragrance’s origins. “The smell was intoxicating, and it gave me the idea of a starting point for this new fragrance.”
Burch has been focused “on the creative process and the craftsmanship of everything we do,” she said, since her husband Pierre-Yves Roussel assumed the chief executive officer role at her company five years ago. Via email, he noted the commonalities between the Tory Burch brand and Shiseido.
“They bring refinement, precision and a relentless attention to quality to everything they do,” Roussel said. “Their 150-year history, depth of expertise and commitment to innovation is unparalleled in the beauty industry.”
Added Masahiko Uotani, chairman and CEO of Shiseido, “This new fragrance Sublime by Tory Burch, like the brand itself, is a direct reflection of Tory Burch’s passion, innovation and creative spirit. The launch of Sublime represents a pillar moment in Shiseido’s strategic growth opportunities for Tory Burch Beauty.”
Executives didn’t comment on sales, though industry sources expect Sublime to reach $40 million in retail sales for its first year on the market.
Sublime follows the launch of the Essence of Dreams collection in 2022. “We are exceeding our own expectations in terms of what the collection is doing for us, and it has set the stage for all things Tory Burch Beauty, especially as we’re about to embark on what we’re doing with Sublime,” said Emmie Salaj, global general manager of Tory Burch Beauty. “We’ve been spending a lot of time with Tory, understanding her vision, seeing and watching what’s happening with fashion and how everything is being reimagined. We’re taking those same ideas to the beauty side.”
Added Ron Gee, CEO of Shiseido Americas, via email, “The evolution of this launch has been exciting and inspiring to watch. Shiseido is bringing something unique and different to the fragrance consumer through Tory Burch Beauty, not only with the scent but with an innovative 360 marketing plan.”
That plan, which Salaj expects to resonate broadly, entails an emphasis on 18- to 24-year-old consumers and a push on TikTok. “We will be investing significantly across global markets, media, out of home. We want to come out strong,” Salaj said.
Part of that includes an all-encompassing campaign, lensed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, featuring Kendall Jenner. “I want to align with designers who feel genuinely right to me, and this felt natural and organic,” Jenner said in a statement. “Sublime is beautiful, it’s sexy, it’s confident.”
“I met her a while ago on a shoot and I’ve always been intrigued by her. There’s a quiet power, she’s fearless, she’s an entrepreneur, she has incredible family values and a great work ethic,” Burch said of deciding to work with Jenner, noting it was the first time they’ve had star-studded representation in fragrance.
Other collaborators include artist Malin Ericson, who designed the refillable bottle. “I wanted an abstract, three-dimensional take on our Ts,” Burch said, referencing the brand’s logo, which sits askew on the cap. “I wanted it sculptural, architectural and artistic. The off-kilter [logo] was representative of where we’re taking the brand and its evolution. It’s not straightforward, you reinvent yourself, it’s doable, and that’s the message I wanted to give women and men.”
As for where the brand is heading, Burch noted there are no immediate plans to expand beyond fragrance, but didn’t rule them out. “Shiseido and I did a collaboration several years ago around sunblock, and I would love to think about other categories as well,” Burch mused. “I love makeup, and skin care. But we don’t have plans right now.”
Salaj also noted there weren’t immediate plans, but was bullish on the future. “We don’t have immediate plans, but definitely for consideration. She’s a powerhouse and a lifestyle brand, and from a Shiseido point of view, the opportunity, and possibilities, are there.”
Best of WWD
Solve the daily Crossword
