GCDS RTW Fall 2022
“I don’t even know if I want to say what it was about now that we have fallen into this deep, dark hole,” GCDS designer Giuliano Calza said backstage, attempting to talk about his fall collection as the focus turns from fashion to the war in Europe. “The whole world is in such turmoil already, why do we do this?” he asked.
But Calza, like many, believes in the dream of fashion.
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While shut in during the pandemic, he said he watched a lot of movies, including Bram Stoker’s “Dracula” from 1992, “which I would have styled very differently,” he said with a smile.
So he put his fantasy, fetish-y spin on the gothic tale and its costumes by the late great Eiko Ishioka, who won an Oscar for the film.
Her vision dazzled, including a gold-leaf kabuki-style Dracula cape inspired by Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss” that’s on display at the Academy Museum in Los Angeles.
Calza’s vamp camp less so, but it was still some fun. He took Mina’s Victorian bustles, Lucy’s seductive off-the-shoulder silhouettes and Dracula’s cape, cummerbund and waistcoat into plasticky cosplay territory.
Perhaps he was channeling the English seaside village of Whitby that figures into the story into the exaggerated storybook sweater dress, pullover and balaclava. The genius of Margiela — and Nick Cave — certainly came to mind seeing the hairy, scary pink monster suit come down the runway. And spidery knit sets, sheer catsuits and embellished bodysuits for all genders, had a certain kitschy eroticism.
“It’s my vision to tell people to go beyond streetwear,” the designer said, acknowledging his work in the fantasy realm. Judging from the feathers and sparkles, crown-topped balaclavas and barely there bra tops being worn on sidewalks outside the shows in Milan this week, that isn’t such a stretch at all.
Launch Gallery: GCDS RTW Fall 2022
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