Marques’ Almeida RTW Spring 2019

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida’s spring show was as rambling and ambiguous as their show notes, which included declarations such as, “Be the brand that can lead real change by focusing around its people”; “Marques’Almeida heavily relies on their instinct, even more in times of change.” Plus a random testimonial from someone named Esmeralda.

Whatever point they were trying to make failed to come across in the collection, which felt like a little of this, a little of that, some old, some new, some blobby shapes and motorcycle helmets done in what looked like mohawked chipmunk fur. A cute yellow dress with puffy sleeves and one of the helmets opened the show. The dress shape repeated in red and plaid.

Then there were some droopy, stretched-out ribbed knit sweaters and pants that looked they’d lost their shape in the wash. Denim was better, though it felt like repeats of greatest hits. And the red satin and black fringed moment had little to do with the goth sweatshirt and maudlin black maxi skirt interlude. Writing off a series of disjointed thoughts as a “celebration of individuality” might feel OK from a social/cultural perspective, but it won’t help a soup-y collection resonate.

Launch Gallery: Marques' Almeida RTW Spring 2019

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