Material World: Leather from Leaves, Circ Partners with Pyratex
Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Biophilica
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London-based material innovation startup Biophilica has launched its debut product, Treekind: a home compostable leather alternative made from leaves.
Developed in the startup’s London laboratory, Treekind mixes lignocellulose from urban and agricultural sources to make a flexible, leather-like material that’s recyclable and free of polyurethane and PVC. Thanks to its formulation of lignocellulose from leaves and a natural binder, Treekind is designed to break down in soil or water within one year with the help of microbes.
“Leather is one of the world’s most environmentally destructive textiles and a 400-billion-pound market. The world needs an alternative that’s plastic-free and can be disposed of responsibly, without compromising on quality or performance,” Mira Nameth, CEO and co-founder of Biophilica, said. “In an industry where circular practices and mass textile recycling capabilities are still so far away, compostable material solutions with a minimal carbon footprint like Treekind are a more immediate, scalable answer.”
Treekind was brought to market in 2023 following Biophilicia’s seed round investment of 1.2 million pounds, funded by investors including Rhapsody Venture Partners and Fashion for Good. The LVMH La Maison de Startups alum is currently conducting large-scale trials in the UK and Europe to meet growing demand. Biophilica is also in pre-commercial trials for a 100 percent biobased adhesive for bonding Treekind, as well as paper, cardboard wood and conventional leather.
Dahsheng Chemical
Performance foam manufacturer Dahsheng Chemical (DSC) launched its latest eco-innovation at the NE and NW Materials Show.
Dubbed Durapontex N33 Bio, the sustainable insole creates a lower carbon footprint by utilizing 44 percent biobased materials while still maintaining superior performance attributes.
“The DSC innovation team has revolutionized industry eco standards, taking the Durapontex N-Series and supercritical foaming technology further than ever before, with the creation of N33 Bio,” said Mei-Fen Wei, chief operation officer of Dahsheng Chemical. “It sets a new benchmark for lower carbon footprint materials, utilizing an impressive 44 percent biobased content. This innovation not only aligns with the increasing demand for eco-friendly options but also ensures top-notch performance, showcasing our dedication to both sustainability and excellence in product functionality.”
N33 Bio showcases an approach that “confirms” the effectiveness of eco-friendly materials with “outstanding” physical properties—this enables the N-Series to adapt to a wide range of stresses without compromising its structural integrity. N33 Bio has a low-density performance of 0.07+/- 0.01 and a consistent maximum resiliency of 70 percent.
With the Durapontex N-Series, DSC claims it was the first brand to utilize supercritical foaming technology (SFC) to develop an insole at scale. SFC needs steadily high temperatures and pressure control for infusing nitrogen gas emissions, resulting in a soft foam cell made with consistent room between the bubble-like cells, creating a lightweight insole with resiliency and rebound.
Circ x Pyratex
Madrid-based material innovator Pyratex has partnered with recycling startup Circ to blend “cutting-edge innovation with advanced material production knowledge,” according to a post on Circ president Peter Majeranowski’s LinkedIn.
“Our partnership signifies a powerful fusion of Circ’s pioneering material solutions and Pyratex’s expertise in spinning, knitting, dyeing and finishing innovative fibers,” he wrote. “By combining forces, we leverage our deeply shared dedication to using business as a force for good – elevating material standards while minimizing our ecological impact.”
Thanks to Circ’s hydrothermal processing—a process that uses water, pressure and chemistry—Circ can separate polycotton blended textile waste and recover both cellulose and PET fibers, which can then be turned into either lyocell or polyester fabrics. Pyratex aims to replace polluting textile materials with more responsible choices. Its certified supply chain ensures traceability and has recently doubled operations in Mexico to produce closer to its American consumers.
“Transforming fashion to [circularity] will take strategic partnerships across the supply chain,” Luke Henning, chief business officer at Circ, said in a statement. “Our work with Pyratex is significant because their production expertise is enabling our regenerated fibers to be transformed into high-quality, luxurious fabrics that will reach a wide array of brands and designers.”
This collaboration, Pyratex said, “opens up a realm of possibilities” for the fashion industry as it meets the growing demand for textile-to-textile recycling solutions.
“Polyester doesn’t biodegrade in landfills so by repurposing waste, we are not just avoiding the usage of virgin materials, but also preventing the release of toxic chemicals into the soil and groundwater, and eventually into the atmosphere,” Regina Polanco, founder and CEO of Pyratex, said. “At Pyratex, we have lots of experience working with recycled materials and waste, which is why Circ’s mission resonates so strongly with ours.”
PlantSwitch
Advanced materials company PlantSwitch announced the closing of its $8 million bridge financing round, with participation from alternative investment platform, NexPoint Capital.
“PlantSwitch’s technology has the potential to transform the fashion industry with a more sustainable alternative to plastic,” Dillon Baxter, PlantSwitch founder and CEO, told Sourcing Journal. “Applications for our technology include everything from the packaging, hangers, and shelves from which the clothing is sold, to the materials used to make the clothing itself.”
The North Carolina-based startup developed a proprietary bioplastic technology that converts cellulosic agricultural waste streams into a low-cost, compostable plastic resin alternative that can be used to make nearly every type of plastic product. Considering single-use plastic bans happening globally, PlantSwitch serves as a waste-free drop-in replacement for plastic.
“Alternatives to plastic have traditionally failed to deliver on cost, quality and availability,” Baxter said. “PlantSwitch was founded with the mission to deliver a bioplastic alternative that can replace all traditional single-use plastics. To do that, the technology must be low-cost, high-performance and rapidly scalable; and those three tenets have guided every decision our development team has made since inception.”
Proceeds raised will be used to launch the company’s first commercial manufacturing facility in North Carolina as well as grow its team. The 52,000-square-foot facility is expected to produce over 50 million pounds of bioplastic resin each year.
“Major corporations have made commitments to lower their plastic consumption and the toxic waste it produces, but the proper infrastructure to deliver a viable alternative hasn’t existed,” Baxter said. “This $8 million raise, in partnership with NexPoint, is being invested in building out this infrastructure, which will drive the alternative plastics market forward. We believe the infrastructure for compostable bioplastics is critical to the future of our economy, our health and our planet. That’s why we’re on a mission to build it in a way that’s scalable and cost effective.”
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