Can Moisturizers With SPF Really Replace Sunscreen? Experts Weigh In
Stocksy
Fact checked by Anna HarrisReviewed by Rachel Nazarian, MD, FAAD
By now, we've all made major strides toward committing to daily sunscreen application. But, we'll be the first to admit that not all of our attempts are as whole-hearted as others. Any SPF is better than none, right? (Spoiler alert: Perhaps not.) The oh-so-convenient moisturizers that are already formulated with SPF are difficult to resist, but we can't help but wonder how effective they actually are. As a rule, sunscreen is meant to sit on the skin to act as a defense between your face and the sun. It's generally not meant to penetrate the skin, because it's supposed to block out all those harmful UV rays. Moisturizers, on the other hand, are the opposite; their very purpose is to penetrate the skin, adding moisture that wasn't already there. So can they actually coexist?
We've never been able to fully understand how or if moisturizers with SPF work, so we let the pros step in. Read on for all the expert intel on SPF in moisturizers and how these products stack up to good old sunscreen.
Meet the Expert
Nava Greenfield, MD, is a medical dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in NYC. Her work has led to contributions to publications such as The Journal of Dermatological Treatment.
Ginger King is a cosmetic scientist and the founder and CEO of Grace Kingdom Beauty, a cosmetic product development company.
Ulli Haslacher is the founder and CEO of German-inspired Pour Moi Skincare. Her brand focuses on the skin's reaction to varying climates and caters to the one you currently live in, allowing for optimum skin health.
Is It Safe to Combine SPF and Moisturizer?
"Sunscreen is not an ingredient," asserts Ulli Haslacher, the founder of skincare brand, Pour Moi. "It should be treated as a very important layer in your skincare routine and should always be applied last (but before makeup). The purpose of sunscreen is to form a protective film on top of the skin to shield it—SPF is not there to restore moisture balance or deliver ingredients deeper into the skin."
"Sunscreen is regulated by the FDA as a drug," she continues, "and those regulations require a specific amount of SPF in order for it to be effective, leaving little room for other active ingredients in a formula. Most importantly, when exposed to air and light, sunscreen becomes ineffective after a short period of time (about 90 minutes max). You need to reapply it if your skin is exposed to the sun."
Similarly, dermatologist, Nava Greenfield, MD, doesn't recommend combining the two products; however, she has a different view on it. "Although moisturizers penetrate the skin, they only get past the very top layer, which pretty much still stays on top of the skin, just like a sunscreen would." She continues, "Because although it may say SPF 15 or 30 on the label, the amount you put on your face will not be enough to get that much coverage, and it will be diluted out by the moisturizer. So, you will only have an SPF of 10 to 12 in effect on your skin. The best way to apply is to put on moisturizer first, then apply an SPF 30 or more each morning at least 15 minutes prior to sun exposure."
Cosmetic chemist, Ginger King, agrees, noting while you can combine SPF with a moisturizer, " you are possibly minimize the SPF power by half. The best way is to use moisturizer first and then use the SPF over it generously instead of combining them and applying. The reason is you need a uniform full coverage for SPF to work. It is like when you paint, you do a primer first then apply a coat over, you don't combine them as the results will not be as good."
Are SPF Moisturizers as Effective as Sunscreen?
While experts recommend using both a good facial moisturizer and a separate sunscreen, the reasoning comes from more than just the products' ability to penetrate your skin. Instead, it's about the sunscreen's ability to fully live up to its SPF number, as mixing it with other ingredients may dilute the formula. That, and the fact that you're technically supposed to continually apply sunscreen throughout the day (which you may not want to do with your moisturizer, based on your skin type or the product's price).
Still, while it's not exactly derm-recommended, applying a moisturizer with SPF is better than applying no SPF at all. And, according to King, reaching for a sunscreen-containing moisturizer is much safer than attempting to mix a preferred sunscreen with a favorite moisturizer on your own. There may be certain hero ingredients in moisturizers that really should not be mixed with sunscreen. "While it is recommended that you use a vitamin C serum with SPF to boost antioxidant effect, you should avoid mixing with retinol, alpha hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide, and salicylic acid which can break down the sunscreen efficacy," says King.
SPF Moisturizer vs. Tinted Sunscreen
Now that we've gotten that squared away, you may be wondering about the efficacy of tinted sunscreen. It seems to be marketed similarly: A two-for-one product that eliminates the need to layer sunscreen and, in this case, a light foundation. So, should tinted sunscreens be considered with a similar level of skepticism as SPF in moisturizers? King assures us that this isn't the case. "Tinted sunscreens are sunscreens with pigments to minimize the ghostly white cast," she explains. "They are similar to regular sunscreens."
Derm-Approved Moisturizers
Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2
Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 ($150)
This moisturizer houses the essential lipids (as well as vitamin E and essential oils), and it promises to remedy uneven skin texture, fine lines, and free radical damage, while delivering improved smoothness, elasticity, moisture levels, and a supple glow.
Dr. Barbara Sturm Face Cream Rich
Dr. Barbara Sturm Face Cream Rich ($240)
This intensely moisturizing blend incorporates purslane meant to reduce redness as well as skullcap extract meant to stimulate the skin's natural collagen production.
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel-Cream
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel-Cream ($18)
Dermatologists always recommend this Neutrogena pick. It's infused with hyaluronic acid and boasts incredible results (for an especially wallet-friendly price).
Sunday Riley C.E.O. C + E Antioxidant Protect + Repair Moisturizer
Sunday Riley C.E.O. C + E Antioxidant Protect + Repair Moisturizer ($65)
For advanced, oxygen-stable vitamin C, C.E.O is your new best friend. It technically includes THD ascorbate, a clinically-proven, oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C that penetrates better into the skin. As such, this moisturizer may be your best bet to fight the first visible signs of aging, boost youthful-looking skin texture and volume, and provide hydration.
Derm-Approved Sunscreens
CLE Cosmetics CCC+ Cream
CLE Cosmetics CCC+ Cream ($38)
Yes, it's a BB/CC-style cream and it can be used as a moisturizer and SPF in a pinch thanks to its sun protection factor of 50. But if you moisturize before putting this dream of a product on, you're guaranteed dewy skin for the rest of the day.
Solara Suncare Time Traveler Ageless Daily Face Sunscreen
Solara Suncare Time Traveler Ageless Daily Face Sunscreen ($42)
This product provides exactly what you want out of a mineral sunscreen: It's water resistant, protects your skin with an SPF of 30, and offers a glowy, non-greasy finish. Plus, all their packaging is recyclable.
Algenist Sublime Defense Ultra Lightweight UV Defense Fluid SPF 50
Algenist Sublime Defense Ultra Lightweight UV Defense Fluid SPF 50 ($28)
This is the perfect sunscreen for people who swear they don't like sunscreen. It's made to be worn under makeup, so it goes on super thin (shake it first), but it boasts a high enough SPF (50) to keep you from burning. It's also formulated in a way that won't cause acne or irritate the skin, so if that's been keeping you from your SPF, it shouldn't now.
The Final Takeaway
So there you have it. Sunscreen is its own layer of skin protection and shouldn't be added to a moisturizer. Combining the two products can dilute the formulas, and by keeping them separate, you'll reap the full benefits of both the SPF and moisturizer. Nor should you rely on your moisturizer that's formulated with SPF in it– that's fine in a pinch, but it won't offer the adequate protection that's needed. Just remember to always apply protection. "As long as there is light, there can be damage," says King. "UVB is for burning that you can feel the heat, but there is also UVA which can cause aging, so sunscreen is not just for summer."
Up Next: The 19 Best Tinted Sunscreens for Every Skin Tone and Type
Read the original article on Byrdie.