Kimora Lee Simmons Grows Up
Looks from KLS Kimora Lee Simmons Pre-Fall 2015. Photo: Courtesy of Christian MacDonald
“This is a very classic dress,” Kimora Lee Simmons says, as a model in an elbow-length compact knit dress breezes by in the airy space where her pre-fall presentation is taking place, “but with the cutout look, there’s no skin here, she’s not showing anything but it’s still very sexy.” The dress in question, a color-blocked number in shades of cream, black, and blush, hints at revealing skin, but does not betray its modesty. It’s a detail that Simmons seems particularly proud of, perhaps because it is such a departure from her previous labels’ look, who relied on a fabulosity approach–think lace, gold embellishments, bright pink, and skin, skin, skin. Her line, KLS Kimora Lee Simmons, has undergone a makeover, and is launching for Pre Fall 2015, with a decidedly more mature look.
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Looks from KLS Kimora Lee Simmons Pre-Fall 2015. Photo: Courtesy of Christian MacDonald
The collection, which has been two years in the making, involves an all-star team including superstar stylist Karl Templer, known for his work at Calvin Klein and Alexander Wang as well as for being the creative director at Interview magazine. “I worked with Karl a couple of times on other projects, he has a great spirit,” Simmons says, when asked how Templer came on board the project. Simmons also chose make-up artist Pat McGrath, and photographer David Sims for the accompanying campaign, in which she is also the model (some habits are hard to break.)
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Looks from KLS Kimora Lee Simmons Pre-Fall 2015. Photo: Courtesy of Christian MacDonald
“This is where I am right now,” Simmons says, “and I want the woman that has been with me throughout all these years to love it and trust me in this evolution.” Her trepidation is understandable, there are no visible logos in this collection, no denim, and no sweatsuits. Instead there are double layered silk blouses with leather insets, perfectly tailored high-waist trousers that fit like a second skin, and monochromatic long sleeve shift dresses with architectural details. Baby Phat this is most certainly not.
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Looks from The Row’s Spring 2015 Collection. Photo: Courtesy of The Row
With this collection, Simmons is attempting to enter the world of serious fashion. In a move similar to what Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen did with their label The Row, or Victoria Beckham did with her eponymous label, Simmons is leaving behind mass-market trends, for a sophisticated, hyper-adult aesthetic. At The Row, the Olsens’ look often borders on extreme minimalism or avant-garde, and can sometimes be described as ascetic. It was a way to distance themselves from their kitschy child-actor identities–think scrunchies, glitter, and platform flip-flops–and proof that their interest in fashion goes beyond just attaching their name to a product made in a factory. The former actresses had made a billion dollar fortune selling tween fashion at Walmart for years (they’ve since ceased production), so it was important that they create a real departure when they launched The Row in 2006. To that end, their initial collection featured super luxe, perfectly draped tees and leggings. They enlisted the 63 year-old American model and fashion icon Lauren Hutton to be the face of the brand, which was the first step towards achieving cult-status among fashion insiders in the following seasons.
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Looks from Victoria Beckham’s Spring 2015 Collection. Photo: Imaxtree
Beckham had to shed a Spice Girls association, despite the fact that she was always the “classy one,” known for having to decide between “the little Gucci dress or the little Gucci dress.” Since the start, her designs were very “European”-inspired, taking her cues from people like Phoebe Philo at Celine and perennial favorites like Narciso Rodriguez. Her first collection consisted only of 15 fitted but ladylike dresses. Throughout the years, Beckham, too, expanded her line to include accessories and separates, her recent forays into outerwear, especially a long yellow coat with camel sleeves from her fall 2013 collection, had editors weak at the knees. Her label was recently named Brand of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, and she’s now got her own boutique inside London’s Dover Street Market, ground zero for fashion insiders. Perhaps inspired by his wife’s success, David Beckham is rumored to be starting a fashion label of his own. If he follows her example, then no doubt he will find success.
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The fashion industry may be fickle, but it loves a comeback story and a makeover. If the Olsens and Victoria Beckham were able to establish themselves as serious designers, can Kimora Lee Simmons be next? At this level, the most important thing is that the clothes are able to stand on their own, regardless of the name attached on the label. If the clothes in this collection are any indication, she’s on the right path.