LED Light Therapy Is the Key to Bright, Clear Skin
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Fact checked by Anna HarrisReviewed by Julia A. Siegel, MD
When most people think of skincare, they think of topical products: moisturizers, serums, face masks, spot treatments, et al. However, skincare goes beyond just that — devices go the extra mile to deliver next-level results. In particular, LED light therapy devices work overtime to deliver long-lasting results.
You've likely seen them on social media or on television. These devices typically cover the entire face, with slits for the eyes and mouth, and they light up from the inside. Most LED light therapy devices offer red and blue light, but others also offer yellow, green, and infrared offerings. Furthermore, while most of these devices are designed to cover the entire face, others are more targeted. There are LED light therapy devices designed just for the lips, the eye area, and the neck and décolletage. In fact, the whole body can benefit from LED light therapy.
The reason is because there are so many benefits ranging from anti-aging to acne-fighting. So, to best understand what this type of skincare therapy does and how you can best benefit from it, we tapped two board-certified dermatologists and asked them everything there is to know about LED. Their answers, below.
Meet the Experts
Dendy Engelman, MD is a board-certified dermatologic surgeon with a focus on cosmetic enhancement procedures for both the face and body as well as skin cancer treatment.
Sheila Nazarian, MD is a board-certified plastic surgeon located in Beverly Hills. She specializes in non-invasive surgery like CoolSculpting and invasive procedures such as tummy tucks.
What Is LED Light Therapy?
LED means light-emitting diode. "It works by emitting infrared lights (causing heat) in different wavelengths/spectrums, which have different skincare benefits," says Engelman. "Amber light stimulates collagen and elastin. Red light is most commonly used to promote circulation. White light penetrates the deepest and works to tighten and reduce inflammation. Blue light kills bacteria."
She explains that during LED therapy, devices send light waves deep into the skin to trigger natural intracellular reactions. Depending on the light, your skin is going to respond differently. "If [the light is] red, your skin responds by building, strengthening, and maximizing cellular structure. Red light is also believed to target oil glands to reduce cytokines, which cause inflammation and play a role in chronic acne," explains Engelman. "In the case of blue light, specific wavelengths stimulate the production of oxygen radicals that kill acne bacteria, all without damaging the skin."
Benefits of LED Light Therapy
Smooths fine lines and wrinkles
Reduces inflammation
Improves acne scars
Prevents breakouts by killing the acne-causing bacteria
Promotes circulation
Stimulates collagen production
Brightens skin
How to Prepare for LED Light Therapy
For both LED light home masks or LED light in-office machines, the skin must be clean and makeup-free. Experts indicate washing your face with a gentle cleanser that doesn't irritate your skin. You'll also be required to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from the light.
What to Expect During a LED Light Therapy
If you decide to get an LED treatment along with a massage or facial at a spa, you don't have to do much but lie there. "We place LED panels a few inches away from the patient's face," says Nazarian. "Eye protection is also placed as the lights are quite bright. We treat [the skin] for about 15 to 20 minutes. At first, it feels warm, but patients report liking the feeling." The light doesn't cause any burns or skin damage. It's pretty much painless, and if you like lights, the colors can even be relaxing.
Red Light vs. Blue Light LED Therapy
Yup, the color of your LED light therapy does make a difference. "The red lights are used for fine lines and wrinkles. The blue lights are used to improve acne and prevent breakouts. Also, blue light penetrates deep to [treat] cystic acne," explains Nazarian.
Red and blue are the most common hues, but there are a few others, too. Green is purported to help calm and brighten your complexion, yellow can help alleviate redness, white can accelerate healing and reduce acne, and purple can do pretty much everything, including reducing inflammation, acne scarring, and regenerating skin cells. Some treatments will even offer multiple lights, so, during one session, you could experience red, blue, purple, etc.
LED Light Therapy vs. Microneedling
Microneedling is another trendy procedure to rejuvenate the skin and fight against wrinkles and fine lines. Together, the dermaroller needles and heat energy create a wound and, as a result, stimulate the skin, causing collagen regeneration which can help in making the skin more taut, and reducing fine lines. The benefits are the same as LED light therapy but a little more invasive. Most offices include a combination of LED light and microneedling in one visit to get the most out of the treatment while addressing multiple skin concerns. "After microneedling or microdermabrasion, we finish with LED lights," says Nazarian.
The only downside is that microneedling is good for acne scars, but not overactive skin infections such as cold sores or acne. The reason being: needles that come into contact with the already inflamed skin may worsen the irritation and spread the infection.
At-Home vs. In-Office LED Light Therapy
More and more brands are coming out with at-home LED systems so that you can treat these skin problems on your own. "I always say that things done at home are like working out by yourself, and things done in the office are like working out with a trainer. Both are good. But you're not going to get as intense of a treatment at home," says Nazarian. At-home LED devices are easier and always available (you don't need to book any appointments).
"I think they can be beneficial in adding additional incremental benefits to your existing treatment, as at-home devices are usually at a fraction of the strength of in-office treatments. It's great for upkeep after you've completed a full session and for upkeep if you have to space out your sessions," says Engelman. "But I wouldn't recommend at-home LED treatments over in-office ones, as results are nominal, and we know we're treating you in a way that will offer results. With a first-time user, sometimes you're not using the treatment properly, and that's a waste of money."
Potential Side Effects of LED Light Therapy
As a non-invasive procedure, LEDs are usually very safe for all skin colors and types. Side effects are rare, but make note if you experience redness or increased inflammation. It's also smart to talk to your doctor about your current medications and topical products. Some oral acne medications and products like retinoids can cause skin sensitivity.
How Much Does LED Light Therapy Cost?
These treatments are usually add-ons to other treatments, but you can get LED therapy by itself. Engelman says costs are varied depending on where you go but generally cost from $150 to $300. Some good at-home LED masks approved by experts are Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare's DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro ($455), a three-minute device with a combo of 100 red LED lights and 62 blue LED lights; and MZ Skin's Light-Therapy Golden Facial Treatment Device ($740), which has five colored light settings and is hands-free.
LED Light Therapy Aftercare
LED light therapy is noninvasive, so no recovery time is required. And you should be able to continue with your everyday activities once your treatment is over. Minor results are expected immediately after your first session, but in time and once you've finished all the in-office sessions, you'll be able to see a bigger difference.
"We typically recommend light therapy every one to two weeks if an important event is coming up," says Nazarian. "If it's just for maintenance, we add it to our patients' monthly microdermabrasion or micro-needling treatments."
The Final Takeaway
Although most say the results are fantastic, they're not permanent. LED light therapy—especially LED light masks—should not be seen as the only solution for all skin problems, nor a substitute for a doctor's appointment. In other words, think of it more as a complement to give that boost to your skincare routine. At-home devices, when used properly and consistently, can yield good results, but the best outcome will be from in-office treatments done by professionals.
Related: The 6 Best LED Light Therapy Masks of 2024, Tested and Approved by Dermatologists
Read the original article on Byrdie.