The genius technique of applying make-up on your skin without ageing it
It's common sense that pulling and tugging at your skin isn't good for you, nor is it good when it comes to preventing wrinkles. Whilst many women apply make-up to conceal their wrinkles or smooth out unwanted lines, the way you are applying your make-up could actually be giving you more wrinkles that you realise.
"It's really important to consider how you apply your make-up when you get to a certain age," says make-up artist Mary Greenwell. "So often, I see women pulling and tugging at their faces when it comes to applying and removing their make-up," says Greenwell. " It's terrible and can really exaggerate the ageing process," she says. At a recent beauty launch, Greenwell coined the term "knocking it in" when she was explaining how to best apply foundation and concealer which she says is one of her tricks when it comes to smart ageing.
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"Knocking it in, is a technique I use to apply base and foundation by gently tapping and pushing ( not pulling) the product into the pores of the skin with my fingers," says Greenwell. "This allows the product to literally become part of the skin and not ‘sit’ on top of your skin like some foundations, powders and concealers tend to."
How to apply your eye make-up
"My best piece of advice when It comes to applying eye makeup is to choose natural taupes and browns which enhance natural skin tones and when applying colours, avoid pulling or over stretching your eye area," advises Greenwell. " Ensure eyeshadows are well blended using a brush as this will ensure you can softly build up your pigment without damaging the eye area or encouraging wrinkles. Avoid harsh dark eyeliners as these can make eyes appear smaller and soft kohl eyeliners can also spread and melt into fine lines around the eye, further enhancing the lines we in fact want to hide. When applying eye cream or make-up around your eyes, you should always adopt a tap and pat motion as the eye area is one where the skin is thinnest.
How to apply your lip make-up
As we age, your lips can become thinner and less full so the main aim is of course, to make lips look fuller and plumper. "Avoid very dark lip shades as they can make lips appear smaller by drawing attention to the area," says Greenwell. "Use a lip liner that is a shade close to your natural lip colour - this will provide definition and help enhance your natural lip shape, without looking too dramatic," she says. When it comes to applying your lipstick colour, always apply straight from the bullet as it allows the lipstick to directly adhere to the natural contours of your lips. If you want to fake a fuller lip and add a bit more plumpness, using your liner, prep the lip and slightly over draw your shape but only every so slightly- too much and this can look tacky," says Mary.
Mary's Rules
Avoid aggressively removing eye make-up
Don't apply too much make-up
Avoid heavy thick foundations which will ultimately stick to skin and settle into any lines thus accentuating any signs of ageing.
Lightweight, hydrating and light reflecting bases and foundation are always best.
Avoid using harsh cleansing tools or brushes that will aggravate your skin
Avoid over pulling your lids when applying eyeliner
Use natural earthy and nude colours which enhance your natural beauty and skin-tone.
Use hands where possible. Personally I don’t use brushes, I much prefer using my hands and fingers. They are body temperature which allows products to soften into the skin, allows more delicate blending and don’t leave any streak marks.
Best suits-all make-up for a flawless finish
Sensai Glowing Base, ￡39
Packed with skin illuminating pearlescent pigments, the SENSAI Glowing Base imparts a gorgeous, healthy glow whilst providing the skin with moisture for a fresh look.
Charlotte Tilbury Lip Liner in Pillow Talk, ￡18
This flattering pink hue suits most skintones and is great if you want to fake a fuller pout.
Marc Jacobs (P)outliner in (Nude)ist, ￡18
'Nude(ist)' complements every color no matter how bright or bold. Its collagen-infused formula prevents feathering and smudging – making it perfect for all-day wear.
Sensai Silky Lip Gloss is a rich, silky gel that moisturises and protects while creating a glossy, youthful sheen and brilliant finish.
Chanel Multi-Effect Quadra Eyeshadow in Rivoli, ￡44
Four flattering shades that can be blended together or worn on their own.