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Sourcing Journal

How Panther is Diversifying Denim Beyond Cotton with Kapok and Circulose

SJ Studio
3 min read

The textile industry has dedicated significant energy and investment toward innovating new fibers. Despite these efforts, cotton continues to maintain its dominance in the denim world today. There is a lot to like about cotton—including aesthetics and feel—however, the industry is increasingly branching out beyond conventional cotton in search of more sustainable options.

One solution is organic cotton, which removes pesticides and chemical fertilizers from the cultivation process, but although organic is promising, today it represents less than 1 percent of global cotton production, leaving ample room for expansion.

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Textile mill Panther Denim is one of the industry players that has embarked on a quest for alternative materials. Rather than completely eliminating cotton, the manufacturer’s strategy is to use other fibers—particularly plant-based materials—as blending partners to bring enhanced sustainability benefits and performance to jeans.

As Panther Denim builds up its arsenal of eco-friendly fibers to battle climate change, its latest addition is kapok. This fiber (pronounced kay-paak) comes from the ceiba tree that grows in tropical and subtropical areas. A fully renewable resource, kapok grows inside pods on the tree, and harvesting these pods does not harm the tree or prevent it from growing more pods in the future.

Kapok is renowned for being hypoallergenic, anti-microbial and dust mite resistant, and is famously used for pillow filling. However, its utilization in the denim industry remains limited due to insufficient marketing and development. The lack of familiarity with kapok complicates its promotion to end consumers, in contrast to the ease with which “organic” resonates as eco-friendly.

The responsibility to raise kapok’s profile in jeans rests on the shoulders of denim producers, and Panther Denim has taken this on. Leveraging its knowledge and technology to champion new fibers, Panther is showcasing kapok extensively in its Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

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Specifically for denim, kapok boasts abundant natural benefits. It has a naturally hollow structure that makes it a thermal insulator, ensuring good air permeability, moisture-wicking properties and a lightweight feel. It is also softer, smoother and more lustrous than cotton. On the sustainability front, kapok grows rapidly without the need for toxins and chemicals. Its production process relies fundamentally on mechanical means, without any added chemicals, setting it apart from other regenerative fibers such as lyocell and rayon.

Kapok requires special care in spinning, weaving and dyeing. The fibers are shorter, requiring a blending partner in spinning to add strength. For instance, Panther mixed kapok with cotton for the weft yarn of its fabrics.

Looking ahead, kapok faces two main challenges: lack of awareness and costliness due to its relatively smaller scale of production. Yet, these drawbacks aren’t systematic, and Panther believes that those disadvantages will be faded out in the long term.

In addition to advancing its sustainable fiber innovations with kapok, Panther is ramping up circularity with its new membership in Renewcell’s Circulose supplier network. Circulose is a dissolving pulp made of textile waste, which can be used in the production of man-made cellulosic fibers like viscose and lyocell. “This remarkable fiber holds significant value in broadening our range of sustainable offerings,” explained Tim Huesemann, director at Panther Denim. “The introduction of cotton and Circulose blend fabrics will serve as a pivotal element in our efforts to diminish reliance on conventional cotton.”

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Supporting the denim industry, Panther Denim will continue to lead the charge in introducing fresh ideas and innovations. “We faithfully believe that diversification is the key of achieving sustainable development,” said Huesemann.

Click here to learn more about Panther Denim.

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