Pat McGrath's Makeup Looks at the Maison Margiela Show Are Like None We've Ever Seen Before

Gabrielle Ulubay

January 27, 2024 at 4:45 AM·2 min read

A model at the Maison Margiela SS24 show.

Pat McGrath has already reached living legend status. The innovative makeup artist has changed the face of beauty, employing unique, brightly colored techniques and eschewing brushes for her hands. For her work, she’s been deemed the most influential makeup artist in the world by Vogue, has been listed as one of TIME Magazine’s most influential people, and was named a Member of the Order of the British Empire (and is the first makeup artist to be included). Therefore, it comes as no surprise that her newest venture has made headlines and inspired other artists instantly—and it dropped during the Maison Margiela show at Paris Fashion Week.

Inspired by the concept of fashion as a ritual and physical expression of human emotion, the Margiela show sought to experiment with texture, silhouette, and presentation. In that vein, McGrath crafted showstopping looks for the runway inspired by the ultra-shiny finish of porcelain and the recent trend of porcelain, or glass, skin. To achieve the look, McGrath bleached the models’ eyebrows and then drew razor-thin arches along the brow bones using neutral eyeshadows. The eyes themselves were colored in striking jewel tones, gentle pastels, and dark charcoals.

When it comes to the face, McGrath employed her signature commitment to injecting lively color into the cheeks. Her popular cream blush was applied to the center of the cheeks in order to mimic the red-pink blush of old-fashioned porcelain dolls. The lips contrasted this look of innocence, however, and were dyed deep, moody shades like blood red and black.

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Every inch of the look—from the eyes to the lips to the skin itself—was then coated in glosses and glazes, with an end result that made the models look uncannily like porcelain dolls. It was an innovative, history-making look that contrasted the textured Margiela fashion, and it gave every model a unique appearance that enhanced each look and made the show a more whole, complete world. It was also a much-needed departure from the spare, fresh-faced looks typically worn on runways.

While McGrath’s masterpiece look isn’t necessarily intended for day to day wear, the products she used are all from her own brand. If you, too, are inspired by the incredible looks seen in Paris today, check out the products she used to create them. Each one is available now online or at your favorite beauty store.