The forgotten half of the Caribbean that mass tourism hasn't discovered

It’s not all about Barbados and Antigua – there’s more to the Caribbean than you might think

Standing on the beach at Baracoa, I felt like I had arrived somewhere important. It wasn’t just that I had crossed – by car and bus – east to west, almost the entirety of Cuba – a stringy island 777 miles long. It was also because that morning, Oscar, the guide I’d hired to take me on a hike to a coffee farm, had mentioned in passing that Columbus “came here before anywhere else – and he said it was the most beautiful place in the world.”

As soon as I could get online – and this being Cuba, it wasn’t that soon at all – I looked it up. It was true, even if the exact date of the landing was open to interpretation. Records indicate Columbus anchored off Baracoa on November 27, 1492, during his first voyage, hence its nickname “la ciudad primera” (“the first city”) and the claim to be where Europeans first “landed on American soil”.

“It does not appear to me that there can be a more fertile country nor a better climate under the sun,” Columbus is reported to have said, though he said that about most places (and actually thought he was in Japan, or maybe China).

Baracoa is still rather lovely. Gazing out east, towards a headland cloaked in forest, I could almost imagine the Santa Maria disappearing from view, heading back to Spain with promises of infinite riches and a few lies to spread among those nasty English and Dutch pirates who might want in on the New World.

Just as Spanish tourists are more likely to visit Cuba than, say, St Kitts, and the French benefit from regular flights to Martinique, the British notion of the Caribbean is all down to colonial and maritime history.

There are direct flights from the UK to Antigua, Barbados, Jamaica and St Lucia but not, funnily enough, to Belize, which is a former British Caribbean territory only on the mainland; nor to Guyana, which is politically inside the Caribbean, yet washed by the Atlantic Ocean, and generally seen as purely South American these days.

Living in Argentina in the Nineties, I approached the Caribbean flying northwards from Buenos Aires, taking holidays in Belize, Costa Rica and Guatemala, Portobelo in Panama and Cartagena in Colombia.

Off the Yucután peninsula – which has coasts on the Mexican Gulf and the Caribbean – I swam once with whale sharks, who feed where the currents merge. My tip is to do as they do and float freely between the seas; between islands and mainland; between coasts with varied colonial connections.

Below is my list of ten year-round hotspots for exploring beyond the ever-popular likes of Barbados and Jamaica – all packed with culture, music and food that come with a distinctive Latino twist.

While boasting beaches and alluring coasts, several open up fascinating hinterlands – wildlife habitats, ancient ruins, adventurous hikes. Moreover, you can fish for good deals around the large region, and be well away from mass tourism.

Finally, most of this Caribbean lies to the left of the Antilles, outside the path of Atlantic cyclones and hurricanes. So go and do as Columbus did – discover a new Caribbean, and share its beauty with your friends (but don’t tell everyone).

On the mainland

Punta Allen and Bacalar, Mexico

The chief problem with the so-called Mayan Riviera is that it’s not only not very Mayan, but it doesn’t feel that Mexican, either. Even those who fancy dinner, drinks and a dip in Playa del Carmen and a look around Tulum – beautiful but often thronging with coach parties – will yearn for a bit of peace at some stage.

Punta Allen, at the very tip of the Boca Paila Peninsula (and Route 15) is a rustic, palm-shaded cluster of shacks and private houses between two turquoise seas and white-sand beaches. It’s basic, and all the better for it; generally you can just roll up and find a bed for the night. The surrounding area is the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, protecting a fragile coastal wetlands ecosystem. Further south, close to Belize, is Bacalar, known for its Spanish fort and seven-hued lagoon. Here there are smarter thatched cabins, trad décor and superb seafood. Forty minutes’ drive north is the Chacchoben archaeological site. All very Mexican – and Mayan, too.

Journey Latin America (0203 553 9647, journeylatinamerica.co.uk) offers a 13-day self-drive Mexico: Discover the Yucatán holiday from ￡2,108pp. This allows for an in-depth exploration of the Yucatán and includes flights, hire car with insurance, mid-range hotels on a B&B basis and excursions.

? The best all-inclusive hotels in Mexico

Parque Nacional Tortuguero, Costa Rica

Tortuguero, named for its nesting turtles, is Costa Rica’s most enticing national park. It’s also found on the Caribbean coast. The flight from San José by prop plane, takes all of 30 minutes, but is where things really slow down. An abundance of coastal lagoons and freshwater channels have prevented road building – helping conservation no end, and requiring visitors to get around by boat. The biodiversity across fresh and saltwater ecosystems is dazzling, with a decent chance of seeing river turtle, spectacled caiman, southern river otter and even the endangered West Indian manatee; plus three-toed sloths and spider, howler and capuchin monkeys in the canopy. In all, there are 400 bird species, 400 tree species and 2,200 plant species.

Sea turtle sightings vary with the seasons – February to April is especially good for leatherbacks while August is excellent for hawksbills – but beach walks in search of them, after dark, are always memorable. To the south is Puerto Viejo, a party town that has retained its charm; attracting surfers for the legendary “Salsa Brava” break. Cacao farms outside town offer chocolate-making classes, ideal for a family outing.

Scott Dunn (020 3993 5593; scottdunn.com) has a 9-night holiday in Costa Rica from ￡3,000pp, based on two people staying 2 nights in Central Valley, 3 nights in Arenal, and 4 nights on the Papagayo Peninsula. The price includes flights from the UK, private transfers, luxury accommodation, breakfast and some experiences including an Arenal Sky Tram and zip-lining.

Portobelo, Panama

From the 16th century the Caribbean Sea was the Spaghetti Junction of European shipping – and piracy. Myriad islands and shallow seas meant the rival maritime powers could play hide and seek or, rather, shoot and loot – with the English, French, Dutch and Portuguese all vying for the silver Spain was plundering in Peru. Most of the booty was loaded at Portobelo, the main Caribbean port on the Panama isthmus.

Today, vestiges of those restive days remain in the Unesco-listed Portobelo and San Lorenzo fortifications; the Fuerte San Jerónimo, the largest fort, and Royal Customs House are impressive. The town is also home to the Galería Casa Congo, a fine collection of Afro-Caribbean arts and crafts (with a good restaurant inside). A 20-minute boat ride will bring you to the white sand beaches of Playa Blanca, a cove nicked into the coastal forest, with reefs lying just offshore.

The Ultimate Travel Company (020 3733, 4322, theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk) has a 16-day holiday combining Panama City and Portobelo with Boquete and the San Blas Islands. From ￡4,590, including flights.

Cartagena, Colombia

This former maritime powerhouse had a prominent role defending the interests of the Spanish Main, becoming a wealthy city in the colonial era – as evoked by its handsome mansions (many converted into hotels and romantic patio-restaurants), plazas, pastel-splashed churches, monasteries and palaces – plus the gruesome Museum of Inquisition. A walk round the bulwarks around dusk is a lovely local tradition, as is stopping by the Café del Mar for cocktails at sunset.

Hire a bike one morning and ride over to Getsemani before it gets too steamy; a smaller, less-polished version of Cartagena proper, it has a certain charm. Several offshore islands lend themselves to day trips, but it’s also easy to fly from Cartagena to lively San Andrés and tiny Providencia – two classically Caribbean islands still not fully explored by British travellers.

Cartagena features on many cruise itineraries, with a few firms, including Scenic and Regent Seven Seas, starting their voyages here. Allow at least three days either before or after a cruise to see the sights.

Humboldt Travel (01603 959239, humboldttravel.co.uk) has a three-week (22 day) in-depth itinerary based around three Colombian cities – Bogotá, Medellin and Cartagena, also taking in the coffee region, San Agustín and Villa de Leyva. From ￡5,780pp, including flights from the UK.

Santa Marta and Tayrona, Colombia

Founded in 1525, Santa Marta is Colombia’s oldest city – though repeated “visits” by English and Dutch pirates mean there’s little left in the way of heritage. Still, the “old town” has some attractive public spaces, such as the Parque de los Novios, excellent restaurants, and a busy marina. A couple of days here is plenty of time to see the Customs House, the city’s oldest building, and the Gold Museum, with its displays about indigenous cultures. Outside the centre is the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, the sugar-cane farm where Simón Bolívar, liberator of northern South America, breathed his last.

For a beach break, skip the resorts and head north to Taganga, a tiny town with a small strip of bars, one nightclub and a reef teeming with marine-life. About 45 minutes further along the road, at the foot of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Tayrona National Park has white-sand beaches lapped by turquoise waters and surrounded by lush jungle; you can hire horses to explore the beautiful coves of the Arrecifes area. The 14 thatched “ecohabs” on Ca?averal beach make an ideal base for hikes into the park and a road trip up the slopes of the Sierra Nevada, the towering coastal mountain range.

The South America Specialists (01525 306 555, thesouthamericaspecialists.com) offer an 11-night Colombia holiday featuring two nights in Bogotá, three nights in Cartagena, four nights in Tayrona National Park and two nights in Santa Marta including international return flights. From ￡1,950pp.

Island life

Ambergris Caye, Belize

The most northerly, longest and most manicured of Belize’s cayes (offshore islands), Ambergris Caye is Central America filtered through a very expensive pair of sunglasses (or diving mask, perhaps). Its main village, San Pedro, is almost too tweely Caribbean to be true, and is filled with the most exclusive hotels, restaurants and bars in all of Belize. Food is a cut above the mainland, too.

The main reason for being here, though, is the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef – one of the world’s premier diving sites, just a couple of miles off the southern tip – and San Pedro is equipped to arrange excellent scuba, snorkelling or glass-bottomed boat trips for those who want to cast a more leisurely eye over the underwater marvels. Combine a visit with the Caracol archaeological site and Mayan Mountains – where the Coppola family runs the splendid Blancaneaux Lodge (telegraph.co.uk/tt-blancaneaux-lodge-hotel) – and at least you’ll see something of the real, rough-edged, eclectic Belize on the transfer.

Naturally Belize (0208 274 8510, naturallybelize.co.uk) has a 9-night Reef and Rainforest itinerary to Belize featuring three nights in a rainforest lodge and five nights on the island of Ambergris Caye, including snorkelling at the famous Hol Chan Cut and visiting the Lamanai Mayan Ruins. From ￡2,395pp, including international flights.

Bay Islands, Honduras

Honduras is only ever in the news for crime and chaos. Notwithstanding, spring-breaking Americans – hardly known for being intrepid – have long been jetting down to Roatán, the largest of the Bay Islands. White-sand beaches and good access to the reef (the diving is spectacular) are the chief draws, but sophisticated dining and smart beachfront hotels on secluded coves and private cayes make this a very light landing in “heavy” Central America.

Family-friendly resorts, the Black Pearl golf course, Mayan Eden nature preserve and the educational Roatán Institute for Marine Sciences round out the package. A boat zips you back to the mainland at La Ceiba, but this island holiday is best combined with Copán – perhaps the best of all the Mayan sites.

Central America Revealed (01932 424252, centralamericarevealed.co.uk) has a 12-night Guatemala & Honduras holiday featuring three nights in Antigua, two nights at Copán and seven nights on Roatán. From ￡2,695pp including international and domestic flights, transfers, hotel on a B&B basis and guided excursions.

Little Corn Island, Nicaragua

Just a short hop from the (surprisingly) former British Protectorate of the Mosquito Coast (alluding to the indigenous Miskito Amerindians rather than the bothersome biting pests) on mainland Nicaragua, the two Corn Islands are dreamy little dots of mango, coconut and breadfruit trees, strips of white sand, posh hotels with top chefs in exile, and no cars – or big planes to bother anyone.

Little Corn is marginally more exclusive, with lavish resort Yemaya (telegraph.co.uk/tt-yemaya-island-hideaway) pulling in the international jetset. There’s not much to do here, except take off in a 40-foot sailboat for some snorkelling or else swim, kayak or SUP out to the reef. Yoga and massages in a jungle setting encourage all-out relaxation. Restive Nicaragua is 50 miles away, but you really wouldn’t know.

Cox & Kings (020 3642 0861; coxandkings.co.uk) has a 7-night private Classic Nicaragua tour from ￡1,895pp including flights with United Airlines via Houston, private transfers, selected excursions and accommodation with breakfast daily. Add a 3-night extension to Yemaya on Little Corn Island from ￡995pp.

Baracoa, Cuba

Far from – and nothing like – Havana and the tourist honeypots of the west and centre, Baracoa is a small, spread-out town beneath the dramatic tabletop hill of El Yunque. The surrounding area is lush, with several major rivers fed by a watershed in the Sierra Maestra mountains – the base for the Cuban revolution. Nearby is Alejandro de Humboldt National Park, its name honouring the 1800-01 visit of Alexander von Humboldt. Here there are good trails as well as the opportunity to meet local coffee growers. Back in Baracoa, enjoy a fish stew at Las Terrazas and a superb vegan buffet at the wonderful Baracoando. The high road over to Guantanamo and Santiago is one of the best drives in Cuba.

Steppes Travel (01258 787 512, steppestravel.com) has an eastern Cuba-focused holiday, taking in Santiago de Cuba, Bayamo and Baracoa, with a hike in the Sierra Maestra, starting from ￡4,835pp not including flights. Flights from the UK to Havana with Aeromexico start from ￡620 via Mexico (aeromexico.com). Holguin is best for Baracoa and the east and flights with Air Canada via Toronto cost from ￡730 (aircanada.com).

Puerto Rico

Bouncing back from the two devastating hurricanes, Irma and Maria, of September 2017 has not been easy for the “unincorporated territory of the United States” which found itself feeling very independent indeed in the aftermath. But puertorique?os are resilient and once again the island is open for business, and pleasure.

Famous in the States, but almost undiscovered by Brits, it has all the Caribbean classics: coral reefs, alluring beaches, swanky hotels, happening smaller islands such as Vieques, labyrinthine mangroves, giant fern-filled forests, succulent cuisine (here in the form of lechoneras which specialise in suckling pig), a thumping music scene (reggaetón was born here while salsa arrived via NYC expats), coffee plantations and, in Old San Juan, a kind of Havana without the cracks: all colonial quaintness and Spanish-inflected architecture. Further afield are crumbling sugar refineries that once powered the island’s economy, coffee ranches and pre-Columbian Taíno sites. This is one for the contemporary British conquistador.

Hayes & Jarvis (01293 762 456, hayesandjarvis.co.uk) offers a Puerto Rico holiday with 7 nights at the four-star Sheraton Old Juan Hotel in San Juan on a room only basis. International return flights from the UK included. From ￡1,899pp.