Orta Adopts Leonardo DiCaprio-Backed Bio-Based Pigment for Denim
In its 70th year, Orta is thinking outside the box to close the loop.
The Turkish denim mill’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection includes Bio Awake, a denim dyed with BioBlack TX by Nature Coatings. The 100 percent bio-based, certified and carbon negative black pigment is a direct replacement for petroleum-based carbon black.
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Orta is using BioBlack TX for fabric coating and for warp dyeing—an industry first application. The mill launched at Kingpins Amsterdam in April.
BioBlack TX is made with pre-consumer industrial wood waste from FSC certified sources from the lumber, paper, furniture and flooring industries, which means the wood waste is traceable to a sustainably managed forest. The pigment is produced through a closed-loop, circular manufacturing system. The only by-product is steam, which is captured and used to power parts of the production facility.
The solution is free of fossil fuels and there are no detected PAHs and carcinogens in it, making it safe to touch and wear, Orta stated. There is no burning of the wood waste and no chemicals added in the manufacturing process.
Bio Awake advances Orta’s Bluesky mission to create denim that supports climate, planet and social justice. The mill said it “sees a golden opportunity” to lead the industry toward a new generation of waste-free, bio-designed denim.
“Now is the time to reimagine our design process based on regenerative principles. It is also a time for rapid collaborative action,” said Dr. Sedef Uncu Aki, who leads Orta’s denim sales and marketing, product development, R&D, planning and operations.
Nature Coatings recently secured $2.45 million in funding to expedite the adoption of BioBlack TX by expanding manufacturing capabilities, strengthening the senior team, and establishing a global distribution network. The investment round was led by Regeneration.VC and The 22 Fund, with participation from actor and environmentalist Leonardo DiCaprio, Safer Made, and Portfolia.
BioBlack TX recently saw one of its biggest launches with Levi’s. The pigment was used for floral prints in the Spring/Summer 2023 Levi’s WellThread collection. Jane Palmer, Nature Coatings CEO and founder, worked with Neil Bell, Levi’s director of material innovation, and Una Murphy, Levi’s director of design innovation, on the development for years.
BioBlack TX has also been used by the Kering Group, Bestseller’s Jack & Jones and Selected Homme.
Palmer has dedicated most of her career to developing more responsible pigment solutions. She previously owned Noon Design Studio, a Los Angeles-based natural and vegetable dye production house for apparel and home goods. Palmer has also taught sustainability in various fiber and textiles programs.
“Working in the pigment and dyes industry for over 15 years, I’ve seen the negative impact it has had on our environment and health. This inspired me to find a way to develop something better, something that is safe enough to be buried in my vegetable garden,” she said. “It’s great to see this collaboration come to life, Orta and Nature Coatings working together to make a positive impact.”
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