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WWD

Martin Grant RTW Spring 2019

Joelle Diderich
Updated

Martin Grant, known for dressing women like Cate Blanchett and Lee Radziwill in his elegantly minimal designs, has an unlikely style icon: Debbie Harry.

While his spring lineup was built on the refined wardrobe staples that have become his trademark — a perfect white trouser suit, say, or a striped cotton sundress — there was a nostalgic strain of Eighties glamour bubbling up in the shape of frothy party dresses with shoulder-baring tops and poufy skirts.

Pointing to a dress in black silk organza with sheer stripes, Grant said it was similar to one of the first designs he produced in the Eighties. “I was obsessed with Debbie Harry, and she was always wearing this one-shouldered thing, and I was always trying to emulate that when I was starting,” he recalled.

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No doubt, he has kept refining the look. That black dress was cut with millimetric precision, as was a coral confection pairing a multilayered organza skirt with a crossover bra top. Daytime variations on the asymmetric neckline dress included one in crisp shirting fabric, and another in gauzy white organza with a fine cotton stripe.

Grant injected a dash of shine into his daywear, courtesy of a chic khaki oilcloth that was used for items including a trenchcoat, a windbreaker and a swishy circle skirt. Purists will still find what they’re looking for: his flawless white tuxedo shirt and wide-legged black pants merely delivered a different kind of rapture.

Launch Gallery: Martin Grant RTW Spring 2019

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