Loewe Reimagines the Modern Aristocrat

What does it mean to live a peaceful life in 2024? Countless media channels vie for our attention every millisecond. There are no shortage of mindfulness hacks brought to us by technology—apps promising to help us find our “inner zen” and our “true selves.” But a life well-lived doesn’t have to be one of total restraint and perfection, rather one that considers more intimate moments within nature. Such was the inspiration for Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for Loewe, staged within a gallery-turned-runway on the outskirts of Paris yesterday. The showspace was an homage to the late American painter Albert York, whose mini studies of moments outdoors were on display as an antidote to the digital world around us.

The runway had a decidedly British feel to it, despite York’s American heritage, and took on the air of an 18th century aristocrat who found their way to modern day. Day coats had metal straws for lapels, draped dresses were cinched with belt buckles and featured chintzy florals. Dinner jackets had coattails hanging to the floor, floppily dragging along. Massive parachute pants dotted with radishes and carrots looked like the curtains in a country house were transformed into a full look. Knee-length babydoll dresses were done in rich wools and caviar beads, striped, patterned, and paired with croc biker boots. Massive utilitarian cargo pants and sun-bleached denim were teamed with expertly cut vests, blazers, and swooping oxford shirts. Military coats were given the Loewe touch in buttery nappa leather, with relaxed shoulders and smooth collars.

It takes a bold figure to lead fashion into the future without relying too heavily on the past, yet not abandoning it completely. Anderson is keenly aware of this balancing act, playing the ultimate game of fashion chess. He’s one of the few designers who is able to see the whole board, Beth Harmon style, and consistently be three moves ahead of everyone else. The reason this collection in particular resonates is because of its specificity and craft, exhibited with the caviar beads bedecking Squeeze bags, biker boots, and a casual sweatsuit that I estimate weighs approximately 20 pounds. The clothes also had the uncanny ability to seamlessly fit into a range of wardrobes, even proposing new ways to wear things you may already own. And if you don’t own a vegetable-print blouse just yet, he’s got you covered with commercial offerings that feel special, like York’s paintings. The pieces provide a glimpse of nature, similar to how a quirky Loewe accessory might offer a peek into the inner workings of one’s creative mind. Casual and thoughtfully considered—no meditation app needed.

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