Are Keratin Treatments Really Formaldehyde-Free?
In early 2011, the GH Institute found high levels of formaldehyde in several brands of salon hair-smoothing formulas that claimed to be free of the carcinogen (it can also irritate the eyes, nose, and throat). We tested four keratin hair treatments (Brazilian Blowout, Marcia Teixeira, Keratin Complex by Coppola and Global Keratin Light Wave) and discovered the toxic chemical in all of the products tested. We followed up with an investigation of the anti-formaldehyde claims on a new at-home version, Salon Favorite Do-It-Yourself Treatment Kit, and found that although it did not contain formaldehyde, it did contain the chemical ghlutaraldehyde, which is in the same family.
In May of 2011, members of Congress called on the FDA for a voluntary recall of two hair-straightening treatments sold in salons under the name Brazilian Blowout. They cited a study that found formaldehyde — a known carcinogen — well above the recommended threshold in the products. At the time, we advised readers to avoid keratin treatments, whether you're a salon worker or just a salon-goer who wants straight, shiny hair.
But now, there are several new treatments on the market sold as "formaldehyde-free." With the help of an independent lab, we set out to test six popular salon products to see if they delivered.
Our new findings
No formaldehyde was detected in five of the brands we analyzed (see below). A small amount was found in the Magic Sleek Relaxer and Finisher, but it was below the threshold considered safe by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, an independent safety panel.
But do formaldehyde-free formulas work?
We spoke to a few salon owners who told us that in general, the treatments do smooth frizz, but how well they straighten is dictated by a client's hair type. "We use different formulas depending on texture, wave, and whether hair is dyed," explains Federico Calce, owner of Federico Hair & Spa at the Benjamin in New York City.
Tips for safe straightening
If you're sensitive or concerned about exposure to any formaldehyde, ask your stylist to use one of our formaldehyde-free recommendations below (ask to see the container to avoid any mixups, as some companies have formulas with and without formaldehyde). And inquire about whether the salon provides proper ventilation; even tiny amounts of formaldehyde might add up to toxic levels in the air.
Keratin Treatment Brands to Ask For
Brazilian Blowout Zero+ Professional Smoothing Solution
Cezanne Perfect Finish Keratin Smoothing Treatment
Kerasilk Keratin Shape and Smooth Intense by Goldwell
Pravana Perfection SmoothOut Solution
Peter Coppola Legacy Keratin Concept
A version of this story originally appeared in the April 2015 issue of Good Housekeeping.
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