How to Gua Sha the Right Way, According to Experts
A natural alternative to injectables.
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If you've been on Instagram or TikTok, you've probably noticed that one of the most ancient beauty tools is taking over the world—one contoured and plump face at a time. Yes, we're talking about gua sha (a.k.a. the Botox of the East).
Fans of the tool report real, noticeable results, like firmer, smoother skin and less acne, blemishes, and eczema. It sounds too good to be true, right? Well, we consulted skincare and traditional Chinese medicine practicing experts Sandra Lanshin Chiu and Anna Lam. They each assure us the benefits abound. The experts also helped us find the most effective methods to use the tool in order to get the best results.
Meet Our Expert
Sandra Lanshin Chiu, L.Ac., is an acupuncturist, Chinese herbalist, and the founder of Lanshin, a healing studio.
Anna Lam is the founder of GingerChi, a natural boutique in New York that carries its own line of gua sha tools and jade rollers.
Read on for everything you need to know about facial gua sha—including what it is, how it works, and how to use it.
What Is Gua Sha?
Gua sha is a traditional Chinese medicine practice that uses a heart-shaped tool to scrape the skin. While facial gua sha is relatively new, the gua sha tool has been traditionally used on the body, says Chiu. "Facial gua sha uses a smooth tool, often jade or quartz, to slowly stroke the face and neck, improving circulation and releasing tension," Chiu adds.
According to Chiu, the practice dates back centuries—some records suggest as far back as the Paleolithic era. "Historically, tools were made from various types of materials like stones, coins, and horns. Gua sha was used to treat pain and illnesses as serious as cholera," says Chiu.
Today, gua sha—as Chiu explains—is still used by traditional Chinese medicine practitioners to "treat pain and boost immune function."
How Gua Sha Works
"The gua sha technique, which translates to 'scrape wind,' was primarily used on the body to release toxins and relieve pain in tired, sore, or injured muscles," says Lam. "By 'scraping' with repeated strokes on the surface of the skin, the gua sha helps stimulate new blood flow." Lam adds that it also helps draw out stagnation, which can promote metabolic cell repair and healing.
Fear not, because while the traditional practice for your body is much more aggressive, resulting in bruising, Chiu says facial gua sha is meant to be performed at a much slower speed with much less pressure. In fact, when it comes to your face, Chiu advises to take the "less is more approach."
The Benefits of Gua Sha
Consistent practice can lead to noticeable results over time, says Lam—adding that this will, of course, show on your skin. But the pros of using gua sha aren't just cosmetic.
Chiu adds that this practice was designed to promote healthy circulation of muscles and tissues that feed the skin. "I look at it as a health practice that has 'cosmetic side effects,'" says Chiu. "Improved circulation creates visible changes."
According to the experts, some of the changes you might see thanks to gua sha include:
Glowing skin
Softer lines
Smoother complexion
Reduced sagging
Sculpted and lifted facial features
Accelerated healing of acne
Fewer knots in the face, neck, and shoulders
Relief from headaches, sinus congestion, and jaw pain/tightness
Tips
Do not use gua sha directly on inflamed or open and picked skin. Instead, cover the area with a pimple patch before using.
How to Use the Tool
1. Prep Your Skin
"Gua sha is best done after both cleansing the face and applying a moisturizer or facial oil," says Lam. "Gua massage not only gives your skin a 'workout' but also helps products' nutrients absorb better into the skin." Since this practice boosts your skin's absorption, you want to make sure it's not taking in germs, bacteria, or debris. The oil will help the tool more naturally (and less painfully) glide across your face and neck.
2. Scrape Your Skin
If you're new to gua sha, the good news is that using the tool is relatively straightforward.
"Hold the gua sha tool with the curved side to your face and glide it gently up and out, starting with the neck, jawline, chin, and around the mouth," instructs Lam, noting that you should do this between three and five times per area. "Then sweep across your cheeks and gently glide under the eyes, across your eyebrows, and from your forehead up to your hairline."
Tips
Chiu notes that slow strokes with medium pressure are the most effective way to see results. Too hard and fast can result in "sha," or red marks.
3. Set a Routine
Remember, you'll see the best results if there's some sort of regularity to your gua sha practice. As for how often you should do this treatment, Lam recommends at least a few times a week. On the other hand, Chiu tells us you can gua sha daily. Although you can practice gua sha at any point during the day, incorporating it into your nightly facial routine is a great way to stick to the practice, notes Chiu.
How to Choose a Tool
Lam suggests picking the tool you feel most drawn to, as there's no one model that works best. "They should all be carved with curves, rounded knobs, and points to fit within the curvatures of the face" to apply pressure on meridian points or pressure points. Traditional Chinese medicine practitioners believe vital life energy—known as Qi—flows through these points, adds Lam.
The same goes for the crystal you choose for your gua sha: Find your favorite and stick with it. There's rose quartz, jade, amethyst, and tiger's eye too. "Each stone is known to have different healing properties, but all should provide similar results as it's more about the gua sha technique than the crystal of choice," says Lam.
However, Lam adds that jade is traditionally used because it's cool to the touch and has detoxifying properties.
Gua Sha vs. Jade Roller
Gua sha tools and jade rollers often get grouped into the same holistic facial massage bucket; however, they bare some key differences. A jade roller is a simple tool—with one shape and one motion—often used to achieve more effective product penetration, lymphatic circulation, and overall relaxation. On the other hand, a gua sha tool has a unique shape with different edges that can contour your face, improve circulation, penetrate products, and relax tense muscles. Its benefits come from the motion rather than the material.
According to Chiu, the strokes applied during the gua sha process stretch the skin, which leads to myofascial release (face muscle relaxation and improvement of circulation). The scraper—as Lam notes—is used in stroking motion "over the facial curvatures in an attempt to bring new blood to the surface and promote lymphatic drainage."
"Gua sha relaxes tension in facial muscles, which can cause lines. It's kind of like exercise for your face—with regular use, gua sha can tone skin and promote increased skin elasticity," Lam adds.
The Bottom Line
After consistent practice, facial gua sha can wield benefits like tighter, brighter, tauter, and smoother skin. Plus, according to traditional Chinese medicine, gua sha improves circulation and creates healthy energy. Embracing the practice may leave you feeling good—both inside and out.
Frequently asked Questions
Can gua sha replace injectables?
While gua sha won't deliver the same immediate and drastic results as injectables, such as Botox and other fillers, practicing gua sha correctly will create a plumpness in your skin, with Chiu adding, "I think for those who feel hesitant about fillers, it's worth trying facial gua sha first."
Can I do gua sha on dry skin?
Using gua sha on too dry of skin can lead to irritation, suggests Chiu. She recommends trying a gentle facial mist or alcohol-free toner to add moisture to your skin beforehand.
Is gua sha painful?
Not if done properly. Remember, it's important to use light strokes when practicing gua sha. If you push harder, it doesn't mean that it will work faster or better. Pressing too hard can hurt and irritate the skin.
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