In My Jewellery Box: Laurence Coste
Parisian jewellery designer Laurence Coste moved to London over 30 years ago and studied History of Art at Christie’s. That proved inspirational for the jewellery she had been designing for friends as a hobby, and in 2006 she launched her own brand.
In 2006 she opened a store on Chelsea’s Walton Street, which became known for its colourful displays of clip-on earrings. Inspired by Loulou de la Falaise, Coste’s jewellery is often larger-than-life, fusing together natural materials such as pearls, coral and semi-precious stones with tassels, crystals and beads.
From vintage jewellery to her own design lovingly crafted in France, she shares the most precious pieces from her collection.
Antique Carnet de Bal
When I was young, I used to spend my summers between my two grandmothers: one lived in Brittany by the sea and the other one in Normandy in the middle of the countryside.
When I stayed in Normandy I would spend a lot of time playing in the attic, opening up all the old suitcases and trunks. It was magical; I’d find old dresses and uniforms and would spend hours dressing up in them, imagining my own world.
I found this ‘carnet de bal’ hidden in a draw in an old desk. I didn’t know what it was but I knew straightaway from the initials that I’d found a precious, personal treasure. I was so excited when I discovered that the little blue turquoise ball on the side was the top of a tiny pencil. I opened up the case and there was a list inside in beautiful handwriting, with the date 3 November 1895.
I immediately rushed to show it to my grandmother, who explained what a ‘carnet de bal’ is: a card bearing the names of a woman’s prospective partners at a formal dance. She promised it to me then, but as it's such a valuable piece I wasn't allowed to wear it until I was 18. I have cherished it ever since.
Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger ivory rose brooch
This Jean Schlumberger ivory rose brooch, designed for Tiffany in the 1950s, was given to me by my mother-in-law at my engagement dinner in Paris in 1986. The rose had been given to her at her engagement by her mother, so when she gave it to me in the original black cardboard box, it felt very symbolic as I was being accepted into the family.
Not only was the brooch a family heirloom, Jean Schlumberger was also my mother-in-law’s distant cousin. I felt that my creativity and passion for jewellery design would be greatly encouraged in my new family.
The rose represents youth and will always remind me of a French poem by Ronsard written in the 16th century called ‘Mignonne allons voir si la rose’ which suggests that beauty is ephemeral.
Making jewellery has been my way of preserving the beauty I perceive around me and making it last forever. I always thought that this rose could have made a great ring but it would be unthinkable to change it. Instead, I love wearing it on a ribbon as a choker on the side of my neck.
Ilias Lalaounis ring
I first came to London as a newlywed in 1987 and embarked on a History of Art course at Christie’s. It was there that I noticed this Ilias Lalaounis ring on the hands of a beautiful Greek girl sitting in the row in front of me.
I found the ring extremely elegant as it flatters the fingers beautifully and elongates the hand. At the time, this ring was extremely different to anything I had seen before. It was pure and sculptural with a modern edge to it that I instantly loved. I felt so drawn to it that I simply had to ask her where it was from - we became great friends as a consequence.
My husband gave me my own Lalaounis ring the following year on our wedding anniversary. I was told later that the ring represented fertility and fecundity - it has served me well as I am now a proud mother to four wonderful children.
Laurence Coste Ginkgo necklace
This is the very first necklace I designed and commissioned from a wonderful French craftsman who I have been working with ever since. I find it has exceptional character and gives even the simplest outfit personality; you can wear it over a plain dress or shirt and voila! I see it as piece of sculpture and always take it with me on my travels as it can dress up anything.
Originally from Japan, the Ginkgo tree is extremely special as not only are they exotic but also have strong roots that enabled some of them to survive the atomic bomb on Hiroshima in 1945. Since then, the Ginkgo Biloba (which is a living fossil) has become a symbol of resilience and survival. I love the metaphor behind these trees and the beauty of its origins and story.
This necklace was the beginning of an extremely symbolic collection and it has become a signature piece for me. I have seen many pieces of jewellery inspired by the Ginkgo tree and its unique leaves, but none have the same sense of movement and lightness as those created by my craftsman, Jean-Marie. I hope they will go on to become collectable items, as I do not know anyone else who could work metal as well as he does.
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Vintage frog brooch
This frog represents a new chapter in my life and an exciting new beginning. It was given to me by my current boyfriend as a Christmas present. He is a true English “Prince Charming” and always teases me by calling me his “little froggy”.
He knows I love jewellery with a story behind it, and found this in a vintage jewellery stall in Gray’s Market, off Bond Street. I have always loved frogs as they remind me of one of my favourite childhood fairytales, and they have played a significant role in many of my jewellery lines.