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Sourcing Journal

NFW Looks to Shift Mirum Alt Leather Into ‘Large-Scale Production’

Chelsea Dobrosielski
2 min read

Materials company NFW unveiled plans Thursday to move its plant-based leather alternative Mirum into “large-scale production.”

The ramp-up comes thanks to the installation of double-belt press technology from the Swedish industrial processing company IPCO earlier this year. After “several” months of engineering and testing, the machinery went live at NFW’s facility in late May and has begun producing 1.6-meter-wide rolls of Mirum, IPCO said.

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“We were looking for a technology enabling large-scale production, to meet the demand we see in the market,” NFW CEO Luke Haverhals said in a statement. “IPCO’s double-belt press will enable us to scale up and meet the growing demand for sustainable materials. The machine is performing well, and we are delighted with the support from IPCO’s service center.”

Alongside the installation, the two companies entered into a partnership agreement in which IPCO will invest in NFW to support and accelerate the scale-up of Mirum production. NFW plans to use the funds to further expand production capacity, as well as explore new sustainable applications and materials.

“By investing in NFW’s future, we’re showing IPCO’s strong commitment to NFW’s scale-up and future success, and we can secure long-term opportunities in a growing and sustainable field,” IPCO CEO Robert Hermans said in a statement. “We see tremendous growth potential in segments and application areas linked to the green transformation.”

NFW’s Mirum leather alternative, still just a few years old, has gained support from a varied list of companies, including Levi’s, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney, Allbirds, H&M, Pangaia and car company BMW. A life cycle assessment of Mirum found it emits 10 times fewer greenhouse gas emissions than incumbent cowhide and pleather. NFW’s broader material portfolio also includes Clarus, a performance textile made with natural inputs like cotton, hemp and wool; Pliant, a natural rubber-based outsole; and Tunera, a “bio-neutral” plastic-free midsole foam.

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Earlier this year, NFW confirmed reports that it had laid off just under 10 percent of its workforce—fewer than 30 employees. The cuts included staff across all areas of business, from the C-suite to the factory floor. The company said the layoffs came from a desire to trim operations as it sought to scale up Mirum and other materials.

Competitor Bolt Threads notably stopped producing its Mylo leather alternative this summer when it ran into trouble getting additional funding.

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