PSA: Gluconolactone Is the Trendy New Acid for Sensitive Skin
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Hi and welcome to your masterclass on all things gluconolactone. This tongue-twisting acid is arguably the buzziest skincare ingredient of 2022, and it also happens to be my personal favorite face exfoliator at the moment, thanks to its ability to be both effective at smoothing and brightening skin, while also being surprisingly gentle (a combo you don't see everyday in the skincare world). Basically, gluconolactone is definitely a skincare ingredient that should be on your radar, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Ahead, everything you need to know about gluconolactone for skin, including how it works, the benefits of incorporating it into your skincare routine, and all the best products to try it in right now.
Meet the experts:
Shari Marchbein, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Dr. Shari Marchbein in New York, NY, who specializes in cosmetic and medical dermatology. Dr. Marchbein is also a clinical assistant professor at NYU Langone in New York city.
Howard Sobel, MD, is a board-certified dermatologic surgeon at Sobel Skin in New York, NY, and also the founder of award-winning skincare brand Sobel Skin Rx.
Melissa Doft, MD, is a board-certified plastic surgeon at Doft Plastic Surgery in New York, NY, who specializes in cosmetic and reconstructive treatments.
What is gluconolactone?
Gluconolactone is one of the most common PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) used in skincare, says dermatologist Howard Sobel, MD. It works similarly to AHAs and BHAs (like glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids) by dissolving the glue that holds together dead skin cells. The primary difference is that gluconolactone has a large molecule size, so it can't penetrate your skin deeply—which means it's way less irritating than traditional skin acids.
"With gluconolactone, you get a gentler, more superficial level of exfoliation, which is actually a good thing if you have sensitive skin," says dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD, who adds that even though glycolic acid and salicylic acid penetrate skin deeper for greater efficacy, they can sometimes be unpredictable and too harsh for sensitive skin types.
What are the benefits of gluconolactone for skin?
Gluconolactone's list of glow-boosting benefits is a long one—and that's a great thing. "By removing dead cells on the skin's surface, gluconolactone can help improve skin texture and fade the look of dark spots and marks, resulting in a brighter, more even skin tone," says Dr. Sobel.
Gluconolactone is also a humectant, which means it draws water molecules to the skin for increased hydration and a healthier skin barrier, says dermatologist Melissa Doft, MD. "There's even some research that suggests gluconolactone functions like an antioxidant by binding to free radicals and preventing oxidative damage in the skin." All good things if you're looking to minimize the look of fine lines, redness, and discoloration.
How do I use gluconolactone?
Initially, you'll want to use gluconolactone one or twice a week, see how your skin tolerates it, and then increase frequency as needed. Depending on the type of product and the concentration of gluconolactone used in the formula, you may even be able to use the ingredient daily—either in the morning, at night, or both. For best results, follow the directions on the label and if you notice anything weird going on with your skin (burning, stinging, itching, flaking), stop using it immediately.
In terms of products, you'll find gluconolactone in everything from face washes to moisturizers. If you have suuuuper sensitive skin, start using gluconolactone in a rinse-off product (less time on skin = less likelihood of irritation), but if your skin is "normal" or already used to exfoliating acids, you can try a leave-on product, like a serum or cream.
No matter what kind of gluconolactone product you choose, always, always, always protect your skin with sunscreen that contains SPF 30 or more during the day, says Dr. Sobel. Acids can increase photosensitivity, and the last thing you want is to put your skin at risk for sun damage.
Are there side effects to using gluconolactone?
Every expert I've spoken to about gluconolactone agrees that the best thing about the ingredient is that it has little-to-no negative side effects on skin. When used properly, there's a minimal chance of redness, irritation, or flaking. That said, gluconolactone is still an exfoliating acid, so if you have a skin condition (like rosacea, eczema, or dermatitis) where your barrier is compromised, you should proceed with caution and talk to your doctor before incorporating gluconolactone into your skincare routine.
The takeaway:
Gluconolactone is one of the few exfoliators out there that can be used by just about anyone—even people with easily irritated skin. Plus, it plays nice with most actives—including vitamin C, niacinamide, and peptides—so it's easy to work into your existing skincare routine.
"Even retinoids users can incorporate gluconolactone into their routine on nights that they're not using their retinoid," says Dr. Marchbein. Bottom line: If you're looking to improve your skin tone and texture without sending your skin into a tailspin, gluconolactone is 100 percent worth trying.
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