What the locals know about Venice but won't tell you
Venice is a true delight for shoppers, provided you know where to look. Lee Osborne reveals where the most desirable buys are to be found in each district.
Cannargeio
Cannaregio is Venice’s second largest sestriere (district). Newly opened BallereTTe, on the main thoroughfare linking San Marco and Canareggio, is a homage to women’s shoes in innumerable styles and shades – everything from leopardskin ballet pumps to suede moccasins. Whatever your elevation or persuasion, you’ll find it here. Prices from €75-€150. (Strada Nova, 3927; ballerette.com).
Santa Croce
A fine example of how a vintage store should look, the Bisnonni Clothing Vintage Parlor will take you slightly off the beaten track to one of Venice's quieter districts. Owner Paolo has masterfully curated a selection of goods for both men and women, ranging from classic military field jackets and Levi’s jeans, to Gucci loafers and Burberry trench coats. (Santa Croce 2120; facebook.com/bisnonnivintage).
San Marco
Every visitor to Venice will find themselves in San Marco at some point. To witness first-hand the artistry that goes into crafting bespoke handmade shoes seek out the quaint Atelier Segalin di Daniela Ghezzo. Ghezzo served her apprenticeship under the great “Cobbler of Venice”, the late Rolando Segalin. Expect to pay upwards of €650 (Calle dei Fuseri; danielaghezzo.it).
Arguably the most beautiful department store in the world, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi opened to considerable acclaim in 2017. Its “palazzo meets New York loft” interior features an atrium of cascading balconies that showcase the finest in haute couture. Admire the Grand Canal from its rooftop terrace, or sip a cocktail in Amo’s bar. (Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi; dfs.com).
Castello
Resigned to the phenomenon of high water caused by tidal peaks in the Adriatic, Libreria Acqua Alta has resorted to storing its books in bathtubs, boats and even a full-sized gondola! With its eclectic, ramshackle vibe, it could be straight out of a Harry Potter movie. (5176 Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa; facebook.com/libreriaacquaalta).
Venice has an extraordinary proliferation of cutting-edge optical stores, with a particular penchant for foldable specs. L’Altraottica specialises in premium eyewear, offering a selection of the finest European, American and Japanese brands. It also designs and produces its own frames, in natural materials such as wood and bamboo. (Castello, 6206; laltraottica.com).
For more affordable options, head to J Pajetta, where heavily discounted past-season frames are displayed in iconic Emmental-cheese-like shelves. (Spadaria, 665).
San Polo
For more than 20 years the inimitable Monica Daniele at Tabarro San Marco di Monica Daniele has recovered what she calls the lost styles of Venetian tailoring in her tabarri (traditional Venetian cloaks) fashioned out of merino wool or cashmere (often seen draped over the tuxedos of European diplomats.) She is also known for her chocolate-box assortment of hats. The iconic Tricorno Veneziano (the Venetian tricorn, modelled by her husband Albert Gardin, the current and 121st Doge of Venice, below) is a best seller. (Calle del Scaleter, 2235; monicadaniele.com).
The Rialto Bridge is the most famous sight along the Grand Canal in San Polo. At the foot of the bridge steps, L’Arte di Casanova has floor-to-ceiling windows that showcase exquisite examples of Murano glass from within its gallery-esque interior. Technicoloured glass-blown balloons cascade gracefully across its fa?ade, reeling you in for closer inspection. Inside, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings designed by Massimo De Rossi complete the picture. The small balloons start at €25 (San Polo 77; artedicasanova.it).
If you’re taking the vaporetto to the island of Burano chances are you’ll skirt Gianni Basso Stampatore, an old-school printers and passionate exponent of the Gutenberg press, found on a side street off the Fondamente Nove. Barack Obama, Hugh Grant and Ben Afleck are among those who have stopped by for personalised correspondence cards, from this Smythson of yesteryear. (Cannaregio, 5306).
Dorsoduro
Dorsoduro includes the highest land areas of the city as well as Giudecca island and Isola Sacca Fisola. Conversations will run long in to the night if you ask a Venetian to recommend their favourite gelato but my allegiance is with Grom, who have a handful of ice cream parlours dotted around the city. If you’re as sweet-toothed as I am, don't miss their sublime coupling of chocolate paired with coconut. Take a pew canalside near the fruit and vegetable barge, and people watch as you savour the flavour. (Campo San Barnaba, 2761, 30123 Venice) .