Lip Piercings 101: Cost, Placement, Aftercare, and More, According to Experts

Reviewed by Cozmo FarisFact checked by Anna Harris

Deciding to get a new piercing is an exciting moment. Whether you're getting a new type of ear piercing or venturing into the realm of body piercings, adding something new to your collection is fun. There are so many designs to pick from, placement options, and trends, but one that doesn't get enough hype is the lip piercing.

Undeniably badass, lip piercings are a statement of self-expression and undoubtedly give you an edge. It's why we've seen them at a slew of runway shows and why celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Cara Delevingne have been spotted with them. With that said, if you do decide to go for a lip piercing, it's important to go to someone trained in the art and to take care of it properly as it heals.

Since lip piercings are placed so close to the mouth, they inevitably come in contact with a bunch of external aggressors that could lead to infection. Not to mention, there are so many nerves in the lips that you want to make sure your piercer knows what they're doing to minimize pain and potential nerve damage. And even if you have all the safety questions down to a tee, there's still the question of placement and jewelry type.

Considering how much there is to think about when it comes to lip piercings, we tapped two professional piercers and a board-certified dermatologist for all of the ins and outs. Below, they share answers to some of the most popular questions you may have, including healing time and jewelry options. Keep scrolling to learn everything there is to know.

Meet the Experts

• Brian Keith Thompson is a professional celebrity piercer and the owner of Body Electric Tattoo in Los Angeles.

• Howard Sobel, MD, is the founder of Sobel Skin and Attending Dermatologist and Dermatologic Surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York.

• Cozmo Faris is a professional piercer in Atlanta.

Lip Piercing

Placement: Popular placements include under the bottom lip, centered on the indent beneath the nostrils, and the side of the upper lip.

Pricing: $30-$40, not including the cost of the jewelry

Pain Level: 4/10

Healing Time: Two to three months

Aftercare: Practice good oral hygiene by brushing your teeth twice a day, rinsing with alcohol-free mouthwash three to five times daily, not smoking, and avoiding alcohol.

What is a Lip Piercing?

A lip piercing is– as the name implies– a piercing on your upper or lower lip. One of the reasons a lip piercing is always such a popular choice is thanks to the sheer amount of style options available and ways to customize them. No placement is better than the other, but there might be one that better suits your personal style.

According to professional piercer, Brian Keith Thompson, there are several popular placements: First, the labret, which is typically underneath the bottom lip in the center, but can also exit out the middle of the bottom lip (a vertical labret). Next, you have the philtrum (aka Medusa), which is in the center of the indentation underneath your nostrils. You also have side-lip piercings, and when those are on the upper lip, they're often referred to as Monroe or Madonna, depending on the side of the face.

Lip Piercing Placement

As mentioned above, there are several types of lip piercings. You may be best acquainted with a labret piercing, but there are way more to know about. Below, find a breakdown of the different types of placements so you can pick which is best for you.

• Labret: A labret piercing is pierced from the outside of the mouth to the inside just below the bottom. There are variations, including the vertical labret—pierced through the bottom lip and completely on the outside of the mouth—and the side labret, located below the lip, with the piercing located to the right or left of the center. These piercings cost between $30 and $100 and come with a healing time of six to eight weeks.
  

• Ashley: An Ashley piercing goes directly through the center of the bottom lip and exits through the back of the lip. Pricing is between $40 and $80 and healing time is between 12 and 16 weeks.

• Medusa: A Medusa is located right above the cupid's bow in the indented portion of the upper lip. Pricing starts at $40 with healing time usually ranging at least a couple of months.

• Monroe: Named after Marilyn Monroe, this piercing includes a single stud placed directly above the left side of the upper lip. A Monroe costs around $25-$50 per piercing and the healing time is roughly six to eight weeks.

• Madonna: The inverse of the Monroe, the Madonna piercing includes a single stud placed directly above the right side of the upper lip (with cost and healing time being the same).

• Bites: There are a variety of "bite" piercings, including Cyber bites; Angel bites (double piercings that sit symmetrically above the upper lip); Snake bites; Dolphin bites; Shark bites; Spider Bites; canine bites. These piercings cost between $50 and $75 per piercing, with the healing time lasting 12-16 weeks.

• Dahlia: Dahlia piercings are double facial piercings on either side of the mouth. Dahlia piercings come with a long healing process (from six months to a year) and cost anywhere from $20 to $80.
  

• Jestrum: Also known as the vertical Medusa, the Jestrum piercing consists of an entry point in the philtrum (the groove between the base of the nose and the upper lip) and an exit point through the upper lip itself. Pricing starts at $40 with healing time usually ranging at least a couple of months.
  

• Frenulum: This piercing comes through the frenulum of either the upper lip (known as a "smiley") or lower lip (known as a "frowny"). Pricing starts at $30 with healing time usually ranging from one to three months.

Side Effects of Lip Piercing

Any type of piercing comes with its understandable risks but considering how much comes in contact with your mouth, the potential side effects are slightly more heightened. Here's what you should consider and prepare for:

• Infection: Since you're dealing with your mouth, which has a lot of bacteria, there's great potential for infection. And since lip piercings are often on the outside of your skin and inside of your mouth, you'll want to keep both ends of the piercing clean. Brush your teeth after every meal and use an alcohol-free mouthwash.

• Swelling and inflammation: "While some swelling is normal, proper aftercare of the piercing will keep it under control and help it heal," says dermatologist, Howard Sobel, MD. If you smoke cigarettes, try to stop while your new piercing is healing. "Alcohol and smoking will cause more inflammation," says Thompson. "If you can’t abstain for a few weeks after getting it pierced, I’d say wait for a time when you can."

Pain and Healing Time

A lip piercing is going to hurt, but it's tolerable. Like most body piercings, the procedure itself will be quick, and the biggest concern will be the aftercare. Of course, with the sensitive nature of the piercing placement, you'll need to be extra careful not to snag, bite, or otherwise accidentally bump or move your jewelry in your new piercing. This type of friction can not only prolong the healing but also cause unnecessary added discomfort.

Brace yourself, because the healing time for a lip piercing is around two to three months, depending on your body and how you heal. "With your mouth, you’re talking, eating, and drinking all day long, so it can be a tough one," Thompson says. "You’re healing a fistula, and that’s a tunnel of scar tissue being built around the jewelry, so it takes time. The body's going to seal off the exterior first to prevent bacteria, then it’s going to start healing inwards, so it takes a while."

Lip Piercing Aftercare

As with any piercing, there are important steps to keeping the area clean and preventing infection. Says piercer Cozmo Faris, "Use an alcohol-free mouthwash three to five times a day to flush the inside of the piercing. These flushes should happen anytime after the person eats or drinks. For the outside of the piercing, a sterile saline wound wash, such as H2Ocean Body Piercing Foam Soap ($8), should be used twice daily to irrigate the area; a five-second saturation should do the trick followed by letting the area air-dry."

Possibly the most important thing to do to encourage the healing process: Be patient. "As it starts healing outwards, you may think it’s fully healed. But, what you don’t realize is it’s still healing internally, so you stop taking care of it, then it regresses," says Dr. Sobel. In other words, be diligent about taking care of the area for the first three months, and help out your immune system by eating right, staying hydrated, and avoiding stress.

How to Keep Your Lip Piercing Clean

Thompson says to keep the outside of your piercing clean like you would any other body piercing: with soap and water. He recommends Dr. Bronner's 18-in-1 Hemp Unscented Baby-Mild Pure-Castile Soap ($16) or Cetaphil's Gentle Skin Cleanser ($12) for those with sensitive skin. He also suggests using the NeilMed NeilCleanse Piercing Aftercare ($14) to help keep the area clean.

How to Change Out Lip Piercings

There really is no straightforward answer to this question because everyone is different. "After you heal something, some people can leave it out for days and weeks, and some people can only leave it out for a few minutes before it closes," explains Thompson. "It really depends on your body."

If you're worried about how quickly your lip piercing will close up, it's probably because you're looking to swap out your jewelry for something a little more your vibe. That's totally understandable, but the longer you wait for the initial change you want to make, the better. "You want to wait at least six weeks, but I would say eight to 10 weeks is even better," says Thompson. But if you're dying to change yours sooner and you had your original piercing done with a post, there is a tiny glimmer of hope. He adds that as long as the post stays in, you can change the top whenever you want.

What Type of Jewelry is Used for a Lip Piercing?

Any type of piercing comes with a few jewelry options. Below, find the types most popularly used for lip piercings:

• Gauges: For the fastest, most seamless healing process, Thompson recommends piercing with a 16- or 18-gauge and using a titanium or gold metal.

• Studs: "People do anchors in their lip, surface barbells, studs on the top, bottom, center, side—there are a lot [of options]," Thompson says. "Most piercings heal better with a stud."

• Hoops and rings: If you do choose to go with a hoop or a ring, Thompson recommends using a larger size. "The lip is red because it’s very vascular, so it tends to swell. Your body’s not going to reject a lip piercing, but it’s too much tissue the hoop is going through."

What Jewelry Material is Used for Lip Piercings?

There's a huge difference between the materials used for piercing, and some may be more suitable for your skin type than others. As such, ask your piercer and/or dermatologist about which of the below metals is best for you.

• Stainless Steel: "Stainless steel is actually the best metal to use for lip piercings because your body can adapt to it quite easily and it doesn’t usually become infected," says Dr. Sobel.

• 14 14-karat Gold or Platinum: Other safe bets for the area are high-quality precious metals such as 14-karat gold or platinum, according to Dr. Sobel. He notes, "Many people have allergies to certain types of metal. It seems obvious, but definitely take into consideration your allergies and select metals accordingly. Stay away from nickel."
  

Up Next: The Safest Jewelry for a New Piercing

Read the original article on Byrdie.