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An Expert Found the Most Flattering Colors for My Complexion and It Changed the Way I Think About Myself (And My Clothes)

I have a confession to make: I’m not always super confident. There are some days where I pull together an outfit, look in the mirror and think ‘eh, good enough.’ (Not a great way to think about yourself, I know). It’s something that I’ve been working on for the past couple of years and while I’m definitely better than I used to be, I want to get to a point where I actually like how I look most days.

So, when I learned that a color analysis could improve my confidence and transform my closet, I was all in. For the uninformed, color analysis is a process where scientific color theory is used to determine the best shades for your complexion. Once I saw before and after photos of people who’d done it, I wasted no time booking an appointment with Gretchen Mayhew, a House of Colour-trained color consultant.

House of Colour is a UK-based company that has been offering personal color and style analysis since the ‘80s, based on Swiss painter Johannes Itten’s theory of color groupings. Leaving behind an 18-year career as a yoga teacher, Mayhew decided to become a full-time color consultant after she got her own colors done and saw how it transformed her life. She headed to London, England, to participate in a ten-day intensive training program where she learned about the history of color analysis, color theory and how to apply House of Colour’s comprehensive analysis process on clients.

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Mayhew scheduled me for a 10 a.m. session, which is when the lighting in her Barrington, Rhode Island studio is best. She advised me to arrive with a clean face, because she needed to see my natural skin, and to wear comfortable clothes, considering the process might take up to two hours.

Before Color Analysis: 

After giving me a quick intro to color theory, during which she explained that everyone falls into one of four seasonal categories (fall, winter, spring or summer) based on the undertones of their complexion, it was time for me to get into the analysis chair. Mayhew started the process by covering my sweater in a white apron and tying a white cloth around my head so that my highlights (which aren’t natural) wouldn’t interfere with the process.

First on the agenda? To determine whether I looked best in warm, yellow-based colors or cool, blue-based colors. Mayhew began layering alternating warm and cool drapes (squares of fabric that each House of Colour consultant uses) over my chest. “Do you have a preference?” She asked, after she’d placed 20 drapes on me. “Yeah, the warm ones look terrible,” I observed, after watching the way my appearance changed in the mirror as each drape went on. The warm colors made my face look dull and yellowy.

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Then, Mayhew removed the drapes one by one, as part of the “takedown” process, and watched closely as my face changed, brightening with some shades and being washed out by others. She confirmed my suspicion, declaring that I look best in a cool color palette. “Thank god,” I thought, breathing a sigh of relief that I wouldn’t have to overhaul my closet that’s already dominated by pale blues and soft lavenders.

Next up, we had to determine which of the cool-toned palettes I belonged in: winter or summer. The winter palette consists of clear, bright colors, whereas summer is made up of more subtle, muted shades. For those who look better in warm tones, this step is conducted with the fall (subtle and muted) and spring (bright and vivid) palettes.

Secretly, I was hoping to be labeled a winter—after all, it’s the only group that gets to own black as one of their “wow colors." BTW, that's color analysis slang for something you could wear from head-to-toe and still see your features pop. After another draping and takedown, Mayhew announced that I was, indeed, a winter. Score!

After Color Analysis:

Some of the colors I’d never even heard of (like carmine, damson and lobelia), while others were already staples (looking at you, grey and charcoal). But I have to admit, I felt pretty amazing looking in the mirror when Mayhew had all 18 winter colors draped around my shoulders. My eyes seemed to light up, and my smile looked brighter (and not only because the indigo made my teeth appear whiter).

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Some of these shades, such as electric blue and pine green, were ones that I had shied away from because I was afraid they might be too much. But I thought wrong. “You can handle a strong color,” Mayhew assured me. While a vibrant raspberry or royal purple might make someone else fade into the background, it makes my green eyes and clear complexion stand out.

Before we took the picture above, Mayhew also did my makeup using House of Colour’s in-house line. To be honest, this is the part of the process that I was most unsure about. I’m loyal to my BareMinerals tinted moisturizer, and generally think that my makeup looks pretty natural and flattering (if I do say so myself). But as soon as she swiped on blush in shade 22, which was a soft, dark pink, my doubts dissipated. I never look good in blush, but this one made my skin look bright and radiant. And yes, I bought it immediately.

While I, admittedly, don’t wear winter colors every day (look, I’m not perfect), I do love being armed with the knowledge that these are my shades. When I do wear them, I walk a little taller and feel more confident with my outfits. The other Tuesday, I wore a deep purple sweater (one of my colors) paired with a bright pink lip (a good shade for us winters) to the office. I found myself almost strutting to the bathroom and feeling more comfortable than usual as I walked into a big meeting.

I’ll admit, the color analysis didn’t totally solve my confidence issue—that’s gonna take some more time. But it did give me a secret weapon I can use on days where I’m not feeling my best. It might be small, but knowing that I should wear the navy blouse instead of the pale pink one makes me feel even a teeny bit more empowered, and that’s a pretty good start.

Shop Winter Palette Items:

Moon River High Neck Chunky Cable Knit Sweater  $94

Zella Live In High Waist Leggings  $59

Everlane ReNew Fleece Oversized Sweatshirt  $39

Mavi Jeans Alexa Mid Rise Skinny Jeans  $98

Halogen Crewneck Cashmere Sweater  $66

Shop Summer Palette Items

Rebecca Minkoff Chiara Sweater

Loewe Heel Leather Crossbody Bag  $950

Natori Cozy Pants  $53

Y.A.S. Leather Jacket  $215

Shop Fall Palette Items:

Topshop Pointelle Stripe Sweater  $60

Barefoot Dreams CozyChic Lite Long Cardigan  $120

Girlfriend Collective Compressive High Rise Full Length Leggings  $68

The North Face Chunky Rib Beanie  $22

Shop Spring Palette Items:

cupcakes and cashmere Rhonda Pullover  $110

YFB Clothing Corinne Top  $114

Halogen Wide Leg Crop Pants  $49

Frame Les Second Large Tote  $550

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PureWow may receive a portion of sales from products purchased from this article, which was created independently from PureWow's editorial and sales departments.

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