Overcoat RTW Fall 2022

With the Beijing Winter Olympics in full swing, it’s apropos that Overcoat designer Ryuhei Oomaru was inspired by winter sport uniforms for his fall collection. The designer, who has worked for major design houses in his career including Comme des Gar?ons and Donna Karan, has built his reputation on his skill as a patternmaker.

Look: Oomaru has become a master of creating new shapes in tailored pieces that drape and contour to different shoulder slopes.

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Key pieces: An overcoat with a darted dolman sleeve that allows for movement and a removable rib collar joins a new interpretation of both a motorcycle jacket and a puffer that also use dolman sleeves to modernize the look. Track pants have been updated by adding snaps along one seam, a double-breasted cardigan sports an exaggerated armhole and a button-down wool shirt is oversized and augmented with a hood. The collection also features the third iteration of art director Peter Miles’ handmade digital print that Oomaru used this time around on textured velvet pants, robes and a wrap blanket.

Takeaway: This sophisticated collection proves Oomaru hasn’t lost his touch when it comes to tailoring.

Launch Gallery: Overcoat RTW Fall 2022

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