Marni RTW Spring 2023
With the overturning of Roe v. Wade at the end of June, the autonomy of the human body is one of the most urgent discussions there is right now. And the body, or rather the liberation of it, came to mind while watching several of the New York runway shows on Saturday (Elena Velez, Eckhaus Latta and more), as designers freed the nipple, and put breasts, stomachs, hips and butt cheeks of all shapes and sizes front and center, sometimes giving them more focus and importance than the clothes.
It was back in 2021 when culture-watchers started to write about “naked summer,” and the trend has only grown, with all genders stepping out in next to nothing, even as bodily autonomy is under political attack like never before.
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On Delancey Street between shows on Saturday night, a young person was spotted strutting in square-toed boots and underwear briefs with a velvet scarf draped over the hips and pinned at one side, carrying a vase of flowers, clearly on the way to a gathering with no qualms.
The younger generation’s liberated view of their bodies was on full display later that night, too, at the Marni show under the Joralemon Tunnel in Brooklyn, which had a high-wattage front row, including Madonna, Kendall Jenner, Doja Cat, James Harden and more.
Marni designer Francesco Risso is one of several Europeans making a splash at New York Fashion Week this season, and this was the first of what he said will be a series of traveling shows. “The most important thing is the connection between the maison and people engaged with Marni fully as our lovers,” mused the designer of wanting to commune with his fans.
The runway show was a communion all right, set to music by Dev Hynes and The String Orchestra of Brooklyn, assembled in two choirs on either side of the tunnel.
The collection was inspired by sunsets (and a bit of Sun Ra, it would seem), with molten-looking circles cut out of cropped knit tanks, fiery-hued color block jersey bikini tops and mini skirts; clinging draped and looped dresses that looked ready for Burning Man, and ROYGBIV-bright suiting and maxi coats, some with flared pants.
Risso’s love of handcraft came out in gorgeous dappled-color velvet suits, spidery knits, mirror embroidered midriff tops and sarongs, and rainbow arched tie-dyed flared pants veering toward the psychedelic. Meanwhile, Skims-like ribbed bra tops, bike shorts and briefs worn by all size bodies, and white wide-legged denim jeans were moments of calm.
It was reliably, wonderfully weird — with or without micro-dosing.
Launch Gallery: Marni RTW Spring 2023
