Material World: The Role of Algae, Bamboo and Mycelium in Sustainable Couture
Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Pyratex
Phillip Lim’s algae sequin dress is now on display in the Costume Institute’s “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion” exhibition.
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Spanish textile company Pyratex collaborated with the creative director as well as interdisciplinary designer and scientist Charlotte McCurdy and Slow Factory for its One X One program. Together, the group created this dress using biodegradable materials like bamboo and seaweed.
McCurdy has been researching bio-plastic from algae as part of her involvement with the New Museum’s cultural incubator, New Inc., according to Slow Factory, and uses macroalgae from the ocean to create biodegradable sequins.
“I come from thinking about formal sustainability strategy, but then I realized that the real gap and the real challenge we had was in creating visions of workable, livable futures, so that we could have collective vision we could pull toward as a society,” McCurdy said to One X One. “That’s really creative work.”
Pyratex was approached to develop a textile base for embroidery that would “reach the same level of innovation” as the sequins, the company said. The material innovation firm said it “immediately envisioned” a mesh-like structure made from bamboo and SeaCell, a seaweed-based fiber, as these natural and biodegradable fibers replace the synthetic materials traditionally used for meshes.
“For the Met to showcase our innovative material and this amazing project is a real honor. It’s important to show that there are alternatives to polluting materials,” said Regina Polanco, CEO of Pyratex. “What we aim for at Pyratex is for a wider public to adopt these solutions so next-gen textiles would be available not just in a museum, but also in your favorite stores!”
Spinnova
Hyères-awarded designer Sofia Ilmonen has launched her third joint collection with sustainable textile material company Spinnova.
Featured at Fashion in Helsinki, the collection draws inspiration from the corset and showcases modular outfits from fabrics made with Spinnova fibers (20 percent) and cotton (80 percent) with lighter cotton poplin and silk organza to create “voluminous” and “layered” silhouettes. It introduces elements of the corset structure such as bones and lacing, which enhance functionality as well as aesthetic appeal.
“For centuries, the corset was worn due to its positive associations with status and beauty while also serving as a symbol of oppression. I wanted to design a collection that acknowledges the corset’s historical significance while simultaneously challenging its restrictions with my design philosophy,” Ilmonen said. “I appreciate working with Spinnova fiber as it creates zero side streams, which is in line with my zero-waste pattern cutting approach.”
The event’s theme highlights technological breakthroughs in fashion; this new technique allowed Ilmonen to design the first pair of trousers seen in her collections. The Finnish designer is known for her modular outfits that can be “taken apart” and rebuilt into different silhouettes, as her designs follow a one-size-fits-all principle.
“As Sofia is bringing the zero-waste approach to fashion via design, Spinnova is bringing it via sustainable materials,” said Spinnova CEO Tuomas Oijala. “Spinnova fiber creates zero side streams, and it’s CO2 emissions and water use are minimal. Just like the event’s theme suggests, we believe Spinnova’s technology is one of the technological breakthroughs needed in the industry, and we’re happy to celebrate it with talented designers who share the same values.”
Biophilica
Mira Nameth, founder and CEO of London-based biomaterials innovation startup Biophilica, has been named the first-place European awardee in the 2024 Cartier Women’s Initiative (CWI).
With the initiative’s theme, “Forces for Good,” Nameth was recognized for her efforts in developing Treekind, a plastic-free leather alternative made from leaves. As the first-place awardee, Nameth will receive roughly $108,500 in grant funding toward the ongoing scaling of Biophilica, as well as social capital support and human capital support via a one-year fellowship program that offers business and leadership training, workshops and resources.
“To be recognized amongst such an esteemed group of fellows is a huge honor. As a business, we believe that to drive true, meaningful change in creating a more sustainable fashion future, we need to collaborate. Thanks to the CWI, I’ve been able to connect with incredible networks of like-minded innovators and changemakers who have shared their own insights and learnings as well as inspire new solutions and collaborations,” Nameth said. “The CWI has, in a very short amount of time, already offered an immense amount of valuable support and I’m delighted to use Cartier’s funding to continue to accelerate the growth and impact of Biophilica’s innovations.”
The funding will go toward Biophilica’s ongoing growth efforts, including plans to increase the volume of Treekind pilots with fashion brands, scale Brightbond—the startup’s plant-based adhesive—and bring a new external production site online to accommodate larger order fulfillment.
CWI is an annual international entrepreneurship program that aims to “shine a light” on women impact entrepreneurs and provide them with the necessary financial, social and human capital support to grow their businesses.
Ecovative
Mycelium maker Ecovative has named British fashion designer Patrick McDowell as its inaugural global design ambassador for its Foragermaterial.
“I am so excited to announce my new role as global design ambassador for Ecovative, a company that I believe in and think is integral to moving the needle on material innovation,” McDowell said. “Reimagining the fashion system has been integral to Patrick McDowell since its inception, and working with material innovationis incredibly exciting and needed to drive long-term positive change in the fashion industry in a way that is kinder to the planet.”
At London Craft Week 2024, the designer debuted the Benoit Blazer, crafted from Ecovative’s latest Forager hides, at the Mills Fabrica. The blazer is on display at “the Planet-Saving Innovations” exhibit now through Sept. 30. The exhibition focuses on six planetary priorities, including water, chemicals, waste, microplastics, land use and climate change. McDowell’s presentation of a mycelium-crafted “leather” jacket highlights the potential of these materials to address the industry’s most persistent challenges.
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