A restaurant critic's goodbye: It's been 18 years, have I made you love me yet?
I've spent the last two months thinking about this farewell. Trying to come up with something deep and meaningful, something to tug at your heartstrings, make you like me, make you love me.
Now, it's 9:23 a.m. on my last official day at this job. I have three middle-school boys passed out around the house after an all-night rager fueled by Takis and Fortnite. I have a 9-year-old slipping into the second and final hour of her iPad time, a spouse waiting on me to fill out tax paperwork, a mother who left her diabetic supplies at my house last night and who has texted me no fewer than nine times asking when I'll drop them off.
Every one of these things is a privilege. These privileges can also be exhausting.
When people ask why I'm leaving arguably the cushiest gig in journalism (You're a food critic!! You eat for a living! What's not to love?!), I like to blame the book. I am writing a book. That book, "The Mango Tree: A Memoir of Fruit, Florida, and Felony," will come out in spring 2024 from the brilliant team at Little, Brown and Company. I feel morally obligated to namedrop said book every 12 minutes. I am a joy at parties.
The book (maybe I mentioned it, "The Mango Tree," it's called) is a convenient scapegoat. It sounds prestigious, noteworthy even. It is hard to write a book. Believe me. I know. But the book is only part of the story. Much of the rest is outlined above.
I am a mother in the sandwich generation of life. And that does not mean what I hoped. I hoped for BLTs and banh mi and hot pastrami on rye. I got needy kids and needy parents (I know, I know, these are privileges!). I got U.S. systems of education and healthcare that are crumbling. I got soccer and gymnastics practices, endocrinologist appointments and prescription refills and a Medicare open-enrollment period that was thankfully extended due to Hurricanes Ian and Nicole. Speaking of which, I've got to reach out to the roof inspector, too.
More food:Fort Myers' best restaurants: Our critic shares 6 favorites around the City of Palms
Dining reviewChew (gently) on this: 5 comfort-food dishes in Fort Myers, Cape Coral — JLB
I am leaving because I need one less thing on my to-do list. Because in October The News-Press's parent company, Gannett, offered a buyout deal I couldn't pass up. Because, while I love this job, it is not as cushy as it seems. Journalists, yes, even the food writers, have been forced to do more with less for decades. What's the opposite of cushy? Hard. Unyielding. Painful. That is what far too much of journalism has become.
When I walked into this newsroom in 2005 as a failed med-school applicant turned wannabe chef/caterer, I hoped to get a few lunch gigs out of it. I did. I also got a job as an agate clerk on the sports desk. After a few years and a handful of awards, I parlayed that into a food-writing position and a spot as our pseudonymous restaurant critic, Jean Le Boeuf. I reviewed restaurants for a living, and I relished every bite. I shed the pen name in 2021 to review restaurants as my half-Filipina, minivan-driving self.
And now, I'm writing a book. (Has it been 12 minutes?)
I will miss the restaurant reviews. The reader emails. Getting to dine on The News-Press's dime and then write honestly about my experiences. I will miss my colleagues who work diligently and thanklessly to ensure our local officials are held accountable, to try and shore up these crumbling systems as only good journalism can. I like to think my fluffy work helped support their vitally important work. I will miss that, too.
From 2021:Fort Myers and Naples restaurant reviews: After 41 years, we're unveiling JLB
I am leaving because I'm tired. Because I can finally afford to. Because I need a break.
I am leaving because, after 18 years, I have learned to value my writing — and myself.
But if anyone asks, we'll just say it's because I'm writing a book. That's a far simpler answer. It's not like I'm going anywhere. If you need me, I'll be right here, dabbing Taki dust from the couch, wrestling the iPad from my daughter, Googling "SEP-IRA" again, bribing my son to get on his bike and take these vials of Novolog to his lola's.
Have I made you love me yet?
If so, wow, have I got the perfect book for you.
Annabelle Tometich spent 18 years as a staff writer for The News-Press. Keep up with her work (and her damn book) at annabelleTM.com; sign up for her personal newsletter thehalffilip.substack.com.
This article originally appeared on Fort Myers News-Press: Fort Myers Naples restaurant critic says goodbye, writes a book