Medical-Grade Skincare vs. Mainstream Skincare: What's the Difference?

Medically reviewed by Lucy Chen, MDFact checked by Anna Harris

We all know that a solid skincare routine is important, but there are a lot of different products out there including over-the-counter formulas (both drugstore and prestige) and the more potent variety, dubbed medical-grade. So, how do you choose? As of late, "medical grade skincare" has grown in popularity, but many are still mystified about what sets it apart and whether it's really worth its steeper price tag.

To learn all about this realm of skincare (and find out which professional lines are worth their hefty price tag), we tapped two board-certified dermatologists.

Meet the Expert

• Rachel Nazarian, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in cosmetic treatments, skin cancer, and dermatologic surgery. Find her at Schweiger Dermatology in Group in NYC.

• Purvisha Patel, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Advanced Dermatology & Skin Cancer Associates in Memphis. She also has her own skincare line called Visha Skincare.

Read on for the ultimate guide to medical-grade skincare, according to the experts.

What Is Medical-Grade Skincare?

"Also known as cosmeceutical skincare, medical-grade skincare is targeted to specific medical conditions and needs, such as acne or wrinkles," explains Dr. Patel. "The concentration of active ingredients is generally greater than what you can find over the counter, and they have been tested to be effective on the skin, hence there are greater results with such skincare." This type of skincare is meant to offer both medicinal and cosmetic benefits.

Is Medical-Grade Skincare Backed by Science?

In short, yes. For a long time, these highly concentrated medical-grade formulas were only available in doctors' offices or at medspas. And that's why dermatologists and other professionals often prefer professional-strength skincare. Their medical training allows them to ensure that each product is high-quality, capable of guaranteeing results, and is safe for use before offering them to their patient, Dr. Nazarian explains. "Whenever we suggest a product for patients, there's an understanding that that product will reflect on us, and it needs to meet our high expectations."

Medical-Grade vs. Over-the-Counter Skincare

There are a few key differences when it comes to medical-grade skincare versus over-the-counter. For one, accessibility. It used to be that you could only get medical-grade skincare in doctors' offices, but now–with the help of the Internet– accessibility has increased. Also, Dr. Nazarian notes that most medical-grade companies will use highly stabilized ingredients that last longer and take longer to degrade. "Many of them also use more involved mechanisms of absorption to enhance delivery to deeper areas of skin," she says. In short, deeper penetration of these active ingredients can potentially lead to better results. "This is not true for all the medical-grade companies, but certainly for many of them."

Some mainstream brands may tout their retinol serum or night cream as an incredible skin-transforming product, but sometimes there are only trace amounts of actives surrounded by synthetic additives, which is a false claim that medical-grade brands don't stand behind.

Because of the high quality and concentration of all those actives, most medical-grade products tend to be more pricey than what you'll find in the drugstore.

And as Dr. Patel notes, unlike medical-grade skincare products, over-the-counter products are "regulated to not make any medical claims, and they cannot state that they 'treat' a skin condition," she says.

Does Professional-Strength Skincare Work Better?

Dr. Nazarian says she supports medical-grade skincare over non-medical skincare because of the strong clinical evidence. "I do think that you can find quality ingredients at skincare stores such as Sephora, but they are rare, and you need to know what to look for," she explains. "Ultimately, I recommend that even if you want to buy something at Sephora you ask your dermatologist's opinion beforehand to manage expectations on what the product can do."

Dr. Patel agrees, adding that medical-grade skincare is generally more effective, as the ingredients are in greater concentration and have been tested to work—this means that you should be more likely to get results in a shorter amount of time.

Byrdie Tip

If you have sensitive skin or a compromised skin barrier (think: a chronic skin condition), Dr. Patel says that certain ingredients in medical-grade products can cause irritation, redness, and inflammation, so be sure to consult with your dermatologist if this sounds like your skin type.

The Best Medical-Grade Skincare Brands

Ready to make the swap for medical-grade products? Take a look at some of our favorites below.

PCA Skin

Especially appropriate for colder months, PCA Skin's HydraLuxe is a rich moisturizing cream that promises to soften skin and reverse signs of aging with snow algae, a tough organism that can survive harsh conditions, according to the brand.

iS Clinical

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley calls iS Clinical's Active Serum serum "brilliant," and her facialist Shani Darden says it's great for acne-prone skin, reduces fine lines, and lightens hyperpigmentation.

Skinceuticals

We're calling Skinceuticals' Hyaluronic Acid Intensifier an HA serum version 2.0—perhaps even 3.0. Licorice root and purple rice are meant to boost skin's hyaluronic acid levels even further for plumper, more supple skin than a regular HA serum can deliver, according to the brand.

Skinmedica

While many moisturizing products leave the surface of your skin feeling dewy, hyaluronic acid delivers far beneath the surface increasing the water level of the skin. That's why we like Skinmedica's HA5. Editor-in-Chief Hallie Gould says, "After applying the lightweight, velvety elixir, my face felt softer than ever before, and my foundation went on so smoothly."

The Takeaway

While we're not against a fun jaunt in the skincare aisles of our favorite beauty stores, medical-grade skincare products may be more beneficial if you're looking for higher levels of active ingredients in your products. That being said, always consult with a board-certified dermatologist before venturing down the road of medical-grade skincare, as their potency may cause more harm than good, particularly if you're using the wrong formulas for your skin type.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does medical-grade skincare require a prescription from a doctor?

Medical-grade skincare products do not require a prescription from a doctor. There are some medical-grade skincare lines, such as Obagi, that sell both medical-grade skincare and prescription products. Their Tretinoin does require you to be under the care of a doctor. You can buy their medical-grade Obagi Retinol, however, without a script as it has less potent (but still effective) ingredients.

Where can you buy medical-grade skincare?

The traditional way to buy medical-grade skincare is at your doctor or dermatologist’s office. Because of the more potent ingredients, it is best to talk to your dermatologist or doctor to find out which medical-grade product is best for your specific issue. You can also purchase online, however, make sure you are only buying from reputable sites, such as Dermstore or the brand’s official website.

How do you know if a skincare line is medical-grade?

It can be difficult figuring out if a skincare line is actually medical-grade, especially when shopping online. A medical-grade skincare line must have clinical research that backs up their claims of the reported benefits. The best way to ensure a line is medical-grade is to talk to your doctor or dermatologist and to see which products they recommend. From there, you can buy online from a reputable site.

Up Next: Ask a Dermatologist: Should I Be Using Toner or Astringent?

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