An Irish idyll: getting away from it all at Ashford Castle's Hideaway Cottage
Set on the shores of Ireland's second-largest lake and with the 13th-century Ashford Castle as a backdrop, the intimate Hideaway Cottage provides all the romantic allure of a serene and secret countryside retreat with the amenities and conveniences of one of Europe's grandest luxury hotels.
The cottage
Once Ashford Castle’s boathouse, what is now the hotel’s Hideaway Cottage had fallen into complete disrepair by the time the estate was acquired by Bea and Stanley Tollman, owners of Red Carnation Hotels, in 2013.
Despite the collapsed roof and rotten floorboards, they saw potential in this outhouse on the shores of Lough Corrib, and set about converting it into the property’s most private accommodation. The one-bedroom abode welcomed its first overnight guests in 2016.
In gated grounds, with mature woodland on one side and the lake’s calm waters on the other, the cottage lives up to its name: couples enjoy complete seclusion and tranquillity even though the main castle building is less than five minutes’ walk away (bikes are on standby for cottage residents should they wish to explore more of the grounds, and a car can be arranged in a jiffy should inclement weather or mobility issues make an amble to the hotel unattractive).
Inside the building and alone at last, it’s easy to imagine you’ve taken up residency in a (well-off but humble) fisherman’s home. The building accommodates a generously sized bathroom (characterful in its finish with honey-coloured onyx and with WC and shower accessed via arched doors), hallway with integrated wardrobes and the bedroom and living area, with its dining table by the window.
The motley array of antiques and curios on show in this latter area include French Empire marquetry chests of drawers; a 20th-century four-fold European canvas screen; and 19th-century walnut armchairs covered in tapestry by Brunschwig & Fils; alongside ornate mirrors; a soft green couch; and, on the immense desk, a ceramic elephant.
Travellers who ordinarily stay in suites offered by major multinational brands will likely be accustomed to pleasant but intentionally restrained and indistinct interiors. That isn’t the case here, with the ensemble of objects so broad and varied, almost cluttered, that it really does feel as though someone has put on display an accumulation of random objects they have fallen in love with over time.
The assembly adds to the charm of the place, although it will likely prove inevitable that a few objects don’t curry your favour. For me it was the baby-blue Murano chandelier and a curious bejewelled design affixed to the ceiling, by David Faulkner Interiors.
I expect everyone, however, will be charmed by the view from the lancet window. The neverending Lough Corrib seems within touching distance and the west of Ireland’s mercurial weather patterns and shifting skies mean the vista is ever changing.
During rainy weather - a likely occurrence in this part of the world, whenever you might visit - guests can flick on the gas-powered fire, select an Irish whiskey or fix a G&T from the bar trolley and settle down for the evening; should a stretch of sunny days take hold, a waterside landing by the property can be reappropriated as a summer terrace and used for sunset drinks and private, romantic dinners.
What to expect
With the gates closed behind them, Hideaway Cottage guests can pretend they’ve left the worries of the world behind for a few days - but without having to lift a finger for themselves while they’re at it.
A dedicated Hideaway Assistant is always on standby, and an impromptu al fresco seafood lunch, abundant with Irish crab and salmon and Ashford Castle’s very own caviar, can be arranged should good weather make an appearance. Jack Murphy wellington boots and jackets are thoughtfully gifted to guests, so exploring the estate remains an option in more inclement conditions.
A simple wooden boat is tethered to the front of the cottage and the sight of it bobbing up and down from the window is a constant enticement to get out on the water. Ashford’s guide Frank can oblige and there’s no better man to sail with - he built the boat himself, from European larch, oak and teak, and knows Lough Corrib inside out. Like so many of the truly charming staff, he’s been at Ashford for years and clearly loves the property.
It’s a pleasure to listen to his stories about life at the castle - and to admire this Irish landmark and the diminutive cottage from afar - as his handmade boat circles a smattering of the hundreds of islands that dot the lake, most of them heaving with beech, ash and silver fir trees.
Standout feature
Hideaway Cottage guests can expect truly world-class and considerate service from an exceptionally capable and committed staff, but then again this is something that’s available to everybody to everyone who stays at the property. For the cottage specifically, the setting is sufficiently serene and peaceful to feels like a true retreat. Expect to sleep well, rest fully and leave replenished.
Not so keen
As outlined above, I didn’t like some of the cottage’s decorative elements. The solitary small window in the living area, combined with the region's often overcast skies, means the cottage can be somewhat dark; couples travelling with lots of luggage will find on-site storage inadequate.
The hotel
Undoubtedly among Europe’s grandest hotels, and a personal favourite of mine, Ashford Castle has a history and grandeur that is unmatched in Ireland. The building dates from 1228 and its succession of subsequent extensions provide a chronology of sorts for the different fashionable architectural styles and decorative mores of the age.
The present-day property pays tribute to that heritage - history tours can be arranged and a small museum documents notable moments past - but also provides the amenities luxury consumers have come to expect. Sophisticated tasting menus (and an excellent breakfast) are served at the George V dining room; a modern spa offers skillfully administered treatments from Natura Bissé and Voya; a plush cinema offers daily film screenings.
Beyond the building’s boundaries, the 350-acre estate additionally offers fishing and sailing, golfing and horse-riding, alongside archery, tennis, falconry and more. The array of activities on offer is vast enough to ensure pretty much every visitor should find something that tickles their interest.
Location
On the Galway-Mayo border and by the pretty village of Cong, Ashford Castle is an ideal gateway to the best of the west of Ireland.
Unblemished, serene and scenic, Connemara is just beyond the estate’s borders; the Wild Atlantic Way coastal driving route is just a little further (Ashford Castle would make an ideal pit stop for travellers wishing to drive the entire route over a week or two). Knock Airport and lively Galway city are about an hour away apiece, with Shannon Airport accessible in just under two hours’ driving time.
The details
B&B accommodation at The Hideaway Cottage starts from €3,000 (￡2,700) per night on a B&B basis. Rooms at Ashford Castle start at €315 (ashfordcastle.com; +353 94 954 6003).
For more on holidaying in Ireland, visit ireland.com.
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