Grill like a chef this Labor Day: Brian Lewis’ charmoula for an ever better BBQ
Labor Day celebrates the dawn of my favorite season: Fall. Though it's officially still a few weeks away, at least in the northeast United States, there's a clear chill in the air, that harbinger that tells us that autumn is on the way.Before we turn on spooky movies, curl up with PSLs and embrace all the best that sweater weather has to offer, though, let's celebrate Labor Day — as well as the concluding of summer and grilling at its finest.
To do so, Salon Food spoke with Chef Brian Lewis of Full House Hospitality Group about his Charmoula Marinade, a rich, incredibly flavorful addition to whatever protein or vegetable you opt to coat with it. Chef Lewis aims for lamb chops, but you can use whatever you have on hand!
Chermoula (sometimes also spelled charmoula) is used both as a marinade and a sauce and hails from Northern Africa. Many often liken it to chimichurri.
As Lewis puts it, the marinade is "one of my favorite zesty marinades – perfect for anything on the grill! This smoky and full-bodied marinade will add layers of flavor and depth to the simplest of your quick grilling needs. Excellent with lamb, pork, chicken, shrimp, salmon and even portabella mushrooms."
Salon Food also took the opportunity to ask the chef about his career, his favorite food memories, grilling at large and much more.
The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length.
Hello! For those unfamiliar with it, how would you describe the flavor profile of charmoula?
The flavor profile of this marinade is fresh from the cilantro, spicy from the different spices like garlic, coriander and cumin, plus acidic from the lemon juice.
Do you think charmoula is better used as a marinade or as a finishing sauce?
I prefer it as a marinade on seafood.
Should all herbs in charmoula be fresh, or can you use dried?
Always use fresh herbs, no matter what you are making. Using fresh herbs gives better and stronger flavor. Dried herbs have very small amounts of flavor due to the drying process.
What's your personal favorite way to use the marinade?
For seafood such as octopus, monkfish and lobster or for meat, such as lamb or steak.
What are your favorite things to grill?
In the summertime, I love grilling pretty much anything. Right now, my favorite thing would be eggplants, with a little miso, served with ricotta, tomatoes and shio kombu.
You've had such a storied career, working alongside everyone from Jean Louis Palladin and Marco Pierre White to Eric Ripert and even Richard Gere! I went to college in Westchester, so I'm partial to Mona Trattoria, of course. Is there a particular experience, restaurant, or person whom you hold in the highest regard in terms of your career and growth? Or did they all equally contribute in influence?
Each experience in my career, from working with Jean Louis Palladin at the Watergate Hotel, Marco Pierre White at The Criterion & Mirabelle and Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin, to collaborating with Richard Gere at Bedford Post Inn, has uniquely contributed to my growth.
Jean Louis Palladin taught me the importance of sourcing quality ingredients and innovation, Marco Pierre White instilled discipline and excellence under pressure, Eric Ripert influenced my approach to seafood preparation with precision and Richard Gere broadened my perspective on hospitality.
While it's hard to single out one above the others, they all equally influenced my culinary journey and shaped me into the chef I am today. Mona Trattoria and similar establishments continue to inspire me with their deep-rooted traditions and commitment to quality.
You've been on Food Network a few times, even beating Bobby Flay — do you think you'll further pursue additional food TV opportunities in the future?
Absolutely! Competing on Food Network and having the opportunity to beat Bobby Flay was an incredible experience. I would love to pursue more opportunities in food television. It's a fantastic platform to share my passion for cooking, connect with a wider audience and inspire others to explore the culinary world.
Can you talk a bit about OKO and the Cottage, as well as Full House Hospitality Group overall?
In 2015, I embarked on my own, founding Full House Hospitality Group, which comprises OKO and The Cottage. These establishments embody warmth, tradition and seasonal inspiration. The Cottage, my upscale restaurant located in Westport and Greenwich, Connecticut, garnered an "excellent" review from The New York Times within four months of its debut, lauded for its sophisticated menu served in a cozy setting.
Similarly, OKO, a testament to my passion for Japanese cuisine, received acclaim, with Forbes praising its Westport branch as comparable to Manhattan's best. This success led to OKO's expansion into Rye, New York and inclusion in the MICHELIN Guide’s list of New Plate Establishments in New York in 2021.
Tell me a bit about your "pedigree," if you will, in the industry?
I pursued my formal education at The Culinary Institute of America, earning an associate degree in occupational studies, followed by a bachelor’s degree in food service management from Johnson & Wales University. I embarked on an extensive journey of hands-on training, apprenticing under luminaries like Chef Jean Louis Palladin at the Watergate Hotel, Marco Pierre White at The Criterion & Mirabell and Chef Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin, among others.
For the next 15 years, I traveled the country, working back and forth between New York City and the West Coast, cooking my way up the ranks from sous chef to chef de cuisine and eventually executive chef, with some of the country’s most celebrated talents. I then went on to spearhead Richard Gere's Bedford Post Inn as its founding executive chef, earning accolades such as Esquire’s "Best New Restaurant" list in 2009, as well as high praise with an “Excellent” review from The New York Times.
Why do you cook? What stands out for you as a formative moment that got you into cooking or food at large?
I cook because it is where I am happiest and truly feel at home. My journey into the kitchen began at age 13 after a football injury redirected my path. The culture and experiences in the kitchen have profoundly shaped my character, passion, work ethic and identity as a Chef.
I approach my work with intense passion, purpose and a meticulous focus on detail and organization. Leading with clear communication and purpose is central to my philosophy. The kitchen has been my companion, shelter and drive, fueling my endless passion for food and the culinary world.
My life as a Chef is a lifelong commitment, requiring constant work and resilience, much like a marriage. I continuously strive to improve, drawing inspiration from ingredients, seasons, traditions and team collaboration. I avoid following trends, seeking originality instead and respect traditions while breaking rules to foster growth and creativity.
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What is your favorite cooking memory?
One of my most cherished cooking memories dates back to when I was 15. I was a prep cook at Mona Trattoria in Somers, a high-end restaurant that was a cornerstone of my childhood. The restaurant was owned by Mona, whose husband was the mayor of Bologna. Mona, revered as both matriarch and chef, took me under her wing. She taught me how to make pasta by hand on a plywood board and how to craft her famous tortellini filled with a traditional Bolognese sauce. Those early lessons from Mona ignited my passion for cooking and marked the beginning of my culinary journey.
What’s your biggest tip for cutting down on food waste?
Don’t over order and buy more than you need. In a kitchen, there isn’t any waste, only a byproduct.
How do you practice sustainability?
By using what's in season and letting nature do its thing without forcing things to grow faster. I work closely with local farmers and understand how they contribute to growing the beautiful ingredients we get to work with.
Charmoula Grilled Lamb Chops Recipe Prep Time 10 minutes (plus 2 hours and 30 minutes to chill and rest) Cook Time 10 minutes
Ingredients
1 tsp. kosher salt
? cup fresh lemon juice
? cup water
? cup extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves fresh garlic, peeled
? cup cilantro leaves
? cup mint leaves
? cup flat-leaf parsley
3 Tbsp smoked paprika
1 Tbsp Hungarian paprika
1 Tbsp coriander
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp ground fennel seed
? tsp cayenne pepper
Protein of your choosing (Chef Lewis calls for lamb chops)
Curried couscous, mint, pine nuts, currants, for garnish
Directions
Place all of the ingredients (except for protein and garnishes) in a blender and blend on medium speed until thoroughly blended and smooth.
Wrap aluminum foil neatly around the top of the bone of the lamb chops (Four Story Hill farms is Chef Lewis’ favorite for lamb, based in Honesdale PA), exposing all parts of the meat for grilling. Place the lamb chops on a medium sheet tray and baste with a liberal amount of the charmoula marinade, about 1 tablespoon per chop.
Refrigerate for up to two hours before broiling. Remove the lamb chops from the refrigerator thirty minutes before broiling (this will allow for even cooking of the meat).
Preheat the broiler to medium. Season the lamb chops with a sprinkle of kosher salt.
Cook until internal temperatures reaches desired temp.
Accompany with curried couscous, mint, pine nuts and currants.
