How Alessandro Michele Went From a Shy Guy to a Total G at Gucci
Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, at the LACMA benefit earlier this month. Photo: Getty Images
Gucci’s Golden Boy is continuing to bask in the spotlight. After less than a year as the creative director of the luxe Italian label, it was announced today that Alessandro Michele will receive the International Award from the British Fashion Council. The accolade is not that surprising, given the soft-spoken designer’s universal popularity these days. It’s impossible to avoid the chatter that has surrounded the brand since his appointment. Let’s go through a quick 2015 timeline:
January 19: Following the dismissal of Frida Gianninni, Gucci presents its Fall 2015 menswear collection as a collective. The clothes are completely devoid of any of Gianninni’s jet set influence — ethereal, romantic, and representing a new sort of androgyny — it was reported that the in-house team did a full reboot in five days. The press seem initially divided. “Some skeptics noted what they considered borrowings from other, buzzier labels, including Prada, J.W. Anderson and Saint Laurent, whose punky irreverence seemed to cast the longest shadow,” wrote Matthew Schneier in the New York Times. Alessandro Michele takes a bow at the end of the runway with his team.
January 21: The big wigs at Kering (Gucci’s parent company) liked what they saw. Michele is named creative director of the brand after working at the label for 13 years. (He was originally hired by Tom Ford, working with the famed designer as well as his successors, Alessandra Facchinetti, and Giannini.)
February 25: Michele shows his Fall 2015 womenswear collection, which really just feels like an extension of the men’s show. There is still some confusion among the critics as the new Gucci girl is no longer a sexpot but rather a real life version of Margot Tenenbaum. Sheer tops, men in women’s suits, oversized furs, berets, and furry sandals all become part of the new manner of dress. “As playful and irreverent as it was, it lacked a bit for sophistication, which is as much a part of the Italian house’s heritage as the interlocking G’s that appeared on the new, rectangular bag shape,” writes Style.com’s Nicole Phelps.
June 4: For his third official outing, Michele decides to take his show on the road. The designer wisely heads to New York to present his Resort collection, perhaps to take on his biggest detractors in his own polite way. On a hot summer day, he shuts down 22nd street and in an open-air gallery, guests including Dakota Johnson, Karen Elson, and Sam Taylor Wood watch as 62 models saunter over from across the street into the show space with more retro-tinged looks. It becomes clear that this is his thing, except the pieces seem a bit more tailored and refined. That evening there is an after-party at the NYC institution Bowery Bar, it is all passed plates and revelry. Michele smokes in the back among his circle of friends while greeting well wishers. It’s a good vibe.
July 28: Gucci reports that revenue for the first half of the year is up 12 percent. Kering brass are beyond thrilled and even give Michele a shout out. “We are particularly satisfied with the progress at Gucci and the positive reception given to the brand’s new creative direction,” says chairman and CEO Francois Henri Pinault.
September 2015: Michele has a banner month, introducing another well-received womenswear collection and designing costumes for Madonna’s “Rebel Heart” tour. He is officially the new hotness. His influence is felt on the street as well. You can nary step out on the street without witnessing someone (male or female) wearing those fur-lined Gucci slides.
October 2015: At a presentation lead by Net-a-Porter’s Sarah Rutson, the Vice President of Global Buying waxes poetic about how Gucci is a best-seller for the luxury e-tailer. She praises him as the industry’s great eccentric, attracting all kind of fashion magpies. She is not alone. Editors of every stripe are now completely enchanted by his vintage-inspired pieces with a twist. He is credited as bringing artistry back into fashion.
November 7: Per the annual custom, Gucci sponsors the LACMA benefit in Los Angeles. Michele dresses nearly all of the fashionable attendees including Dakota Fanning, Gia Coppola, Salma Hayek, Jared Leto and many more. The designer wears a black suit with floral embroidery and carries himself differently on the carpet than in previous social situations. A bit more prideful perhaps, he puffs out his chest instead of hiding his face in his Jesus-y long hair.
Current day: In the current social climate, speaking ill of Gucci is akin to that Saturday Night Live skit where a husband admits that he’s not that into Beyoncé and the Beygency suddenly appears and drags him from his home. It’s. just. not. done. Whether or not his influence will resonate as much in two, three seasons remains to be seen, but for now long live King Michele.
TBC…
Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and Pinterest for nonstop inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.
