What Is Pre-Pooing? Everything You Need to Know, According to Hairstylists
Reviewed by Nigella Miller
If you're all about keeping your hair easy to manage and as soft as possible, you've likely heard the term "pre-poo" thrown around. Heat damage, chemical treatments, environmental factors, and haircare or lifestyle practices can lead to dry, damaged, or brittle hair, which may require more than just shampooing and conditioning to treat. In that case, the products you use before shampooing—known as the abbreviation of pre-shampoo, pre-poo—to prep your hair are crucial.
With leave-in conditioners and masks being all the rage, it may feel strange to apply a product only to wash it out with shampoo, but this extra step can make a huge difference in the health and styling of your hair. Whether you choose to pre-poo with a mask, oil, or scrub, the aim is to use a product formulated for your specific hair needs. We spoke with haircare experts Nigella Miller, Faith Huffnagle, and Niani B. to find out why adding a pre-poo to your wash day routine can be beneficial, as well as what ingredients to look for.
Ahead, find everything you need to know about maximizing your pre-poo regimen to reach your hair goals.
Meet The Experts
Nigella Miller is a New York City-based hair and grooming expert.
Faith Armstrong is an NYS-licensed cosmetologist and the director of global education at Pureology, Mizani, and L’Oréal.
Niani B. is a licensed cosmetologist, natural hairstylist, and founder of Beaute Anthologie.
What Are the Benefits of Pre-Pooing?
The main benefit of a pre-poo is to keep your hair protected and hydrated during your cleansing routine. "A pre-shampoo mask is a great addition to anyone’s wash routine," says Huffnagle, especially those with curly, natural, or damaged hair.
Niani B. agrees that pre-poo treatments are beneficial, especially for detangling pre-cleanse. "I typically pre-poo if the hair is extremely tangled or has been in a protective style for more than a few days," she says. "Pre-pooing and detangling together can help remove excessive tangles, which, without the pre-poo, would only get worse when you shampoo. It can also help to remove shed hair that has accumulated if you have been wearing a no manipulation style for over a few days like twist, box braids, crochet braids, etc."
How Do You Pre-Poo?
Pre-pooing tends to fall into categories based on your hair's needs, with the main two being hydration and clarifying.
If your hair seeks moisture, Huffnagle recommends looking for ingredients with hyaluronic acid, castor seed oil, and plant collagen to help moisturize, nourish, and repair your hair. Using these ingredients before shampooing will protect your hair from drying out during cleansing.
If you notice product buildup in your hair, refresh your scalp with a pre-poo clarifying treatment such as a scalp scrub, hair detoxes, or ACV rinse. This step will give your scalp and strands a deeper cleanse before using shampoo and conditioner.
Once you've chosen a pre-poo, start the pre-pooing process the day or a few hours before you wash your hair. Miller says the pre-poo product needs to sit in your hair "long enough so that your hair follicles can retain the moisture."
To apply, Miller says the best method is to "Take your hair down finger comb and divide it into a few sections and saturate your hair from root to ends with your pre-poo. Then, follow with shampoo to make sure all product is rinsed out. Next, [apply] a deep conditioner and conditioner."
How Often Should You Pre-Poo?
Moisturizing pre-poos can be done every single time you wash your hair, but clarifying pre-poos should be limited to a maximum of once a week so you do not over-strip your hair of hydration.
The Best Types of Pre-Poo
The formulation of the pre-poo you use will vary depending on your hair's needs. Finding the right option for your hair isn't a one-size-fits-all task, so it may take some trial and error. Below, check out the best pre-poo treatments for natural hair, according to the experts.
Coconut Oil
Using it while it's in a liquid form makes it easier to apply as a pre-poo. However, hardened coconut oil still has its beneficial properties, which include great moisturization. The small amount of protein in it makes it ideal for women who need a mild boost without overdoing it.
Olive Oil
Another natural favorite, olive oil works well as a great pre-poo treatment. A heavy oil, this one is perfect for anyone who wants a big moisture boost. Look for extra-virgin varieties that are cold-pressed and retain more of the beneficial properties of olives.
Food Mixes
It's easy to find pre-poo treatments in your own home when you have honey, mayonnaise, bananas, or yogurt in the kitchen. Many women who don't mind mixing it up try food treats. Honey is a natural humectant, so it helps your tresses hold onto moisture, while bananas add softening properties. Yogurt is touted for strengthening locks, while mayo adds plenty of moisture.
When using food as a pre-shampoo treat, only mix up as much as you'll use right then; it won't keep as long as commercial products. Also, avoiding heat with food-based treatments is best, especially when using eggs. You don't want the ingredients to spoil or cook.
Protein
If your tresses are brittle or feel lifeless, they may need an infusion of protein. Check any products you purchase to avoid buying those that work better post-shampoo. While some prefer an organic, DIY pre-poo containing eggs or coconut milk, others prefer commercial products containing protein.
Byrdie Tip
Pre-poos are often left on for hours or even overnight, but leaving a protein-based treatment on for this long may lead to dryness. Protein pre-shampoo treats should be left on for a maximum of one hour.
Conditioner/Oil Mix
Using conditioner after shampooing is routine, but did you know you can also use your regular conditioner as a pre-poo? Apply it alone on dry hair or mix it with any of the oils listed here; you have plenty of other options, such as grapeseed, jojoba, and neem.
Castor Oil
Besides the popular Jamaican Black Castor Oil (or JBCO, as it's commonly known in hair growth circles), plain castor oil works equally well as a pre-shampoo treatment. It's very thick, so it's better for dense hair types or anyone wanting the extra slip to her hair. This oil may be too heavy for finer hair textures.
Mango Butter
Though not as popular as some other treatments, mango butter is nonetheless worth trying. Like shea butter, this one is extremely thick in its natural state, but you can quickly melt it in the microwave or double-boiler. Once melted into a liquid, mango butter is simple to apply. It's a very rich treatment full of emollients and vitamins like A and E and is a good product for women who want a fatty-rich oil.
Avocado Oil
For naturals with low porosity hair, some oils, like coconut oil, don't work for your hair type. Try avocado oil as a pre-poo treatment for your scalp and hair. Avocado oil may penetrate the hair shaft to help reduce breakage and repair split ends.
Bentonite Clay
For those who use heavy styling products, a clarifying pre-poo mask can be just what your hair needs. If you're worried about moisture loss in your coils, add cleansing bentonite clay to your chosen oil to your mixture.
Jojoba Oil
If you're prone to dandruff or scalp inflammation, jojoba oil is one to add to your haircare routine. Because of its anti-fungal properties, your hair will get the moisture it craves while calming your scalp.
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