Oscar-worthy style; why formalwear is getting a shake down
I came of age in the 90s, at a time when Hollywood red carpet style meant a procession of apologetic actors in shiny suits. They were baggy, as was the cut and silhouette at the time, and uniform, often worn with questionable frameless sunglasses and boot-cut trousers. If it wasn’t a sack-like grey suit, it was the go-to tuxedo, starched, stiff and as standard issue from middle America prom nights as it was to the Oscars.
Which is why it was so refreshing to see some bold choices on the Oscars red carpet last Sunday, as part of a gradual trickle that’s seen more and more silver screen golden boys embrace something more unique and striking.
A great tuxedo is never going to go out of style, but a man has his whole life to wear a sleek dinner jacket and dressing up should be about enjoying it, not just looking appropriate, as Chadwick Boseman showed in his embroidered, jewel-encrusted coat from Givenchy instead of traditional black tie.
Giorgio Armani has long gone hand in hand with Academy Award style, but Armie Hammer’s plush velvet number from the house was a cut above. It’s rare to see a full suit in velvet, and can be a tricky double act as the fabric can look weighty and cumbersome, but Hammer’s is - as one would expect - neatly tailored and in a rich berry shade that also looks masculine.
Get Out star Daniel Kaluuya also looked pin sharp in Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli’s first foray into evening wear, a toffee shaded velvet tuxedo, while ingenue Timothee Chalamet looked pristine in all white, which sounds like novelty dressing but looked elegant.
And while most of us rarely get a chance to showcase a red-carpet ready look, such tweaks and nods to nonconformity are worth bearing in mind as we gear up for the spring regattas and summer weddings that require a degree of formality.
Theory bouclé coat, ￡945, Mrporter.com
So what tips can we take away? Firstly, depending on the situation, a great coat can be just as sharp as a good suit; one with a razor cut and an impactful detail, worn with a shirt can see you through a drinks party in panache; also handy when you’re eager to pop by and make a hasty exit.
Secondly, while I’m the first to exalt the showy joys of an evening slipper or patent oxford shoe, the evening boot - as shown on Shawn Mendes - is becoming 'A Thing'; worn with slightly cropped trousers, it looks more rugged and less ceremonial.
George Cleverly Toby leather boots, ￡495, Mrporter.com
And if you’re a stickler for a proper, upright, serious tuxedo, go ahead by all means, but consider tinkering with the format; James Marsden did so by pairing his cream jacket with a fresh, open necked white shirt in lieu of a bow tie, or Tom Holland, whose version was narrow and worn high on the lapels.
You might not be destined for Best Actor and Adam Rippon’s bondage tux from Moschino might be a touch much for the Rotary Club drinks, but it’s worth having a bit of fun with the old familiar after-dark formula every now and then.
