What’s Next In Denim, According to LA Designers and Execs
As the birthplace of premium denim, creativity meets responsibility is a common goal for many Los Angeles-based denim brands. They’re redefining what it means to be premium by focused on longevity, sustainable fibers and intentional production practices. They’re also leaning on local design and washhouse talent to elevate denim fashion and push it beyond the basic 5-pocket jean.
These efforts are reflected in brands’ Spring/Summer 2025 collections. Here, designers and executives from leading denim brands share their vision for the upcoming season and what they believe makes denim a uniquely L.A. product.
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Adam Taubenfligel, co-founder and creative director, Triarchy
On S/S ’25: This is a collection that focuses on the fine lines of denim excellence. We bring silhouettes to life in familiar ways but with unexpected detailing—jeans and jackets with western-inspired seam lines and darts; bow-legged jeans in rich, dark washes and tailored jackets with hot pants are just a few of the highlights of this irreverent collection.
On sustainability: We don’t make anything at Triarchy unless it falls within our very strict responsibility lens. We are the only brand to offer plastic-free stretch denim across our entire core collection, and we only work with sustainable washing machinery and organic or regenerative cotton. Our actions and practices are vetted and published by a third-party auditor to ensure we aren’t contributing to greenwashing and making sure we can consistently deliver denim with a clear conscience.
On inspiration: I would say that travel remains my biggest source of inspiration when creating new collections for Triarchy. I am always drawn to timeless design, as I would never want to make anything that you wouldn’t want to wear in 5- or 10-years’ time. I find that walking the streets of Paris or London allows for a window into timeless fashion.
On premium denim: Premium denim is denim that is not made like fast fashion, and that hopefully is made with responsibility in mind. I don’t think a brand should be able to call itself premium if its manufacturing practices are irresponsible, regardless of price point or market standing.
On L.A.: I think denim and L.A. are synonymous, and they always will be. Los Angeles will forever influence our washes and aesthetics. When I see a light blue pair of jeans, it makes me think of sunshine and who in the world doesn’t love sunshine? For this reason alone, the influence L.A. has on Triarchy translates globally.
Jen Kim, women’s senior design director, AG Jeans
On S/S ’25: We are excited and confident about the success of two new fits that we introduced for Fall/Winter ’24—Brinley, a mid-rise straight leg, and Hattie, a high-rise barrel—that we wanted to continue the momentum for S/S ’25 and build those fit blocks in cropped versions. Additionally, we are launching two new short fits: the Halle, a high-rise relaxed short, and a new high-rise Bermuda [short] called the Hattie short that takes inspiration from our barrel jean.
On sustainability: AG has worked hard over the years to implement sustainable practices in our design and manufacturing by using laser technology, recycled water [and more]. This practice continues each season, and we strive to do better season after season.
On inspiration: For spring, we were inspired by the vast shoreline of the West Coast and vintage naval uniforms. We found inspiration in vintage deck pants and jackets, as well as the Fleet Week episode from “Sex and the City.” You’ll find mariner-inspired details sprinkled throughout the collection. For summer, we continue down the coast to Baja to seek refuge. We found inspiration in the sunbaked surfaces and vibrant colors of the region.
Getting out of the office and traveling is one of the best ways to get inspired. It’s great to get out of your comfort zone and be somewhere else, breathe new air and see new things. People watching and seeing how people put looks together is so inspiring.
On premium denim: Premium denim is about craftsmanship, innovative washes and fit. It all begins with a cloth, and AG partners with the best denim mills in the world. Many of our fabrics are sourced from the finest Italian and Japanese mills. Couple that with our founders’ extensive manufacturing knowledge and our passion for fit, and you have a superior standard of denim that distinguishes itself from commercial denim.
On L.A.: L.A.’s laid-back lifestyle mixed with a vibrant arts and entertainment scene leads to designs that are effortless and relaxed. This way of dressing lends itself to denim and is sought after across the globe. I have designed for many brands that have tried to capture the relaxed spirit of California.
Marianne McDonald, creative director, Citizens of Humanity
On S/S ’25: For spring, we’ve been experimenting with ready-to-wear styles like trousers, vests and shirting in fluid denim fabrications that feel effortless and sophisticated. Also, we continue to be inspired by vintage styles, and you’ll see new silhouettes that feel both boyish and sexy at the same time. We have been gravitating towards lived-in washes in beautiful indigos and destructed denim in easy, relaxed silhouettes and stone-washed denim in neutral colors.
On sustainability: We are continuously implementing sustainable technologies and processes into our apparel making. We are thrilled to have seen incredible success thus far with our regenerative cotton program, which began to roll out within our collections earlier this past spring. Currently, we are on track to procure a total of 4 million pounds of regenerative cotton. We look forward to the continued growth and success of this program year after year and bringing others (such as additional farmers, mills, brands, and retailers) along the journey with us to regeneration.
On inspiration: At Citizens, we’ve always been excited by the narrative power of fashion and this season, ready-to-wear from the late 90s and reworked vintage are some of the elements that we’ve been drawn to. This takes shape in the form of fluid silhouettes, patch and repair, as well as relaxed utility styles that push the boundaries of everyday dressing.
Defining premium denim: For me, premium denim is something that is defined not by the price of one’s jeans, but rather by the values behind the brand and the platform it provides to be in service to the world. Without these elements, it becomes just another piece of clothing. For us at Citizens, we believe that premium denim begins with craftsmanship and a dedication to design and is firmly rooted in what we can do for the environment and the communities that surround us.
On L.A.: There’s something distinct about the way people dress on the West Coast. Jeans are often the mainstay of one’s closet and there is a real connection between style and culture. L.A. embodies this unique point of view because of the mild climate and the deeply creative spirit embedded in the city. I think this translates to markets outside of L.A. because it brings an effortlessness to everyday dressing that feels authentic and cool.
Jack Burns, design director, Agolde
On S/S ’25: We’re offering alternative fits for men. We want to go out to the guy who is a little more interested in something unusual. This season, we’re debuting a high-rise fit for men; I think guys are looking for something that’s a little more tailored or refined in the top block, and we love a wider, baggier fit in the legs. We [also] have some other pieces; the Fusion jean is the one I wear quite a bit. It’s very generous through the leg, more like a vintage Silver Tab look. And we’re expanding immensely into ready-to-wear.
On sustainability: We’re focusing on our regenerative cotton. We are partnering very closely with farmers in America and paying a premium for cotton that’s grown with regenerative practice, to build our own materials. Normally, the focus is on recycling or finishing, but this is literally from the ground up. For spring, regenerative is our focus with the denim line. Most of our base [fabrics] are regenerative, and we’re going to be transitioning, hopefully to 100 percent, in the next year or so.
On inspiration: I love shopping, and I have a really hard time finding clothes that I want to wear in the men’s market. So to me, it really started from a place of oh, these things don’t exist, and I need them to exist because I want to wear them. It was very personal. We do this in women’s as well—what can’t you find that you really need? You go out to any store and it’s like, ‘Oh my God, there’s so much stuff,’ and you feel guilty as a designer sometimes contributing to more stuff, so, for me, the inspiration was really, let’s create honest clothes…that people are going to wear for a very long time and really cherish, and what items can’t they buy from anyone else that they need?
On premium denim: [A lot of it is about] the fabric. We use fabric from Candiani and Kaihara. It must be good 3×1. We don’t like stretch denim. It must be rich; it must have a beautiful wash and feel really good. It must fit well and last a long time. I think people should be buying [fewer] clothes, so my mission in my career is to design clothes that have a lot of integrity, that are going to last for a long time and people won’t feel the need to replace them so rapidly.
On L.A.: L.A. exports so much of its culture already—every luxury brand in Europe wants to participate in L.A. There’s so much heritage in terms of the denim industry in L.A. We have our wash house there, which is incredible. It’s one of the most amazing facilities I’ve ever been to. We have our own factories, as well, in L.A. The garment industry in L.A. is really inspiring. As a New Yorker who moved there, I never thought of L.A. as a garment manufacturing hub, and when I finally did live and work in L.A., the garment industry there is so impressive—it’s so much more impressive than New York.
Elena Bonvicini founder and creative director, EB Denim
On S/S ’25: We have the Frederic Jean, which is this bowed-shaped horseshoe, and I wanted to expand upon that. So, we have a few new introductions of different barrel legs, more of our low-rise baggy jean, which has done so well for us. We are also introducing a fresh take on a flare. I wanted a palette cleanser, too, because a lot of what EB Denim has been is great novelty denim ideas. I wanted to start introducing more wearable pieces that a girl can put on and feel comfortable and cool and can elevate the look without being too overstated. It’s kind of like a palette cleanser, in a way, for us.
On sustainability: Sustainability is always in the back of my mind. It’s a tough balance between being a profitable and growing business, while also trying to be as sustainable as possible, while still offering customers a reasonable price point. All these things must come into consideration.
We have just recently moved our production to Artistic Milliners in Pakistan, and they check every single box of sustainability. It was a hard decision to move my production from L.A. because it’s right around the corner and I have visibility, but in terms of longevity of the business, I thought was a great long-term decision. I love that factory, and I love the people who work there, and I think they’re doing amazing things in sustainability and ethics in the industry.
On inspiration: EB Denim has a few great core silhouettes that I wanted to base this collection off. The whole theme of the collection is rooted in the TWA Hotel [at JFK airport]; that was the inspiration for the collection. I fell in love with the architecture and the curvature and the silhouettes and colors of everything. I also just intuitively think, what do I want to be wearing? Listening to my body, what feels good? What shapes and silhouettes are flattering on my body and designing into that.
On premium denim: ??I think it’s all about the quality of materials—the rivets, how intricate the washes look, the whiskers’ look, the integrity of the denim itself. Also, the fit is really important. All those things combined—plus design—create premium denim.
On L.A.: When you think of denim, you think of L.A., just because the culture here is so laid back. It’s so easy to throw on a pair of jeans and a T-shirt. You’re right next to the beach, and it’s [a lot of] cut off shorts and everything like that. It just breathes denim, so I definitely feel like there’s a lot of great influence and inspiration when it comes to the aesthetic of a pair of great jeans and a tank top or a T-shirt here.
Lucio Mauro, founder, Icon Denim LA
On S/S ’25: Our collection is a perfect blend of classic elegance and contemporary comfort. Our denim pieces in refined white are the highlight of the collection, enriched with vibrant yellow accessories that create a striking contrast. This collection captures the essence of a bygone era, recalling the elegance of the past while adapting it to the needs and tastes of modern fashion.
On sustainability: Sustainability is a cornerstone of our collections. We use eco-friendly materials and sustainable production methods to minimize our environmental impact. Additionally, we ensure fair labor practices throughout our supply chain, reinforcing our commitment to ethical fashion.
On inspiration: The inspiration for this collection came from a desire to blend timeless elegance with modern comfort. We looked to the sophistication of past decades and reinterpreted it for today’s fashion-forward consumers. Regularly, we draw inspiration from various sources, including art, culture and global fashion trends. By observing how people mix and match styles in everyday life, we ensure our designs remain relevant and inspiring.
On L.A.: LA’s vibrant culture and diverse fashion scene greatly influence our design choices. The city’s blend of laid-back and sophisticated styles inspires us to create pieces that reflect this unique vibe. Our designs translate well into global markets by offering adaptable pieces that can be styled for various occasions and climates, appealing to a broad audience.
On premium denim: For us, premium denim combines exceptional quality, timeless style and sustainable production. It involves producing items that stand the test of time. Premium denim should offer versatility and comfort, making it a staple in any wardrobe while being responsibly produced.
This article was published in Rivet’s Fall 2024 issue. Click here to read more.
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