How the humble t-shirt became a ￡200 luxury must-have

The t-shirt - simple, stylish, iconic. Few, perhaps no, garments are more ubiquitous in the 21st century wardrobe. It is the style around which myriad looks are built. Jeans and loafers, undone tailoring, slip dress? Add a tee to complete the look.

The t-shirt started life as men's underwear, during World War One- the name first appears in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel This Side of Paradise, published in 1920. The moniker comes from the shape of the style, laid flat - body = vertical line, sleeves = crossbar. But its transition from undergarment to day-wear would occur some three decades later, via Hollywood icons Marlon Brando and James Dean and movies like A Streetcar Named Desire and Rebel Without a Cause.

Adopted by the music and then advertising industries, the t-shirt became both a musician’s uniform and a speedy route to making a brand or political statement. The 1980s saw it worn with tailoring (see Miami Vice) and in 1991, Karl Lagerfeld sent white t-shirts down the runway, layered under Chanel’s iconic jackets.

Over the years, screen sirens - Brigitte Bardot - and supermodels - Cindy Crawford - have cemented fashion’s love affair with the tee. The rise of athleisure and sports luxe, through the 1990s and into the last couple of decades, has only served to boost its position as wardrobe essential. From Supreme and Yeezy’s sell-out streetwear styles to Gucci’s cult logo tees, never has the t-shirt been more popular. This spring, the Fashion and Textile Museum even dedicated its latest exhibition to the garment: ‘T-shirt: cult - culture - subversion’ exhibition.

As Matchesfashion.com’s global buying director, Natalie Kingham puts it, ‘simple and unassuming, a t-shirt often works as the linchpin of an outfit.’ This season, the online luxury destination  launched a dedicated t-shirt studio- testament to the garment’s ever-growing popularity - ‘we have always searched for the perfect white tee from our brands, we wanted to build a t-shirt studio so that our customers could find the perfect tee for every occasion,’ says Kingham - ‘with denim, underneath a tailored jacket or a dress, to pare down bold colour and prints.’

Hunting down the perfect silhouette can be tricky, as Justin Bieber knows. Last year, his stylist, Karla Welch, was inspired to create a line of timeless, and affordable, white tees with brand Hanes, when Biebs complained his dream long-line style was alluding him. And the first release of Vogue Australia editor, Christina Centenara’s new line, Wardrobe NYC, includes a t-shirt as one of a limited number of ‘luxury essentials’.

The evolution of the t-shirt has seen a host of brands elevating the unassuming silhouette via precision cutting and luxe fabrications. Launched last year, New York-based t-shirt brand, Frances de Lourdes is a case in point - the label’s collection of tees, tanks and camis are crafted in soft cashmere and silk blends, in neutral, nuanced colours.

The label was born out of a desire for founder and creative director, Alejandra Echeverria to recreate the mood and style of ‘loveworn vintage tees’. ‘I’ve always worn and collection vintage t-shirts’, she says, ‘I wanted to replace them and I couldn’t find anything so I decided to make them myself - the simplest pieces are often the hardest to design - the thing with vintage tees is the fabric becomes so soft and delicious.’

Silhouettes range from oversized, to fitted, in round and v-neck cuts. The aim with every piece was, ‘something that felt put together, but had the ease that comes with wearing a t-shirt - super soft and comfortable,’ Echeverria says. Signature styles include the ‘Johnny’ - based on an old mens’ t-shirt that has shrunk over time’, and the garcon, ‘based on the proportions of a little boys t-shirt, but adapted, eased’.

With prices starting at ￡200, these are t-shirts don’t come cheap, but  France de Lourdes tees are intended to offer versatility, slotting seamlessly into your wardrobe. ‘We’re inspired by women and how they wear clothes’, say Echeverria, ‘they’re meant to be very versatile - from day to day or sleeping, to throwing on a nice earring and wearing in the evening - that appeals to me, to my life - something that goes with you through the day’ - aka the perfect t-shirt.