How to Fix Clumpy Mascara, According to Makeup Artists
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Whether long and spidery or big and chunky, lash styles vary with personal beauty preferences and trends. One thing that's universal? Unintentionally clumpy lashes and the annoyance they provoke. If you've ever applied mascara and been not-so-blessed with a gloopy chunk of product, you know exactly what we're talking about. Regardless of how often you've experienced it, once is enough to leave you exasperated. So, we decided to get to the bottom of the situation and eliminate clumping for good. Is the application style or the mascara ultimately to blame?
We spoke to several makeup artists, Kelli J. Bartlett, Amanda Rodriguez, and Eddie Giron, to gain their industry insight into the matter.
Meet The Expert
Kelli J. Bartlett is a makeup artist and founding member of Glamsquad.
Amanda Rodriguez is a brand manager of WLDKAT and the former global artistry manager at Urban Decay.
Eddie Giron is an Ardell educator and makeup artist.
Keep reading for eight expert-approved tips and tricks for preventing and reviving clumpy mascara.
Perfect Your Technique
Believe it or not, there is a right way to apply mascara: "The bulk of the mascara should be at the root...not the tip [of the lash]," Bartlett says. Her recommended technique for applying mascara leaves most of the product at the middle and base of the lashes, as too much product at the tips can cause clumping. Here's how it works:
Tap the mascara wand against your eyelash roots, making sure the brush is separating the lashes.
Roll it forward (much like a hairstylist would when blowing out hair) to capture each lash.
Move it back and forth while pulling the brush in an upward motion. (Note: Make sure to do this gently, otherwise you run the risk of the mascara clumping, especially if you've got shorter, sparser lashes).
Know When to Toss Your Mascara
If you haven't already been replacing your mascara every three months, then now's the time to start. That's because old mascara is among the most common causes of clumping. "Mascara's shelf life starts ticking the second you open it, so make sure you keep an eye on how long you've had that tube rolling around your bag," Rodriguez says.
Tips
If you notice mascara flaking on the lashes, the formula has most likely dried out.
Double Cleanse
One of Rodriguez's biggest tips for preventing clumpy mascara is to make sure that you've completely removed all traces of mascara from the last time you wore it. She recommends double cleansing to get the job done. "Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil and Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser ($19) are my go-to's to ensure yesterday's flaky mascara isn't messing with my fresh application," she says.
Prep With a Primer
A great lash primer widens your lashes without creating clumps and generally preps lashes for an even mascara application. So, it's worth investing in a product like Dior's Diorshow Maximizer 3D Triple Volume Plumping Lash Primer, which is infused with an oil serum, to improve the thickness and curl of your lashes both immediately and over time.
Don't Apply Too Much Product
In terms of the amount of product you should apply to your lashes, "two coats should be the limit," says Rodriguez. "Anything more will over-pile and give you spidery lashes." (Remember, you can always scrape some product off the wand—either against the opening of the tube or with a tissue—to remove some of the excess product before applying.) But if you go too far with your application, Rodriguez recommends a lash comb to brush out excess product and to keep lashes long, separated, and defined.
Tips
Use a spoolie or lash separator tool to comb through lashes before applying mascara for the ultimate clump-free look.
Factor in Dry Time
Patience is the not-so-secret tenet of perfection. If you're applying multiple coats of mascara (no more than two!), it's best to allow for each layer to dry before topping up. The same goes with top and bottom lashes. Wait a few seconds for the top lashes to dry before coating the bottom lashes, this will keep them from clumping together and creating that heavy, gooey feeling we're all trying to avoid.
Choose the Right Wand
As a general rule, Rodriguez says to choose a mascara with a molded plastic wand. "A plastic brush will work easily through your lashes like a mini comb and give you soft, smooth lashes. Though, if you'd like to get more technical, different types of lashes may respond to some wands better than others.
For example, a fine-toothed mascara brush can accentuate the length and minimize clumping. "The tiny teeth untangle short, curly lashes—grabbing and coating even the smallest hairs," says Bartlett. Meanwhile, an hourglass-shaped brush with dense bristles is great for building volume and length without clumping, as the shape allows an even distribution of product from root to tip.
Swirl, Don't Pump
When collecting product from the tube, it may feel natural to pump your mascara wand in and out. This, however, also pumps air into the tube which not only will thicken the mascara and shorten its shelf life, it can also introduce bacteria into the formula that may lead to irritation, infections, and styes in the future. Instead, "twirl it before taking it out," Giron advises, to ensure you get an even coating of product on your mascara wand.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a mascara's formula affect whether it clumps or not?
Yes. Apart from not using expired mascara, you should look for formulas that will not dry out (or at least, not as quickly). Ingredients like natural oils, natural waxes, vitamin E, panthenol, are moisturizing and non-synthetic.
How do you fix clumpy mascara once applied?
If you've got clumpy lashes due to applying too much product, don't despair. You can remove the clumpiness without having to totally redo your mascara. Just grab an old (clean) mascara wand and gently comb through lashes in a straight upward motion from root to tip. This will help to remove the excess product (and clumps).
If your mascara's formula has gone clumpy, how can you fix it?
If your mascara is clumpy because it's old, definitely throw it out. But if your mascara is relatively new but dried out, you can try reviving it. Anecdotal evidence suggests adding a drop of oil (e.g. olive oil) or even a couple of eye drops to help rehydrate your mascara's formula.
Up Next: Your Ultimate Guide to Every Type of Mascara
Read the original article on Byrdie.