Restaurant review: 63 Corks in Strasburg shines

STRASBURG ? Tucked away inconspicuously along 9185 U.S. 250 NW in Strasburg sits 63 Corks, a culinary gem that's easy to overlook but so worth discovering.

Since its establishment in December 2022, this restaurant has been quietly delighting patrons with its farm-to-fork ethos and innovative dishes.

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If you’re not familiar with the farm-to-fork concept (often referred to simply as farm-to-table), it is a social movement that promotes serving local food sourced from local producers.

I made reservations and brought two friends along to enjoy and share the experience. Our lively and engaging server, Karen, told us she has been with the restaurant since its opening. It was a Thursday evening, and while the restaurant was busy, it was relaxed.

Seated near the kitchen, I got to observe the craftsmanship behind each dish. Led by owner and chef Nate Kelly, along with chefs Brandon and Tristan, the kitchen bustled with precision and cleanliness even during peak hours. As each dish was finished and removed by the servers, the stainless counters were immediately wiped clean. It was impressive.

Food is cooked to order, giving you the opportunity to savor the experience. After placing our drink order, we shared the bread service consisting of house-made focaccia bread, some out-of-this-world whipped ricotta, cultured butter and fermented strawberry jam ($8). The focaccia was served hot and sliced. I’m still dreaming about that whipped ricotta.

My order of Appalachian Crab Cakes ($18) consisted of lump blue crab cakes atop fried green tomatoes with an asparagus and rhubarb slaw and smoked trout roe butter.

The Goat Cheese Fritters ($14) we shared did not skimp on the goat cheese and were served with a pepper aioli, aged Parmesan and a ramp pesto.

Vickie’s Ohio Spring Caprese ($11 half or $15 full), arrived with a selection of Ohio pickled morels, asparagus, roasted beets, that heavenly whipped ricotta and toasted pine nuts. We were intrigued by the wisps of something crisp atop the salad. Although they appeared to be cracker strips, they were actually crisped slices of squash. Half was a generous portion for the salad.

It’s worth noting that you could easily dine at 63 Corks and stop with what we had already enjoyed and be satisfied. However, since I am loyal to my readers, I had an obligation to try more delicious bites.

We each had a different entrée in mind. The Amish Chicken Francese ($29), pan roasted Amish chicken breast, gnocchi, asparagus, morels and oven-dried tomatoes was one of the choices. So much of this dish was local – the chicken, the asparagus, the morels. The flavor profile (squash) of the gnocchi was not Vickie's favorite, but otherwise she enjoyed the entree.

Ramp Pappardelle ($29) highlighted the season with foraged wild ramps, fennel garlic wild boar sausage, English peas, pickled morels, crispy leeks and more. I jokingly asked our server if chef had caught the wild boar on his way to work.

Because I love house-made pasta, I chose the agnolotti and jumbo shrimp ($32) that included oven-dried yellow tomatoes, gorgonzola vodka cream and a collard green pesto. It was rich and filling; I took half of it home for lunch the next day.

We were our usual boisterous selves as we dined, constantly commenting and dissecting the dishes, and began to engage with a delightful couple sitting across from us. Celebrating their ninth anniversary were Janesa and Derek Surbee of Perry Township.

We compared notes on the crab cakes (they loved them too). For their entrées, Derek ordered the veal chop and Janesa had the prime rib. Between bites, we raised our glasses to celebrate their anniversary, wishing them continued years of happiness.

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On to dessert, where, again, it's an obligation. The strawberry shortcake bread pudding ($12), strawberry shortcake and brioche with strawberries baked in French vanilla custard and topped with limoncello ice cream was tasty but fell short on strawberries. Joe’s donuts & cheese ($10), sweet brown sugar and ricotta doughnuts served with lemon curd, strawberry curd and drizzled with a bourbon caramel were light but filling.

It was my smoked s’mores ($11), however, that stole the spotlight. Served smoking and encased in glass with two shots of hot white chocolate on the side, it was a rich dark chocolate cake wedge with layered fudge and chocolate crumble and topped with chocolate mousse, toasted marshmallow and bourbon caramel. I ate half, and secretly finished the remainder when I arrived home.

For those that enjoy a chef’s table-type experience, there are a few counter seats available that look into the kitchen. Reservations for all seatings are highly recommended, as seating is limited.

There is something for everyone on the menu, including several gluten free options. Butcher-block cuts of steaks include a 14-ounce Ohio strip steak ($43) or an 8-ounce filet mignon ($47) and are accompanied with a choice of side, vegetable and one sauce. Pork chops, Ohio walleye, barbecue duck breast, venison meatballs and scallops round out the entrée menu, all available at various price points.

Care and time are taken on all the dishes. Although you could spend a significant amount enjoying the 63 Corks experience, you don’t need to order everything. Spend an evening and just enjoy an appetizer and dessert or those venison meatballs you’ve wanted to try. It’s a thoughtful concept, executed with delicious offerings.

Reach Bev at [email protected] or 330-580-8318.

If you go

WHAT – 63 Corks

WHERE – 9185 U.S. 250 NW in Strasburg

PHONE – 330-878-4050

HOURS – 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday

This article originally appeared on The Repository: 63 Corks in Strasburg delivers quality course after course