London Fashion Week Designers Manipulated and Decorated Denim
Designers presenting at London Fashion Week manipulated denim into new and exciting styles for Spring/Summer 2025. The statement pieces were a sharp contrast to the clean washes and double denim looks seen the week prior in New York.
Decadence was a common theme in several collections that showed generous amounts of embellishments, textures and accessories.
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In a collection that combined tulle, chiffon, silk and denim Simone Rocha leaned into her gothic ballerina aesthetic with embellished denim pieces. Baggy selvedge jeans were deeply cuffed, and pockets were trimmed with white crystals. The crystal motif was repeated on a workwear denim jacket (paired with cuffed denim shorts) and a fitted jacket styled with a black tutu.
Baroque influences were seen throughout Marques Almeida’s range of indigo and overdyed denim. The brand’s key jean fit for the season, the slouchy M’A boyfriend jean made with cotton and pre-consumer recycled cotton, were overdyed in beige and lilac. The jeans coordinated with pieces like a cinched jean jacket and frayed peplum denim tank.
Brown denim jeans were styled with a matching structured denim top that mimicked the shape of armor. The top fearued structured shoulders, front buttons, a cinched waist and hip frills.
Marques Almeida’s applied tonal floral embroidery to a range of pale indigo jeans, shorts, tank and shrunken jacket. Another belted jacket and jean were made with floral brocade denim. A trouser jean was finished with top to bottom seam details that created a pin-stripe effect and a long-sleeve mini dresses featured a frayed handkerchief hem
London-based Chopova Lowena combined its signature folklore aesthetic with dark wash denim and details that nod to the American West. Silver nail heads were used to create floral vines up the legs of cargo jeans. Rounded silver studs were used to create flowers along the hem of a skirt styled over jeans. The label also applied large silver floral ornaments to the waistband of cargo shorts.
Other designers chose a gritter vibe for their denim assortments. A master manipulator of denim, Masha Popova showed jeans with hip cutouts, low-rise capri pants and baggy jeans with her signature grunge finishes. Denim was faded, creased, speckled, bleached and overdyed in muddy colors.
Additions like a denim pencil skirt, sleeveless blazer dress, bow-adorned blouse and one-shoulder starburst dress were cleaner but still had the Ukrainian designer’s underground look and feel.
Natasha Zinko explored the subversive side of denim as well with micro skirts and ultra-low-rise jeans. A Trucker jacket was twisted into a funnel neck top. Denim was crinkled and hems were left raw.
KNWLS gave Y2K-inspired low-rise jeans a sleeker looks by eliminating buttons and traditional waistbands. The jeans featured a zipper and featured cinchers on waist cinchers. The tinted indigo fabrics and use of seam details gave the jeans a moto vibe.
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